SAFC, anything I should set it as for initial startup?
#1
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SAFC, anything I should set it as for initial startup?
I will be fireing my car up probally tommorow morning, does anyone have suggestions on initial settings?
#2
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I really have no idea, but setting it on full rich all across the board would seem like the safest way to do it. Then you could just work your way down. Or maybe not ...
:p
:p
#3
You don't need to set it full rich. The digital S-AFC has correction for 50% +or- right now I have stock injectors and stock pump and am running 10psi, The max I have the S-AFC corrected is to 11%, if you correct for too much fuel you could see 100% duty on your injectors and locking them might be a reality.
#4
Rotary Freak
hey
I have one on my N/A. 06in 06out. Rising rate. 4cyl. Im taking mine off until i find someone who knows how to tune them. Trust me. Untill u find someone that will tune it and who knows what their doing. Ur going to be disapointed. For me its just some pretty lookin blue thing. Tuning cost 200-300 bucks but the shop is too far right now to go to.
#5
Haven't we ALL heard this
Von, you really don't have to take it off. Just set it to zero on everything. At least that way you can enjoy looking at the pretty blue thing
Some dude at the gas station asked if it was for my stereo. I said no. Then explained it to him. I think he may still be there....standing...confused.
James
Some dude at the gas station asked if it was for my stereo. I said no. Then explained it to him. I think he may still be there....standing...confused.
James
#6
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this is what i've done....
i need some advice too!
i have a 88 TII with:
rb turbo back exh.
bonez intake
aluminum 12lb f/w
jacob's ign.
safc
performance f/p
fcd
i got my safc set at -10 at 1000rpm. i did this cause at idle she runs rich, seems to work fine. i got the throttle point set as follows
LO - 98
HI - 99
but this is cause i got the series 4 tps, if your is 89 or up then you are straight cause its full range. should make a world of difference. you can set like LO=60/HI=80.
the power range is like 4000 rpm and up so richen up there.
i got mine like this:
4000 - +5
5000 - +7
and so on by 2 points
my car pulls very strong aslo in the high end, i took her to 150 mph and had no problem.
since TII's tend to run rich when the air paths are opened up, i advise you to lean out on your low map, but not by much cause this can be dangerous. its kinda like a test and tune thing.
mine is like this:
1000 - -10
2000 - -5
3000 - -3
4000 - 0
this how i got mine set up, but all cars are different according to their mods. so be patient and dont mess with it while driving dude.
one more thing, if you have the car running dont change any of the sensor settings cause you will f**k somethin up.
hope it works out good for you and you get to whip on some vettes and stangs!!! lol
anybody else has some input on this topic???????
i have a 88 TII with:
rb turbo back exh.
bonez intake
aluminum 12lb f/w
jacob's ign.
safc
performance f/p
fcd
i got my safc set at -10 at 1000rpm. i did this cause at idle she runs rich, seems to work fine. i got the throttle point set as follows
LO - 98
HI - 99
but this is cause i got the series 4 tps, if your is 89 or up then you are straight cause its full range. should make a world of difference. you can set like LO=60/HI=80.
the power range is like 4000 rpm and up so richen up there.
i got mine like this:
4000 - +5
5000 - +7
and so on by 2 points
my car pulls very strong aslo in the high end, i took her to 150 mph and had no problem.
since TII's tend to run rich when the air paths are opened up, i advise you to lean out on your low map, but not by much cause this can be dangerous. its kinda like a test and tune thing.
mine is like this:
1000 - -10
2000 - -5
3000 - -3
4000 - 0
this how i got mine set up, but all cars are different according to their mods. so be patient and dont mess with it while driving dude.
one more thing, if you have the car running dont change any of the sensor settings cause you will f**k somethin up.
hope it works out good for you and you get to whip on some vettes and stangs!!! lol
anybody else has some input on this topic???????
#7
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Jaime Solivan that is excellent advice, my numbers are a lot like yours to keep from running rich on my A/F guage. And for the guy who said to run it rich that's not good advice. Get yourself a good A/F guage and adjust your S-AFC with it. If you run it rich at the high RPM's you may find yourself stuck at 5500 RPM.
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#8
I have an 87 turbo and it is 05in 05out, flapper door setting. You can check the Apexi website for all the specifications and such.
What's all this talk about getting someone to tune it? It's no big deal at all. You can spend $200 on someone to tune it or you can spend $40 on and air/fuel meter and tune it yourself. Your going to need the a/f meter anyways. All it takes is a little time and patience and about a tank of gas for all the test runs. Besides if you do it yourself you will be way more carefull than some shop would be and it will get done right.
What's all this talk about getting someone to tune it? It's no big deal at all. You can spend $200 on someone to tune it or you can spend $40 on and air/fuel meter and tune it yourself. Your going to need the a/f meter anyways. All it takes is a little time and patience and about a tank of gas for all the test runs. Besides if you do it yourself you will be way more carefull than some shop would be and it will get done right.
#9
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got that right...
i mean if your a real car enthusiast then you wanna get your hands in there and know your car. i know i do. especially since shops charge so damn much but regardless no one is gonna do a better job on your ride then yourself.
ive done alot of research on this forum and the internet and it helped me out big time....
ive done alot of research on this forum and the internet and it helped me out big time....
#10
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Originally posted by rx7_turbo2
I have an 87 turbo and it is 05in 05out, flapper door setting. You can check the Apexi website for all the specifications and such.
What's all this talk about getting someone to tune it? It's no big deal at all. You can spend $200 on someone to tune it or you can spend $40 on and air/fuel meter and tune it yourself. Your going to need the a/f meter anyways. All it takes is a little time and patience and about a tank of gas for all the test runs. Besides if you do it yourself you will be way more carefull than some shop would be and it will get done right.
I have an 87 turbo and it is 05in 05out, flapper door setting. You can check the Apexi website for all the specifications and such.
What's all this talk about getting someone to tune it? It's no big deal at all. You can spend $200 on someone to tune it or you can spend $40 on and air/fuel meter and tune it yourself. Your going to need the a/f meter anyways. All it takes is a little time and patience and about a tank of gas for all the test runs. Besides if you do it yourself you will be way more carefull than some shop would be and it will get done right.
#11
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i really need some help
Hey Guys...
i drive a 1990 turbo rx7...
-AIRINX INTAKE
-RB TURBO BACK EXHAUST
-780CC SECONDARIES
-20B FUEL PUMP IF IT MATTERS..
-FCD
-APEX AFC..
NOW WHAT SHOULD THE FOLLOWING BE...
-HI/LO THROTTLE SETTING??
-SETTINGS FOR THE FUEL FOR LOW AND HIGH THROTTLE AT EACH RPM?
PS I JUST DONT HAVE THE MONEY TO DYNOTUNE... I THINK EVERYTHING IS KINDA RICH RIGHT NOW....
i drive a 1990 turbo rx7...
-AIRINX INTAKE
-RB TURBO BACK EXHAUST
-780CC SECONDARIES
-20B FUEL PUMP IF IT MATTERS..
-FCD
-APEX AFC..
NOW WHAT SHOULD THE FOLLOWING BE...
-HI/LO THROTTLE SETTING??
-SETTINGS FOR THE FUEL FOR LOW AND HIGH THROTTLE AT EACH RPM?
PS I JUST DONT HAVE THE MONEY TO DYNOTUNE... I THINK EVERYTHING IS KINDA RICH RIGHT NOW....
#12
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every car is different. You cant run off someone elses settings. Well I guess you can, but they might have them way off. Then you will blow your motor. Do what I said above and tune it according to your car.
#13
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IN GENERAL
...the cars run a bit rich in the midrange (2.5k - 4.5k).  If you've got good equipment (i.e. wideband), you'll see that it's a little rich there, and you can lean it out several %'s.
The top end can use some tweaking by adding a little fuel.  This is especially true for those running higher than normal boost levels (anything over 10psi).
Now, the disclaimer - THERE ARE TOO MANY VARIABLES ON EVERYONES CARS TO GIVE YOU A SOLID ANSWER TO THIS QUESTION.  The above information is from my experience tuning these cars under a Horiba Lambda wide-band.  I also double-check the setting through my Cyberdyne AFR/J&S AFR and GReddy EGT gauges.
-Ted
...the cars run a bit rich in the midrange (2.5k - 4.5k).  If you've got good equipment (i.e. wideband), you'll see that it's a little rich there, and you can lean it out several %'s.
The top end can use some tweaking by adding a little fuel.  This is especially true for those running higher than normal boost levels (anything over 10psi).
Now, the disclaimer - THERE ARE TOO MANY VARIABLES ON EVERYONES CARS TO GIVE YOU A SOLID ANSWER TO THIS QUESTION.  The above information is from my experience tuning these cars under a Horiba Lambda wide-band.  I also double-check the setting through my Cyberdyne AFR/J&S AFR and GReddy EGT gauges.
-Ted
#15
Lives on the Forum
Originally posted by Samps
So I was wrong, sooooooorrrrrrrrry! My method would at least save your motor.
So I was wrong, sooooooorrrrrrrrry! My method would at least save your motor.
-Ted
#16
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If you have your + settings to high at 4500 to 7000, you could run into the problem I had, stuck at 5500 RPM with your A/F guage showing RICH. I backed my numbers way down and I'm now reaching my redline with no problem. I suggest playing with the settings to meet your specific set-up needs. Always run rich under boost my .02
#17
I put the AFC on my 91 n/a, got it dynoed tune, and was able to to get 20 more horse out of my 7!!!! MY setting are LO (thr) 40% HI (thr) 80%
LO (thr) setting 1 rpm +5%, 2 rpm -5%, 3 rpm -4%, 3500 rpm - 5%, 4 rpm -8%, 4500 rpm - 7%.. HI (thr) setting 4 rpm -8%, 5 rpm +5%, 6 rpm +6%, 7 rpm +6%, 8 rpm +6%... The setting are going to be different for each car, depending on mod's..
91 n/a
intake,exhaust,S-AFC,HI-6
LO (thr) setting 1 rpm +5%, 2 rpm -5%, 3 rpm -4%, 3500 rpm - 5%, 4 rpm -8%, 4500 rpm - 7%.. HI (thr) setting 4 rpm -8%, 5 rpm +5%, 6 rpm +6%, 7 rpm +6%, 8 rpm +6%... The setting are going to be different for each car, depending on mod's..
91 n/a
intake,exhaust,S-AFC,HI-6
#18
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Originally posted by RETed
IN GENERAL
...the cars run a bit rich in the midrange (2.5k - 4.5k).  If you've got good equipment (i.e. wideband), you'll see that it's a little rich there, and you can lean it out several %'s.
The top end can use some tweaking by adding a little fuel.  This is especially true for those running higher than normal boost levels (anything over 10psi).
Now, the disclaimer - THERE ARE TOO MANY VARIABLES ON EVERYONES CARS TO GIVE YOU A SOLID ANSWER TO THIS QUESTION.  The above information is from my experience tuning these cars under a Horiba Lambda wide-band.  I also double-check the setting through my Cyberdyne AFR/J&S AFR and GReddy EGT gauges.
-Ted
IN GENERAL
...the cars run a bit rich in the midrange (2.5k - 4.5k).  If you've got good equipment (i.e. wideband), you'll see that it's a little rich there, and you can lean it out several %'s.
The top end can use some tweaking by adding a little fuel.  This is especially true for those running higher than normal boost levels (anything over 10psi).
Now, the disclaimer - THERE ARE TOO MANY VARIABLES ON EVERYONES CARS TO GIVE YOU A SOLID ANSWER TO THIS QUESTION.  The above information is from my experience tuning these cars under a Horiba Lambda wide-band.  I also double-check the setting through my Cyberdyne AFR/J&S AFR and GReddy EGT gauges.
-Ted
Thanks
Chris
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Sweet! I appreciate the info as well. I have an S-AFC on the way for my NA, and I'm going to need it tuned. I'll probably just mess with it until I get it right, but at least I have something to go by now. Thanks a lot guys.
-Derek
-Derek
#22
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1.3liter_of_power
i have a 88 SE n/a and i am probably gonna buy a SAFC if u guys think it is worth it......my mods are as follows
-Greddy high flow mufflers
-Test pipe cat replacement w/custom pre-cat back 2.5 inch piping
-all emissions removed
-cone style ram air intake on hood(mounted directly to MAF which is mounted directly to the TB)
-TII fuel pump
-main and alternator power pulleys
-pineapple racing 5th and 6th port sleeves
-wired open ports
-Griffin 22x19 high-flow radiator
-Perma-Cool electric fan
is it worth it?? will i see as good a gain as "1.3liter_of_power" did??
thanx all
Crossbar
i have a 88 SE n/a and i am probably gonna buy a SAFC if u guys think it is worth it......my mods are as follows
-Greddy high flow mufflers
-Test pipe cat replacement w/custom pre-cat back 2.5 inch piping
-all emissions removed
-cone style ram air intake on hood(mounted directly to MAF which is mounted directly to the TB)
-TII fuel pump
-main and alternator power pulleys
-pineapple racing 5th and 6th port sleeves
-wired open ports
-Griffin 22x19 high-flow radiator
-Perma-Cool electric fan
is it worth it?? will i see as good a gain as "1.3liter_of_power" did??
thanx all
Crossbar
#23
Rotary Freak
Hey
Wow.. u suond really fast. Have u done the 1/4?. Anyway, u wont get 20hp unless ur running bad fuel ratios already. With ur mods u might hit it i dont know.
Hey 1.3litres of power. How *** at ur low throttle 1krpm did u add 5% of fuel. Isnt it runing rich.. ?
By the way. U guys are right about tuning it urself. I guess i will leave mine on. I have the exact same mods as 1.3 litres. I have an n/a. Make sure ur guys injectors are clean before doing this or u will hurt ur engine.
Hey 1.3litres of power. How *** at ur low throttle 1krpm did u add 5% of fuel. Isnt it runing rich.. ?
By the way. U guys are right about tuning it urself. I guess i will leave mine on. I have the exact same mods as 1.3 litres. I have an n/a. Make sure ur guys injectors are clean before doing this or u will hurt ur engine.
#24
Rotary Freak
hey
Oh.. another thing. 1.3litrs of p. So what do u see on your a/f gauge when u got it tuned. Is it in the lean all the time or rich. What should i be looking for. Im going to use your setup until i get a gauge. And how do u use the oxygen sensor readings to my advantage. What is rich and lean acording to the different volteges.
Does anyones car hesitate after they installed this afc. Mine hesitates like its not getting fuel. Only when its cold. It sputers like waaaaspspspsps. or somethin like that. I think its just dirty injectors but hapend after i put the afc on. Goes away when warm.
Does anyones car hesitate after they installed this afc. Mine hesitates like its not getting fuel. Only when its cold. It sputers like waaaaspspspsps. or somethin like that. I think its just dirty injectors but hapend after i put the afc on. Goes away when warm.
#25
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Originally posted by live4boost
Save your self 200 on the shop, and save your self 40 on a auto meter gauge, and spend 0 dollars on hooking the blue wire that is left over to your 02 sensor. This will give you a digital reading that is more accurate than a bunch of flashing lights. Then if you want it more accurate you will go to a shop and fork out the dough.
Save your self 200 on the shop, and save your self 40 on a auto meter gauge, and spend 0 dollars on hooking the blue wire that is left over to your 02 sensor. This will give you a digital reading that is more accurate than a bunch of flashing lights. Then if you want it more accurate you will go to a shop and fork out the dough.
thanks