Chewbaccsw5

So the car is a 1990 FC3S S5 T2, I bought it when it was needing a rebuild, got it rebuilt and I've just installed it. The PO disabled the ACV, removed the charcoal canister and the AWS. I removed the disabled ACV and blocked it off as well as removed the air pump. When I go to crank the engine it starts and idles very high at roughly 2600 RPMs and dies after a few seconds. Giving it gas or even turning on the lights while it is in the idle phase causes it to die as well. I've read and searched and under stand it could be the TPS or fast idle adjustment screw. When I try and turn the screw on the BAC it is hard to really see much of a difference because of the short time the vehicle is running. Any help?

SpeedOfLife

iTrader: (16)

http://boostpro.net/prodtester.html

Single Pop (Gauged)
With Male Compressor Coupler
$20 + $4.60 shipping

This tool, along with a compressor, will let you find damn near ALL your vacuum leaks, which can cause all kinds of problems. I'd start there.

misterstyx69

iTrader: (142)

did you unplug the Air flow Meter?..if so,it needs to be plugged in or it will start but die,every time.

Chewbaccsw5

Yes I plugged in the 5 port single row black branch of the harness to it..is that the only plug for it...when I bought the car the casing of the air flow meter (if im correct we're talking about the black square mazda box) was busted where the bolt things go in, so it can be pulled apart along the seams fairly easily...air could definitely be exiting the sides. Would this possible do it?

BenRX

I'm no expert but i'm sure it would be better to replace the airflow meter then see how it runs before you consider anything else.

Chewbaccsw5

well I adjusted the throttle screw because as I assumed the PO turned it up so that with a blown rear rotor it would idle fine...so now Im down to about 1500 rpms and can go lower but still have the 10 second idles.