riptyde

iTrader: (5)

Im trying to see if there are any differences in the s5 na throttle body and the s4 na throttle body that would prevent me from being able to put the s4 tps on with corrrect lever/stopper on the bar along with the omp rod slot. The only thing that I can see different by comparing the two (s4 vs s5) is the primary throttle bar with the tps lever and omp bar are different. Can the bars just be swaped out to accommodate which series tps is used without any other differences/problems arising?

-bryan

riptyde

iTrader: (5)

For those that would like to know the answer to this question, simple answer is No. Not without some modification. The first thing that I noticed was different was that the primary throttle bars are different lenghts. This could be easily fixed with a couple of washers/spacers. The next problem I saw was that tps mounting were in different spots. They look very close, but further evaluation shows that the mounting holes are a little higher on the s4 than the s5 tb. Im sure you could make a mounting bracket for this, but I don't have the materials at the moment so it looks like I will be using the s4 tb on my s5 intake swap. This is as far as i went to see the differences, there might be more.

-riptyde

Houstonderk

iTrader: (3)

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riptyde

iTrader: (5)

Was trying to swap s5 intake onto s4 block with s4 wiring and still used s5 throttle body with s4 tps, but if you can't understand that please stay out of my thread.

HAILERS

It seems to me, if the series five throttle body you have, has a series five two plunger TPS on it right now, that you could ignore the full range TPS and use the narrow range TPS by repinning the wires from the series five TPS plug to a series four TPS plug.

The narrow range on a series five has the same output as the TPS on a series four.There'd be only three wires to rearrange.

riptyde

iTrader: (5)

Really? Do you know how to rewire it, im not to good with electrical so I would be lost even with the fsm wiring diagram.

Sideways7

iTrader: (7)

Whats wrong with the s4 TB? All you have to do to make it fit is grind off the little nub on the bottom that hits the VDI. Other than that its plug and play.

riptyde

iTrader: (5)

My s4 tb has been molested by the throttle body mod, but my s5 tb has yet to be modded. Was trying to retain all of the factory equipment, but it looks like im just gonna stay with the s4 tb.

Sideways7

iTrader: (7)

Gotcha.
So what all did you do? If you took out the front set of throttle plates (double throttle diaphram?) then thats not a problem, just don't romp on it until its warm.
The only of thing I can think of you can do is to remove the thermovalve assembly, but you should be able to put that back on if you want it.
I might have an unmolested s4 TB (I have 3 extras, but not sure if any are s4's). If I find one I'll let you have it for cheap, if you are intersted.

HAILERS

You'd find the narrow range TPS plunger. It's the one that fully extends prior to the other TPS plunger.

You'd follow its three wires from the narrow range TPS body to the TPS elect plug.

Those would be the three wires that would have to go to the series four TPS plug on the EM harness.

It SEEMS you still have the connector from the series four TPS connector. I'm talking the connector that is on the pigtail of the TPS itself. You would depin that series four TPS connector and attach the three wires of the series five TPS, I mentioned above, to that series four TPS plug.

Before going any futher, you should look at the series five tps connector and compare it with the series four tps connector, to see if the terminals on the wires are the same b/t the two tps connectors. I'm saying, if you remove a wire from the series five TPS connector, will it fit in the series four TPS connector. If they're the same, then what I'm suggesting can be done.

Wires are extracted from a connector by depressing a plastic tongue inside the connector and pulling on the wire .


The attached jpg shows the series five TPS connector that is on the TPS pigtail. the A, B, C are the wires that you would extract. Lable them prior to doing so. Label them A, B, C. So you won't forget which is which. YOur looking into the pigtail plug in that jpg, NOT the wire side of the connector. Remember that.

So you'd extract those three wires and install those three in the series four TPS connector that is on the EM harness.

I'm not going any further with this unless your going to do it .....or not. Except to say the "A" wire would mate with the Green/Red wire in the TPS connector on the EM harness.

riptyde

iTrader: (5)

After examining the tps and pigtail, I found out that the s4 tps connector terminals are a little bit bigger than those on the s5 tps. But, the wiring is the same (exactly the same wiring colors). If I was to go this route, I would just need to change the terminals on the s5 wiring to the s4 terminals. Instead of doing this I noticed that the tps box itself could be removed from the mounting bracket by just bending 4 metal prongs on the bottom. I did the latter by putting my s4 tps on the s5 mounting bracket and hooked it up to my car (still s4 intake) to see if it would work. Success. Now I just need to fix the idle. For some reason after changing this, my idle is erratic, jumping 500 rpms up and down. Sounds like a vaccum leak to me so it shouldn't be a big deal. Hailers you are the man. Thanks for the help.

HAILERS

Too bad you are not using a digital meter of some sort. IF you had one, I'd suggest getting the engine HOT, then while idling, put the negative meter lead on a known ground, like the battery neg terminal, then backprobe the EM harness side of the TPS connector where there is a Green wire with a Red stripe. The meter should read one volt dc if it's adjusted right. If it does not read one volt dc approx, then turn the screw on the TPS til it does read approx one volt dc.

Getting the vauum lines on wrong, on front of the dynamic chamber, will give you a bad, irratic idle. At least on a series four it will.

You could adjust it with the engine OFF and key ON, but the engine has to be hot when you do it.

riptyde

iTrader: (5)

Yeah I adjusted the tps according to the FSM, without the lamps. 1 ohm at rest, 3.98 ohm at WOT. I don't think that the 0.02 ohm difference from within spec should really be a big deal.

I didn't change or touch any vaccum lines, but im pretty sure its a vaccum leak from the way it sounds. Maybe there is a difference in the tb spacers. I should be able to track down the culprit later tonight when it isn't so hot outside, if not Ill deffinitely find it when I swap the complete s5 intake over.

Thanks again.

Shainiac

iTrader: (7)

You can actually REMOVE the S4 TPS from the metal that bolts it to the throttle body. There are 2 bands with bent tabs that keep it in place. Simply remove both TPS's from the S5 TB but prying the tabs on the bands keeping them in place to remove them as well. After you remove both of them, put the S4 TPS and harness where the short range TPS was on the S5 TPS bracket. This seems like a lot of work, but it takes very little time once you see what Im talking about. It is cleaner than just hacking the S5 harness AND you dont have to worry about whether the splices you made hold up. If that my discription is a too cluttered, take some pictures of both sides of a TPS and I can be more specific.

riptyde

iTrader: (5)

That is what I did Shainiac as I explained in post #11.

Shainiac

iTrader: (7)

Oops. Thought I read everything. Glad that worked for ya!