So who here races any type of solo races and what do you have done to your car? I just got my SCCA membership this year and and going to rebuild my ReX as a solo car. I've got the rule book, but I dont know what class to run in. I dont think I'd be competetive in anything more than stock, but I want my car as light and fast as I can get it in that class.
P.S....I'd prefer N/A setups, seeing as that's what I've got.

 

I am going to tell what you need to do. However, nobody ever believes this.

You do not need to "Prepare" your car for soloII racing. Just make sure all the tune up stuff is done and the car is running in tip top shape. For example...if you put $1500 in mods to your car -or- $1500 in driver training...what do you think would would result in faster times? It probally would not be the mods.

Everytime you change something on your car it will take FOREVER to get used to the change. Remeber, in autox you will be getting about 4 minutes of track time every month. You want to focus on the driver (That is what autox is about).

IF you don't believe me you do your runs at your first Solo II event. Then, if there are any fun runs at the end of the day ask the guy that got the fastest times of the day to run your car. You will be like WOW I didnt know my car was that fast!

So you have to ask your self. Do you want your car to look like it goes fast (extensive mods) or do you want it to go fast (trained driver).

Hope that helps

James

 

I picked up my RX-7 this last January for the sole purpose of being an SCCA SOLO II car 85% of the time.

It's hard to do anything for these cars and stay in stock class. If you want to stay in stock class, best thing you can do is get some good street tires like Falkens (205/50/15) and new shocks. Replace the brake pads and get your rotors done. You can upgrade your air filter to something like a K&N too. That right there is more than enough to keep you pretty compeditive and build your skill. The key upgrades in stock class are tires, shocks, and brakes. Spend your money well here.

I would race stock class for a couple events and get some feel of the vehicle. You don't want to jump into a much harder class to early. You want to build the car as you build your skill.

I just did the exhaust system on my car that took me to Street Prepared -- oops. Don't follow my lead. I race at a small SCCA where we have our own classing system.

 

Oh, what class. I would stay stock on your car. You will have more competition. If you go nuts on your car (ie porting, coilovers, engine managment) you will be competing with money and experience that is probally over your head. IE no competion.

James

 

I totally agree with Wankel7. Gotta work on the nut behind the wheel. For example, instead of spending money on sway bars, I am spending it on a driving program I am taking this weekend.

Be sure to have that vehicle in excellent condition too. Good compression, good brakes, excellent suspension, and ignition/fuel delivery. And a good ole alignment.

Aside from that damn exhaust system, my only other modifications is an airfilter, new fuel filter, spark plugs, plug wires, alignment, Hawk HP+ pads, and two quick changes of oil.

 

And some Zaino! So at least if I am comin' in last, I'll look good doing it

 

Yeah now! Gotta look good at Autox

James

 

well the way i set up my car is maxed out all allowed mods in b stock, i own a turbo II. i'm still working on getting brake pads, racing brake fluid, and front stab. bar. after im done getting those, during the summer i will be attending as much driving schools as i can afford and we'll be moving into SP this fall to be more competitive. being classed with 350z's and s2000's stock isn't that much fun . but auto-x is more set up on skill more than power.

before you race the car make sure you bring everything back to stock specs or make it act how it's suppose to. change all fluids, and check other parts for wear. that way you have a benchmark before you start going crazy, although i do believe why bring it back to stock if theres a better part out there.

-steven

 

One thing too that might be a good idea. Have a little money left over in a you cant touch it fund. Autox IS hard on your and things WILL break. Autox is probally harder than road racing. So many hard turns in rapid order. Many harsh and rapid inputs.

So have a little money aside to fix something so you won't be out for a whole season.

James

 

SLUSHBOX!

 

Thanks guys...that's a lot of great advice. I think the car will be kept as a pure...race only car..sadly. I've got to rebuild the engine soon, so most of my $$$ is going for that. What shocks and brake pads would you guys recommend? I was at Discount tire the other day and saw a set of BF Goodrichs that I really liked. I'm also getting around to doing a 5-lug conversion soon with TII calipers and rotors, so pad recomendations for that would be great.
I'm going to try and get to as many schools as I can this summer, but with my work schedule it'll be tough. If anyone is in the Chicago area, shoot me a pm is you're gonna go to one.

 

For pads, get the Hawk HP+, I just used them to make hard stops at 110 at a track, I love them.

 

Koni Yellows are sweet. I have them on my TII. I really like the struts. If you hear the install is tough don't shy away from that great strut. I have a write up on my webpage to walk you though.

http://pws.gamewood.net/~mb800

go to the bottom and float to the 91 rx7 section

James

 

dont make my mistake of changing to aftermarket springs while you are changing out the shocks if you do you WONT be in stock class any more.

but when i did that i wasnt really looking at auto crossing i was more looking at my suspension what beat to hell and back and they needed replaced

 

xplikt
what are the names of thoes rims thats what i have, and all ya gotta rember is take the conors wide then into the center clicp it close then let it pull out to the side do it some and itll result in faster times less brake wear and less g's into a conor, Trust me thats what i learned!

 

That does suck you can't change the springs. However, you could try to find some lowmilage stock springs. Put those in there to help out if yours are sagging at all.

James