The Wildchild

iTrader: (1)

Alright here is whats going on...

S5 TII into a 88 GXL
I have a redom N374 ecu and im still using the s4 under the dash harness

i followed this write up
https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-generation-specific-1986-1992-17/how-splice-s5-tii-engine-into-s4-chassis-703692/

where i seemed kinda confused was this

"Start off with the one with the wiper blade plugs find a ground to splice into then wrap some tape around it to hold it in place then start splicing in the needed wires for the second plug....you will have to run a wire off one of the black with white stripe wires and put it with the three wires that from the S4 #3 plug"

and

"In the end you should have a complete harness with the 4 wires for the battery,main relay, fuelpump relay,and starter swtich hanging out "

now 1a battery constant is tied into where 3j s4 ran to and IS getting 12.95 volts so it is receiving power.

s5 wire 1b battery constant is ran to the wire where 3j s4 wire met at on the fem2 plug

my 1b main relay i was sorta lost as 1b meets up with a B/W wire where it splits into two b/w wires so i didnt know if i needed to use both or 1 and if 1 what one do I use?

1c s5 ignition switch is ran to the b/l wire where 3b s4 met at

1k s5 fuel pump resistor relay ties into the b/w wire that 3d ran to off of the s4

now my head lights work, blinkers, and door open beeping works, but everything is dead no starter no fuel pump so im lost.

Any help will be greatly appreciated

satch

iTrader: (1)

Are you using the Interlock switch as part of the start circuit? Yea or nay?

Are you using the Starter Cut Relay? Yea or Nay?

The Wildchild

iTrader: (1)

to be honest I dont know, where would i look to see if they are there, or being used? Sorry I can turn wrenches, but couldn't plug a light in to save my life.

satch

iTrader: (1)

The relay I speak of has one plug w/four wires. Two Black/Green wires, Light Green/Yellow and a Black/White wire. This relay is located next to the Main Relay that has two plugs. If you do have this relay then the two B/G wires act as follows. One would have voltage w/key to on while the other has voltage w/key to start. See if you have this relay or not and if you do then check both of the B/G wires and see if they behave properly.

The Wildchild

iTrader: (1)

nothing to the wires with it to the on position and nothing when i hold it like im trying to start it

satch

iTrader: (1)

Your ignition switch might not be receiving power so this is one possibility. W/key to on do the blinkers or windshield wipers work?

The Wildchild

iTrader: (1)

blinkers dont work, wipers are removed. straight track car so nothing but what makes it go

satch

iTrader: (1)

You need to look at how the cable comes from the Main fuse on the side of the Engine fuse box that is closest to the firewall. The Black cable drops below the fuse box by about a foot and connects into another cable that runs to the ignition switch. To prove that the ignition switch is powered you can look at the plug w/a Black wire and a Black/White wire connected to the ignition switch along the steering column just under the dash. The Black wire in this two wire plug would have constant voltage to it.

The Wildchild

iTrader: (1)

HAHA k so back of the fuse block the wire off of the 80amp is gone. i have one that i think goes right there but it just has a clip that fits onto a flat barb that i plugged in and a covered circular clip that looks like it would go on the + for the alt or something

satch

iTrader: (1)

Don't you have another RX-7?

The Wildchild

iTrader: (1)

k so now it cranks, has spark, i can hear the fuel pump while it is trying to start but its silent while at the on position. does the CAS control spark, like since i have spark the CAS is working fine? and what does that round covered terminal go to?

satch

iTrader: (1)

The fuel pump only should work when the key is to start and not in the on position unless the engine was running. The CAS is responsible for sending input information to the ECU so it knows when to spark and inject fuel. Not sure which plug/round covered terminal you are talking about. And is the S5 engine a JDM or USDM?

The Wildchild

iTrader: (1)

JDM with the knightsport turbo, cause i read that the CAS had to be the s4 and i had to use the wires off of the original car and CAS or it wouldn't work. But since I am getting spark should I not worry about that?

satch

iTrader: (1)

The fuel lines are hooked up in an opposite manner relative to the U.S. versions. So your feed line is closest to the firewall and the return line would be farthest from the firewall just in case you forgot to take that into account.

The Wildchild

iTrader: (1)

wait so reverse them on the engine itself? cause I have the one off of the fuel filter going to the bottom rail and the top rail goes to the return line.

satch

iTrader: (1)

On a U.S. version the return line is closest to the firewall. If that is how you have it then it needs to be changed.

The Wildchild

iTrader: (1)

k so i go from the fuel filter to the upper rail an then take the return off and nothing comes out, if i run the line from the filter to the lower rail and then remove the line on the return it blasts out fuel so my flow is filter>lower rail> upper rail> return, that makes it usdm?

and also what is in control of making the injectors fire? and how can i test them?

cause everything seems to be working but it just cranks fast and nothing it doesnt even start to fire up.

dwb87

iTrader: (22)

My fuel rails are set up the same as yours, and my engine is a JDM. Where did you get your engine from? If it has the N374 ECU then it is JDM. Did it come with this N374 Redom ECU?

The ECU controls the injectors. If your injectors are not working, then there is something wrong with your wiring or the injectors are screwed. In your case, it seems like the wiring is messed up. Are you using a harness that your S5 engine came with or the USDM N/A harness that was in the car?

The Wildchild

iTrader: (1)

I got the engine from a friend who said he ordered it from a JDM supplier. and yea it has a redom N374, and the harness is from another car but its a USDM harness, and I have the injectors running right off the ecu nothing spliced or cut and i marked what went where when i removed the plugs. how could the wiring be messed up? grounds possibly?

dwb87

iTrader: (22)

What do you mean by this??

I wasn't sure if you had moved all of the pins to their correct positions at the ECU connectors or not. It would be SO much easier for you to just use an N332 or N333 ECU.

The Wildchild

iTrader: (1)

like the wires that come off of the injectors runs into the loom and goes into the ecu the only wires i had to splice was the coil wires, so i dont see how my injector wires could be hooked up wrong?

dwb87

iTrader: (22)

The S5 JDM TII N374 ECU and S4 USDM TII ECU's (N332 and N333) have different pins at the ECU, though. I thought there would be much more modification of the harness ECU connectors.

satch

iTrader: (1)

If the rats nest on the car which houses the hard fuel lines is off of a USDM car then the connections would be the same as any USDM car. If the return line was disconnected and placed inside a jug and the fuel check connector jumpered and key to on the fuel would come out in copious amounts.

One thing you might want to do is to check the ECU pin positions that relate to the fuel injectors. W/key to on all four of them should read 12 volts. Do yours? Pin 3W front primary, 3X front secondary, 3Y rear primary and pin 3Z rear secondary.

The Wildchild

iTrader: (1)

ok so all the 4 wires for the injectors have 12.02v, and when I undo the return fuel line it shoots out a lot of gas. now the question is if my engine is JDM or USDM considering it came with a RHD harness and the oil filter has zero english writing on it including the spark plugs i would say JDM. now the ECU and harness i am using it outta a USDM 1991 vert turbo swap, but im using the injectors that came with the car, should i try swapping injectors?

dwb87

iTrader: (22)

So, you have a USDM S4 GXL chassis, a JDM S5 TII engine, a USDM S5 N370 ECU, and a USDM S5 TII harness, and S4 460cc N/A fuel injectors? -- WHY?

You're making things WAY too hard on yourself.