My safety belt light is comming on and off intermitently when driving. I am the only one in the car and I wear my belt. I don't know what to search for so I just descided to post this. It will flicker, phase in and out, and other various ways of lighting up and turning off. :/

Any ideas as to what is wrong/defective/broken will be greatly appreciated.

Santiago

 

Sounds like the cpu (located on the drivers side kick panel) has some bad solder joints. It a little black retangular box. Are any of your other warning lights working?

 

All the other lights work. E-brake, fuel, hatch, door, etc The only one I haven't seen work in a while is the exhaust overheat light but that is not supposed to light up normally.

I have wanted to do the joints in the CPU but I am lazy and bussy :/ I gues I will take parts car's CPU and swap it in
see what happens.

 

CPU won't have any influence of the seat light bulb for a S4.

 

oh well, learn something new everyday!

 

any ideas mark? I don't want to be riding unsafe in my Sport man. this crap sucks BIG nutZZ lol my 4 cylinder is out for the count and not looking good and my sport needs seat belts or what have you. the only thing good happening is the dyno.

Oh well.

Pleas you all if you know what or how to check what is wrong help me out here.

 

Santiago, it's the Idiot Guage cluster. Mine does the same exact thing.. every once in a while. I'll go over a bump and the light will come on for a while. than go away. Either resolder the idiot guage cluster, or buy a "good used"

P.S, and yes, i do use my saftey belt

-Markus

 

I have already resoldered it. I removed the old solder and re-soldered with rosin core solder. : /

 

I have the same problem on my S4. Both idiot cluster and CPU have been resoldered. Still does it.

Dan

 

I did this.

Remove the light bulb.

Fixed

James

 

Idiot light cluster is where I would check first (remember when you re-solder you must remove the old solder first, then flow new solder in- you can not just flow new solder onto the joint and expect it to work)

but then I would pull the seat and check the wiring at the seat belt plug.

Kinda an easy way to see if it is the switch though is to see if the seat belt buzzer is coming on. If it is, then the problem is probably the switch... if it doesn't then the problem is probably the idiot light panel.

 

My stupid seat light does that too... Too bad I can't solder.

 

when does this buzzer come on? I don't think i have heard it. : /

 

Should hear the buzzer if the key is first turned on, and the seat belt is not plugged in.

 

mine stays on always....even when the car is off and the key is out of the ignition it will stay dimmly lit for hours ...

 

The only noise that I hear when in the car is when I open the door ant the key is still in the ignition.

Is this buzzer in the CPU?

 

That's not good...This could be a sign of a nasty short (fire waiting to happen). First, resolder your idiot cluster. Then verify the harness going ot it is not damaged. If things look OK, it's time to bust out the multimeter and trace back the wire to the seatbelt light (check the Haynes manual).

 

There are two circular sensors that are inside the plastic part of the seatbelt cluster located under the center console. What happends is over time these circular sensors wear down and it thinks your seatbelt is not pulled out to be worn. What you can do is disconnect the electrical connector that goes into this seatbelt cluster and create a jumper wire into the other plug so the car always thinks the seatbelt is pulled out. This will get rid of any beeps and the seatbelt light will stop coming on. The seatbelt light will stay on for a few seconds when you initially start your car but then quickly turn off.