So installed my Nardi Wheels with boss hub a couple days ago. Drove it around and it's great. But it's been a few days of daily driving and I'm hearing a scratching/scrapping sounds when I turn. I'm not exactly sure what it is. The wheel will go to full lock, the steering feels the same. I was wondering if a part needed greased (There was a little packet of it in the hub box, but since everything was in Japanese I wasn't sure what it was for. >_> ) It's mostly just annoying, cause everything seems fine.

Any thoughts or suggestion are apperciated.

 

Probably scraping the plastic steering hub surround...only guessing though as you never mentioned if it is inside or outside the car.
The stock plastic that holds the key and such has a lip on it,facing the driver,sometimes that needs to be shaved in order to run a Aftermarket steering wheel hub.

 

Hm I didn't have any problems when I installed it originally. It kinda started happening the other day. It's just inside the car.

 

i have the same prob in my car, dave is right its scrapping on the steering column cover mainly when i turn left lol.

 

Could also be the spring loaded horn contact on the hub's slipring...that was what the grease was for anyway.

 

I think this is what is, cause I have no problem with fitment. So does the grease go around the horn spring, on the hub or something else? My horn was also going off if I bumped it so I think the spring may have been sticking.

I lost the grease, anything I can substitute it with?


Also I tried to remove the hub, and its really stuck on there.

 

The grease goes on the slipring (round brass ring on the bottom of the hub...faces the wheel position sensor when installed).
It's possible that the new adaptor hub is seating further on the column and tensioning the horn contact too much. Hence the noise.

It's easy (if slightly tedious) to see what's happening.
Remove the column surround trim, reinstall the stock wheel.
Measure how far the horn contact is compressed.
Swap in new wheel/hub and repeat measurement.

Make sure the contact isn't coil binding on it's spring.
If it is...
Remove hub, manually depress the contact.
On the back you see a little c-clip, that's what holds it together.
Remove the clip and the electrical connector (just slides on the end) and the contact can be pulled out the front.

Try not to lose the clever little c-clip, it's a wily devil.

Springs from ball point pens can be used to make adjustments to length/strength.

You want the pin to make contact with the slipring for the full 360° of rotation but under as little tension as possible while doing so.

Leave the trim plastic off for the test drive.
This will allow any squeaks from the contact to be more easily heard and also eliminate plastic>hub contact as a suspect.
If all is well, reinstall plastic, go watch Archer.

 

Well I had another problem last night were the Horn would go off on it's own! I think the spring may have just been rubbing on the hub and then eventually getting stuck in place. Any suggestions to fix this or should what you posted earlier do the trick? I was also thinking about greasing the spring, what could I use since I don't have the packet they gave me?

 

I'm not sure which spring you're referring to.
The spring in the horn button maybe?

 

Well I pulled the horn button out and it was still going off so im assuming it was the contact spring

 

So i greased up the brass part, no more scratching or random horn turning on. I think the contact in the button is stuck. Time to look for a new button

 

The horn button has a single wire. It could be grounding itself off on the steering wheel frame. Make sure the wire for the horn button (on the aftermarket hub itself) is bent out of the way and in the appropriate "position" for the horn.