jreynish

iTrader: (2)

I have set the TPS about a dozen times... since it has been some time since I have set the tps on an S5 turbo car, I remember on teamfc3s.org in the faq section used to be a very good how to... but the page does not display.
Does anybody have a how to link for me?

Anyways here is the following problem.
The car does not start when cold I have to plug in the block heater and then it will start but will not stay running on it's own without my holding the pedal to keep it running for about a minute.

When I do get it warmed up the idle will sometimes hunt and sometimes It will not, When driving the car if I open the throttle past I don't know 5-10% the car falls flat on it's face and feels like fuel cut and it pops and sputters.

I think this is due to the tps but I have set it by setting the sensor adjustment screw to 1000k resistance. but it does not make a difference I have tried two TPS's and no difference between the two.

Anybody with a good link for a how to set s5 tps or any insights on my problem.
I have searched but all the links I found came up with no page to display error.

chiorx7

Well Check Fuel Press Or Compression

jreynish

iTrader: (2)

Thank You for your suggestion but the fuel pressure is dead on... and the engine is freshly rebuilt with about 100km's on it it stil makes 90psi on rear and 100 on front so those are definitely not the problem..
there is no vac leak guaranteed.

Chuck

iTrader: (2)

You probably ought to try setting the TPS by voltage at the ECU. If you do this at the ECU, you can be assured that the ECU is receiving the proper signal from the TPS. Approx 1 volt engine fully warmed up at idle. While you're there, check the idle to WOT sweep for smooth progression without any drop outs. Voltage reading at WOT will be 4-6 volts for a correct functioning TPS. Then see if you can get a rock solid idle setting at 800 rpm. Ground the initial set connector and adjust the idle screw on top of the throttle body until you get 800 rpm.

If you do these steps and still have idle problems, you've eliminated the TPS as a possible culprit and can go on to other things. If you are sure there are no vacuum leaks, look to BAC valve and Thermowax next.

Chuck

iTrader: (2)

You know, it just occurred to me. Before you go on too many fishing expeditions with regard tot the problems you're having, dump the error codes at the check engine light. If there are codes there you might be able to zero in in your particular problem.

DySlAyU

I have to sub to this thread because i have the same problems.. i did fix my idle hunting
that was done by.. /explains

when it is hunting open your hood and look on the drivers side of the engine bay right beside the intake manifold there will be your injectors and stuff look further back you will see one lone plug should be white.. unplug that plug its some random crap sensor that you don't really need and if that solves the problem great

as for the touch hte fuel before its warmed up i have that problem and it drives me crazy.. the RPMS drop off to about 200 then it cuts in to about 2k, then drop again and grr

/sub

jreynish

iTrader: (2)

Read below.

jreynish

iTrader: (2)

Alright so I have figured out how to set the TPS on s5 cars... not I have tried this several times.
Now the ENGINE MUST BE WARM and RUNNING!!! I have found that the voltage changed as much as 0.25V by doing it with the engine off.

Now if the following Images you BackProbe the particular Wires Needed to test at idle and Wide open throttle. Back probing means simply to Stick a pin or small pin proble metallic object into the back of the plug without damaging the insulator plug so as it makes contact with the pin. Then the multimeter can read the voltage.

In the following picture you want to backprobe with the Positive probe on your voltmeter the Green with red wire (G/R) on the engine side of the TPS plug and the negative probe on a good known ground. Now with the engine warm and running this should read 1V at idling if not adjust the TPS sensor adjustment screw to acheive 1V.


In the following picture you want to backprobe with the positive probe on your voltmeter the Black with green wire (B/G) on the engine side of the TPS plug and the negative probe on a good known ground. Now with the engine warm and running this should read 0.8V at idle. If not then it is possible that your TPS is no good. Check as per FSM


Now Repeat the step above but turn the engine off and leave the key in the on position, only this time hold the throttle full open and the voltage should read on the Green with Red (G/R) approximately 5.0V.
And the same with the Black with Green (B/G) should read approximately 4.3V

This should ensure that the tps is properly set for all series five cars.

jreynish

iTrader: (2)

Alright so I have done this twice and both times the car starts and idles at a rock solid 800rpm at operating temp... no problem. Then went for a drive and worked flawlessly, no codes, no hesitation or anything. Then on my way back into the driveway it started bucking again like it hit a brick wall if I open the throttle too much. It almost seems like it is hitting fuel cut. infact it almost seems like it is hitting limp mode.
I have changed the water temp sensor, that works.
I ahve changed the MAF with a known good one, still no difference
Changed and callibrated two sperate TPS's no difference.

The surging idle also returned at the very same time..
Anybody with any ideas
By searching similar problems had these things fix them,
Tps adjust ment (not permanent in my case)
Alternator (new 1.5 years ago FD)
Blown engine (not in my case)

Anybody?

jreynish

iTrader: (2)

Alright shy of figuring out the surging idle I have found the source of the majority of my problems.
S5 MOP I should have known this would have been the source.
Anyway the position sensor on the MOP one of the brackets were brocken, so I took some sheet metal some shears and made a new bracket and then took the car for a drive MUCH MUCH better... the idle was rock solid for a time until the engine warmed up then started surging. I figure this is the majority of my problems.
So if you have having compound problems one at a time one at a time.

Also I should note that there were no codes stored in the ECU for this either.
Now time to figure out why the idle is surging even though the tps is properly set verified before and after drive.

jreynish

iTrader: (2)

anybody with any ideas for the surging idle?

Kurtis

Surging idle mean the TPS is not set right. I know this because mine has been wacked out for a while until i got it adjusted almost perfect then it stopped surging...i do have a problem after my car warms up it idles to low around 600-700 rps then wants to die sometimes.. i need to get my TPS set by a specialist so i know its right.

jreynish

iTrader: (2)

actually it wasn't that I was setting the tps Wrong it was the timing Check out this thread here one page three about 2/3 the way down there is a large post by me outlining the definitive troubleshooting guide for surging idle;
https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...roubleshooting