s6 fd rotors in t2 motor
05-02-13, 12:43 AM
#4
I believe FD rotors are already clearanced but don't quote me on that. *edit* Just checked and i cant find anything on it.
other than that they are pretty much the same other than small differences.
Same reason you can use either S5 or S6 flywheel on both rotating assemblies.
other than that they are pretty much the same other than small differences.
Same reason you can use either S5 or S6 flywheel on both rotating assemblies.
Last edited by savanna.seven; 05-02-13 at 12:53 AM.
05-08-13, 11:47 PM
#9
Don't take this the wrong way, but should you be building your own motor if you don't know this stuff?
You'd need either an FD or s5 T2 flywheel, yes. You can use any 87-91 turbo clutch.
You can tell the difference in s4, s5, and s6 front counterweights easily. Mazdatrix has a writeup to differentiate between s4 and s5/6 rear auto counterweights as well. Stock flywheels are easily ID'd by the model number cast into the back.
You'd need either an FD or s5 T2 flywheel, yes. You can use any 87-91 turbo clutch.
You can tell the difference in s4, s5, and s6 front counterweights easily. Mazdatrix has a writeup to differentiate between s4 and s5/6 rear auto counterweights as well. Stock flywheels are easily ID'd by the model number cast into the back.
05-09-13, 12:46 AM
#11
Don't take this the wrong way, but should you be building your own motor if you don't know this stuff?
You'd need either an FD or s5 T2 flywheel, yes. You can use any 87-91 turbo clutch.
You can tell the difference in s4, s5, and s6 front counterweights easily. Mazdatrix has a writeup to differentiate between s4 and s5/6 rear auto counterweights as well. Stock flywheels are easily ID'd by the model number cast into the back.
You'd need either an FD or s5 T2 flywheel, yes. You can use any 87-91 turbo clutch.
You can tell the difference in s4, s5, and s6 front counterweights easily. Mazdatrix has a writeup to differentiate between s4 and s5/6 rear auto counterweights as well. Stock flywheels are easily ID'd by the model number cast into the back.
05-09-13, 07:54 AM
#12
i went the opposite direction and put S4 9.4CR rotors in an FD engine. All i used was the S4 front counterweight, S4 flywheel, and had to use the S4 torrington bearings since the S6 bearings where wider and wouldnt fit in the S4 counterweight race
05-09-13, 09:21 AM
#13
Don't hate my V8
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man... if you cant check the PN to see if they're the same dont bother. just put down the tools and take the parts to a reputable rotary shop. if you cant do some self learning on basic part interchange how can you hope to figure out how more complex parts of the engine build will work?
05-09-13, 10:43 AM
#14
You cannot use an s6 front counterweight without converting over to s6 or rx8 stat gears, and using the larger diameter needle bearings/thrust parts. You can however use an s5 front counterweight with no issues.
05-09-13, 11:23 AM
#15
You can use an FD stock flywheel on any 89-95 turbo engine/rotors.
You cannot use an s6 front counterweight without converting over to s6 or rx8 stat gears, and using the larger diameter needle bearings/thrust parts. You can however use an s5 front counterweight with no issues.
You cannot use an s6 front counterweight without converting over to s6 or rx8 stat gears, and using the larger diameter needle bearings/thrust parts. You can however use an s5 front counterweight with no issues.
05-09-13, 11:53 AM
#16
they're only rude if this hadn't been posted dozens of times before. how many times have i pulled apart engines that were a mix of parts that never should have been used in an engine? more times than i care to remember.
we all want to think we're experts but if you can't take a little criticism then they may be correct.
the basics:
the shell of an engine does not matter, so long as the series remains constant, rotor housings can be substituted but also should be kept within the same series.
rotating assemblies should also be kept all within the same series, this consists of: rotors, front counterweight and rear counterweight(stock flywheel or auto counterweight).
e-shaft series does not matter, so long as it is '86+ 13B.
turbo stat gears are hardened(grey finish under the gear surface), non turbo stat gears are not hardened(polished finish under the gear surface). non turbo stat gears can be used up to about 350whp, turbo gears should be used beyond that.
we all want to think we're experts but if you can't take a little criticism then they may be correct.
the basics:
the shell of an engine does not matter, so long as the series remains constant, rotor housings can be substituted but also should be kept within the same series.
rotating assemblies should also be kept all within the same series, this consists of: rotors, front counterweight and rear counterweight(stock flywheel or auto counterweight).
e-shaft series does not matter, so long as it is '86+ 13B.
turbo stat gears are hardened(grey finish under the gear surface), non turbo stat gears are not hardened(polished finish under the gear surface). non turbo stat gears can be used up to about 350whp, turbo gears should be used beyond that.
Last edited by RotaryEvolution; 05-09-13 at 11:57 AM.
05-09-13, 12:10 PM
#17
they're only rude if this hadn't been posted dozens of times before. how many times have i pulled apart engines that were a mix of parts that never should have been used in an engine? more times than i care to remember.
we all want to think we're experts but if you can't take a little criticism then they may be correct.
the basics:
the shell of an engine does not matter, so long as the series remains constant, rotor housings can be substituted but also should be kept within the same series.
rotating assemblies should also be kept all within the same series, this consists of: rotors, front counterweight and rear counterweight(stock flywheel or auto counterweight).
e-shaft series does not matter, so long as it is '86+ 13B.
turbo stat gears are hardened(grey finish under the gear surface), non turbo stat gears are not hardened(polished finish under the gear surface). non turbo stat gears can be used up to about 350whp, turbo gears should be used beyond that.
we all want to think we're experts but if you can't take a little criticism then they may be correct.
the basics:
the shell of an engine does not matter, so long as the series remains constant, rotor housings can be substituted but also should be kept within the same series.
rotating assemblies should also be kept all within the same series, this consists of: rotors, front counterweight and rear counterweight(stock flywheel or auto counterweight).
e-shaft series does not matter, so long as it is '86+ 13B.
turbo stat gears are hardened(grey finish under the gear surface), non turbo stat gears are not hardened(polished finish under the gear surface). non turbo stat gears can be used up to about 350whp, turbo gears should be used beyond that.
05-09-13, 12:19 PM
#18
but it's only a problem if the counterweights were not used.
we're probably going to see more high compression builds in the future as people continue to blow up turbo rotors. but high compression also has a new set of issues with higher boost levels.
to keep the engines more current i haven't been dissuaded by upping compression ratios, it just takes a slightly different approach.
we're probably going to see more high compression builds in the future as people continue to blow up turbo rotors. but high compression also has a new set of issues with higher boost levels.
to keep the engines more current i haven't been dissuaded by upping compression ratios, it just takes a slightly different approach.
Last edited by RotaryEvolution; 05-09-13 at 12:21 PM.
05-10-13, 01:18 PM
#19
They weren't. It had s4 rotors and stock FD counterweighting.
What? I said it had S4 T2 rotors...8.5:1.
we're probably going to see more high compression builds in the future as people continue to blow up turbo rotors. but high compression also has a new set of issues with higher boost levels.
to keep the engines more current i haven't been dissuaded by upping compression ratios, it just takes a slightly different approach.
to keep the engines more current i haven't been dissuaded by upping compression ratios, it just takes a slightly different approach.
05-10-13, 09:03 PM
#20
they're only rude if this hadn't been posted dozens of times before. how many times have i pulled apart engines that were a mix of parts that never should have been used in an engine? more times than i care to remember.
we all want to think we're experts but if you can't take a little criticism then they may be correct.
the basics:
the shell of an engine does not matter, so long as the series remains constant, rotor housings can be substituted but also should be kept within the same series.
rotating assemblies should also be kept all within the same series, this consists of: rotors, front counterweight and rear counterweight(stock flywheel or auto counterweight).
e-shaft series does not matter, so long as it is '86+ 13B.
turbo stat gears are hardened(grey finish under the gear surface), non turbo stat gears are not hardened(polished finish under the gear surface). non turbo stat gears can be used up to about 350whp, turbo gears should be used beyond that.
we all want to think we're experts but if you can't take a little criticism then they may be correct.
the basics:
the shell of an engine does not matter, so long as the series remains constant, rotor housings can be substituted but also should be kept within the same series.
rotating assemblies should also be kept all within the same series, this consists of: rotors, front counterweight and rear counterweight(stock flywheel or auto counterweight).
e-shaft series does not matter, so long as it is '86+ 13B.
turbo stat gears are hardened(grey finish under the gear surface), non turbo stat gears are not hardened(polished finish under the gear surface). non turbo stat gears can be used up to about 350whp, turbo gears should be used beyond that.
05-11-13, 11:38 AM
#25
Don't hate my V8
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this is not just a rotary engine building issue, its a engine building issue in general. i've taken apart all kinds of "built" engines and 70% or more of the time they're a complete hash of mix matched scrapyard parts slapped together. People generally think saying a rebuilt engine will get a car sold or look more appealing, it usually scares me away from used cars.