Hey guys i just rebuild my 13b for my s5 and im issue starting i have fuel i got spark. but it just cranks and cranks but no good.... some one told me this was normal... does anyone know an trick or an easy way to start a re build?... thanks guys

 

Did you liberally lubricate the inside of the engine with oil when you were assembling it?

 

yea i did but i didnt put a **** load of it just a thin layer of oil...

 

Fill up a 20oz drink bottle with oil. Pour the oil down the intake before you try and start it. Usually works every time.

 

realy.... Do i use that 20w50 pour it thru the bottom intake manofold? can i just pour it thru the spark plugg hoes? have you done this before and i works?

 

anyone else have any tricks up thier sleeve?

 

Have you been flooding it? Weak battery at all?? Stabbed cas properly? Check fuel pressure? Clean plugs? What rebuild kit and what specs on all your internals? Just suggesting anything possible out there.

 

you have fuel and spark. but what about timing...?

also, check compression. if you didnt clearence correctly or reused old seals. this could be the problem. also, the small corner piece of the apex seal has been known to flip or move around.

you should never have to put oil in a motor to start it. pouring oil is to create compression. if everything is done right, it shouldnt be needed. also, dont check compression if you already loaded it with oil. you will get an incorrect reading... the plates and housings should be lubed with either vasaline, crisco, bearing grease or similar for lubrciation upon start up. but thats it...

 

Timming is good got spark got fuel cas is in the rigth position. got good fuel psi. battery is @12.6 volts at 90% state of charge... I got New apex seals and springs. I used engine oil when i assebled the engine. i didnt want to use crisco cuz that make your water seals fat and out of shape... Im going to put some engine oil down the manifold and a bit in the leading spark plugg hoes and i report my finding guys

 

a well build motor with good rotor housings should start right up,if your housings are not that good and you reused some old seal or somethings is not up to specs or close to be out of specs is gonna take some effort to start but if you get lucky and you get it to run it should gain some comp but it will never be that good and you might have flooding issues and hot start problems.
try to install a fuel cut off switch and see if that help

 

Well i putt the oil in the leading spark plug holes and did an un flooding process but no start...Im going to check and see what are my psi numbers..

 

similar problem .. but im running a 300zx tt fuel pump with stock injectors and a microtech with basemap. So I am 99% I'm flooding immediately on startup. The cold weather definately plays a roll when flooding.

Whats your fuel setup looking like ?

 

crank for about 10 seconds strait and immediatly pull the plugs. if they are wet. its flooding bad. if they are EXTREME black. they are flooding still, but not so bad. you could have a weak spark.

try starting the motor using NGK B9ES spark plugs. they are only 2 bucks each. they are designed for jet skis, but they are the only plugs i run in my motors. VERY hard to foul them out. get 4 of them, there is no leading or trailing.

 

Walbro 255 lph stock injectors

 

well i check my L and T sprark pluggs are the stock Ngk's i had platinum ones but when i oil seal blowed up they where no realy re-usabe, the stock pluggs where not to bad when i pulled them out. im going to check my numbers psi in the morning...

 

Has anyone ever got a push start or pulled by another car to start the a new rebuild?

 

if the starter isnt starting it, then pulling it will not do it any good.

you might have a problem. compression check before you go any further.

 

Cool.... il check psi and get back to you guys... an another thing the Jdm fuel line are backwards does that mean the main fuel line for primary is the one closest to the fire wall???

 

the one with the vacuum to it is the regulator.

 

LOL im talking about the inlet for the fuel to the rats nest. its not the same of usdm to jdm rasts nest

 

ok guys i check my psi numbers and there are 100+ psi on both rotors... so i got good compression... anyone have some thing they add... i think that the engine is flooded.... cuz when i pull out the dip stick the oil is some what "waterie" is that because the fuel and oil mix... im prob going to change my pluggs and oil again

Im just happy cuz i got good psi)

 

Doesn't sound like you've narrowed it down to fuel OR spark /timing. Pull a plug. Does it smell like gas? If it's been cranking and not firing and smells like gas, you have a timing / spark problem. If it doesn't smell like gas you have a fuel problem.

 

is the oil white, or foamy?

check your plugs! this will tell you if its flooded...

 

THe oil isnt white or foamy... i just went and got my self some new ngks and oil... going to put them on..

 

so i have a timming spark plug problem... i took my ckp sensor line the gear to the ckp housing then i stab'd it in when the my timming mark was on the yellow strip on the crank pulley. i took the top off the ckp sensor then to see if it was in the correct position. when do i know when the crank pulley is in the correct position..?