jjcobm

iTrader: (18)

Nice thread. Glad to see you just going at it like a beast : )

TrboSpdAnt

iTrader: (5)

Thanks, man. I don't tend to *** around. If I have the time and resources, I'm in it to win it...

This thread started as a WTF?!' thread, but rapidly converted into a build thread... Only a couple of things left, now:

Pressureized oil-feed line to the turbo from the (unpictured) Lamco,
New Plugs (9s);
Oil (Royal Purple);
Prayer.

Battery relocation is in the works and then the head-unit (from what I hear, it's a PITA to work with/ around the OEM amp)...

Then the usual: Brakes, Suspension and wheels.

THEN the fun will begin.

AlexG13B

iTrader: (7)

looking good

TrboSpdAnt

iTrader: (5)

"I'z gots dis JayDeeEm manifold, yo!"

BWAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAH!

florotory

THE H/U isnt that bad.

TrboSpdAnt

iTrader: (5)

Found a couple of wiring schems for the car, but nothing to do with the amp... Maybe I'll just jumper everything from the harness and leave the little, gimpy-*** amp, in place.

jjcobm

iTrader: (18)

Please post pictures of the battery relocation. I would be very interested since I too have a vert. I want to see how you end up securing it to the chassis.

I am not sure if you already have it covered, but I would recommend you at least run an Rtek 2.0 chipped ECU at the minimum with a 6-port turbo if you want it to be worry free. I would hate to see someone who spent all this time on their project end up with a blown engine.

TrboSpdAnt

iTrader: (5)

Will do.

The quick a ugly is to remove the four 10mm bolts that hold the amp in, and use that space for the battery. The amp will fit snugly in the bracketing on the right side, above and behind where it was, originally.

I removed the bracket on the right (2 more 10mm bolts and 2 philips-headed screws) and sanded bothe the top of the mounting flange as well as the chassis, itself. You can do this with some chunky-grit sandpaper, but I knocked it out in about 3.2 seconds using a Dremel.

I also sanded/ ground down the inside of the hole through the bracket, so that the bolt that's acting as my ground has better contact.

While I'm sure there are other write ups on this, I will try to document what goes on with the relocation... Pics, included.

TrboSpdAnt

iTrader: (5)

Not my car (these are from an install of a full custom system in a vert> http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum/...nvertible.html), but this is what it looks like:





Like I said, on the right side is where the Amp is located. Just remove the bolts and test-mount a battery there (working in a battery box would be a good idea, though).

The black bracket on the upper-right of the second pic is where I ground it down and have mounted my chassis ground.

Here's a simple diagram that Mike sent me (though it's cleaned up a little):


He suggested that I put a jump-point in, as well, so I have to figure out if I'm going to use the tried and true parts that I've used on track cars. These are insulated and can be mounted through metal. That way, I can have a pair mounted under the hood, JIC.

TrboSpdAnt

iTrader: (5)

Well, still waiting on various doo-dads to finish this.

While I expected this project to take a minute, I wasn't expecting that minute to be taken up by waiting on parts.

Right about now, I'm waiting on the machine-shop to finish threading my Lamco oil-adaptor for AN lines, to supply oil to the turbo...

In the interim, I've done some clean-up and painting. You'll also notice the upper rad hose has a jumper-pipe in it. That was because the NA and Tii water-pump necks are at different angles. The Tii kicks back about 3" vs. the NA. The jumper serves double-duty: extending the hose AND providing a thread-in point for the water-temp gauge.

None-the-less! Here we sit, currently:



Since I'm starting to come up on the home-stretch, I'm going to gather up all of the remaining parts (lots!) and post 'em FS.... Some of it won't be available for shipping and will be local pick-up, only (**** too heavy to ship, like IRONS).

TrboSpdAnt

iTrader: (5)

As I mentioned, I'm going to have some stuff up, FS....

Won't ship anything on the top row (irons, etc.) or the RB exhaust bits - everything else is open to negotiation. Eventually I'll make a list of parts.

See attachments...

jjcobm

iTrader: (18)

Did you have the pulleys and upper intake manifold powder coated or similar finsih or is that just spray? Looks good.

K-Tune

iTrader: (26)

i would be VERY wary of your front needle bearings... the amount of movement that's acceptable is VERY hard to notice with the engine in the car. you got a really sour deal on that trade unless your bike was only worth around 900 bucks


are those rubber vacuum lines coming out of your OMP? that isn't going to work.

TrboSpdAnt

iTrader: (5)

Brief update:

Since I'm waiting on more fraggin' parts, I'd muck about, with the interior...

Here's the thread-link (as not to thread-jack - masturbation? Self jacking?)

https://www.rx7club.com/fabrication-250/im-thinkin-radio-area-fab-922111/#post10312369

TrboSpdAnt

iTrader: (5)

So here's the most recent update (since I've been so damned preoccupied trying to make money for this international non-profit, I work for).

I was waiting on some bits from Japan, since NO ONE seemed to have them...

Finally, I got tired of waiting and cancelled some of the order (still have a couple of nifty bits coming) and decided to go about it a different way.

One of the things I was having an issue with was getting oil to my turbo. Since Mike and Alex and been getting very little sleep (since I seem to call JUST after they crash, at night - sorry, guys!), helping me out, I thought I go swimming in the infested waters, alone.... And all's worked out.

Alex gave me the heads up on running coolant, so THAT part's good, but I still had to get oil to this puppy...

Long to short, here's the post, in another thread

WOO-HOO! Almost there!

Next (last?) is trans brace (any help?) and to off-load these GOD-AWFUL wheels.

Oil, plugs, vroom!

TrboSpdAnt

iTrader: (5)

So I've got the headlight conversion, battery relocation (w/ 4G wire), oil lines (Lamco > Turbo supply)...

Not I RE-wire the E-Fan and away we go...

Kev has a brace for me, so THAT part's done! WOO-HOO!

TrboSpdAnt

iTrader: (5)

WOO-HOO! Update pics!

Check 'em out, here!

These were taken around 1600, today, so they're as recent, as it gets.

Digi7ech

iTrader: (1)

Damn dude, you got the shaft on this car.

I would have gotten a 13bt motor instead of ******* with all that BS.

TrboSpdAnt

iTrader: (5)

That's because you lack either the patience, funding or knowledge to do it yourself. If you're going to do it the EASY way, you OBVIOUSLY lack something, previously listed. Now STFU and go pay someone else to build your ****, you ****-tard.

Aaaaand for every with a brain: New pics! WOO HOO!

Click HERE for the directory, delineated by date, or my signature pics for the gallery.

TrboSpdAnt

iTrader: (5)

BTW:

Here're the requested pictures of the battery relocation (as of today):

100A breaker, inline (also located in the bin=-area):


Bin BEFORE (4G Hot and ground):


Bin AFTER:

K-Tune

iTrader: (26)

That battery isn't designed to be mounted in a passenger compartment. It needs to be inside a sealed box with a proper vent running to the outside of the car.


Also it appears to be a sidepost but with top post terminals on the wires...you need the proper wire ends to connect to that side post battery. Using screw in "adapters" is only for charging maintenance of the battery, not for permanent installation.

I don't recommend being so critical over someone simply stating the truth...just because you chose to invest time and money into fixing someone elses screw ups(that you happily paid for) as opposed to starting with something that makes sense.

Digi7ech

iTrader: (1)

lol, I was sympathetic but now you're just a tard.

You are stupid enough to buy someones meth induced car project.

I've built all my cars and race them.
---------------------------------
Now for some actual tips.
Watch that 100amp breaker. The distance is going to probably make it trip on you. I went with a 150amp breaker when I was building a relocated battery.

My friends LSx S13 also tripped his 125 amp breaker every few times.

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Like said above. The battery will need to be in a sealed box with a vent tube outside of the car. There is a rubber plug under the bin area you can punch out and use for the vent.

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I would have personally kept the S4 front cover and parts. The S5's kind of got cheap on the waterpump neck. I took the water feed from behind the waterpump for my turbo.
The OMP also sucks and premix is way better. Doing this would have meant going Haltech because of the S5 limp mode.
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If you haven't tried yet. I'd say the Rtek 2.0 for S5 may take care of the engine.

RRTEC

iTrader: (13)

I debated posting in this thread, But you have no idea who you are alienating..

I feel sorry for the person you sell this car to ultimately.. Unless you tear this motor down and rebuild it right, this is a ticking timebomb. I have built several 6 port tubo cars, and the last thing a used high compression rotary needs is boost...

TrboSpdAnt

iTrader: (5)

Agreed, K-Tune. One way, or the other - right or wrong - the end result will be the same.

I get too bored buying cars, year after year, that I know work fine and are (mostly) a piece of cake to "projectify," so picking this one up - being a MASSIVE hump, uphill like a trek up Kilimanjaro, is a nice change.

I'm not INTENDING on alienating anyone, it's just really aggravating to constantly hear people talk trash/ down about a car that has been noted as a project from day one.

So, that being said, I apologize to anyone who I may had alienated or offended. That wasn't my intention beyond the expressive scope of reaction to their initial present.

I've been doing enough things with cars, in general, for a long time. I don't have the wiring that something CANNOT be done, or SHOULDN'T be done due to it's hemorrhoid level.

I have the patience experience, knowledge and funding to do nearly anything I want, with any project car I acquire, so it isn't like I'm worried if something goes wrong or is a theoretical 'set-back.'

Since I own 3 vehicle and so it isn't like I NEED this car to be tip-top, 10 days ago.

I appreciate ANY amount of constructive knowledge that a person can offer....

Of course, you can talk a nation into practicing some religious fanaticism...

It's all in the delivery.

While all constructive comments are definitely welcome, I'll just skip over the others:

Yeah, the battery's going into a box; it's just sitting in. That's NOT, by any stretch going to be the final-in. I figured that getting it to seat well is one thing... Having the sucker bust, is another. I know that the side/ top mount posts are wompy, it was what was easily accessible (left over bits from my old FD). Soon as the box gets in, from Summit, It'll be fixed. Swear.

I have an S4 Tii front cover, but the OMP I was sent was an S5 EOMP, so I'm debating on a couple of things and just going after the pre-mix option. A buddy of mine stands by the pr-mix method and said to remove the mechanics of the EOMP and leave the harness plugged in (to eliminate the need for the engine needing Viagra). The water-supply, to the turbo is coming from the source you suggested. Since the BAC is MIA the hose from the back of the water-pump neck went to it. You figure block-off plate to cover the, ah, cover, or leave it in place, and go with the suggestion, I was given?

Speaking of, some clarification, regarding the water-supply feed: You removed the hose from the water-pump side, capped the nipple and ran that end to the turbo, or vice-verse?

Digi7ech

iTrader: (1)

^ actually I remember my friend doing the same thing with the OMP. He stuffed it up in the fender/firewall corner next to the charcoal canister. Don't forget the dime in the front cover when blocking the cover off.
The omp holes can be plugged with short depth bolts. Watch the depth because they go straight into the motor. You don't want to screw up the weep holes.

I have left my BAC on there just to block the hole. I personally have not noticed a difference in idle with BAC plugged in or unplugged.

The water feed for you is a bit complicated since it's a NA keg. I suppose you could drill out the TII coolant plug so the stock line actually works.
I don't know if the rear iron coolant nipple could be a feed line. Then the front waterpump nipple be the return. I think that's the coolant flow direction.??