finally got it together and running. Suprprisingly, it started right up on the first try.
I rebuilt the entire motor, my first rotary rebuild. Replaced all the parts on the rotors, one rotor housing and one iron. Rebuilt the throttle body. I basically took the engine and all the stuff attatched to ip apart, sandblasted and painted it. Replaced all the lines and hoses and rewrapped the wiring harnesses.
Only issues that I have are a check engine light which might be associated with a bad lowband TPS. Got a replacement for that coming and that might settle the bouncing idle problem.
It's still runs a little hot, and the oil pressure is on the low side about 50psi at 3000 rpm. drops to about 10psi or so when the car is warmed up at idle.
It's idling at about 1500 and I've tried adjusting the screw on the top of the throttle body, but it doesn't seem to have any effect. Could that be the fast idle adjustment or another TPS problem.
I'll try to post a pic or two later. I've read the article on breaking and I'll follow it religiously. Any advice or assistance on the problems I've listed?
Now, time to get busy on the S5 Turbo I'm rebuilding.

 

for the high idle issue, the throtle body might not be pushing the tps button fully back.

Push the tps button all the way back on idle and see if that makes a difference

 

sweet any pics of sandblasted/painted parts?

 

Here are some pics of the completed engine. Question about OMP. How do you know it's working? I don't see any oil coming up the tubes. The car isn't going into limp mode and drives fine just runs hot. About middle of the guage up to the edge of the banded zone and the oil pressure only gets up to about 40. Is this normal for a rebuilt motor? There are no fluid leaks anywhere and no oil in the coolant or coolant in the oil.

 

Very pretty engine bay.

When you rebuilt the motor what did you do with the eshaft thermo-pellet?

 

No. I used the one that comes in the atkins kit. It's a solid piece that takes the place of the thermo pellot.