s5 na harness repin
#1
Junior Member
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s5 na harness repin
I'm doing a jdm s5 swap and I'm just looking for all the information i can get on the modifications needed to the na harness to run the turbo engine. I've seen alot about needing to repin the knock and boost sensors but nothing in depth or any digrams or images. I also have the omp deleted and I heard ill need to do something about that on the harness but i have no clue. Any and all information would be helpfull
#2
Information Regurgitator
I don't think you have to repin the knock sensor. You just need to find the wire in the engine bay that connects to the "VDI Control Solenoid" and connect it to the knock sensor. Now if I understand your other thread right you have bought a car someone else has attempted to swap. That makes it more difficult. I'd guess your best bet is to find pin #2M look at the wire color and find it in the engine compartment. Use the continuity function on an ohm meter to verify you have the right wire then connect it to the knock sensor If the connector is different between the VDI control solenoid and the knock sensor you'll have to solve that but it's under the hood not repining at the ECU. As to the boost sensor there is nothing to change. The Boost(MAP) sensor uses the same plug and connects to the same pins on the turbo ECU. The sensor itself is different as the N/A one doesn't read boost. Hopefully the P.O. of your car has the turbo one in it as Mazdatrix shows it as NLA or discontinued. Same as on the Knock sensor you will need to reroute the wire connected to pin #3R to connect to the "Duty Solenoid Valve( Boost Pressure Control)"
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rlynchster (12-03-22)
#3
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could you elaborate more on "Same as on the Knock sensor you will need to reroute the wire connected to pin #3R to connect to the "Duty Solenoid Valve( Boost Pressure Control)" its got me kind of confused
#4
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its really simple, if you look at the wiring diagram, Foxed.ca - Mazda RX-7 Manuals
the S5 NA and the S5 T2 have the same ECU pinouts, except that the NA has solenoids for the VDI and the 6 ports. in its place the T2 has a Boost Control Solenoid and a knock sensor.
the boost control solenoid has a different connector style, but other wise would just plug in
the knock sensor is just the one wire, its really easy to make a little adaptor pigtail
you don't see any pics or anything, its more work to take the picture than it is to just do the wiring mod....
the S5 NA and the S5 T2 have the same ECU pinouts, except that the NA has solenoids for the VDI and the 6 ports. in its place the T2 has a Boost Control Solenoid and a knock sensor.
the boost control solenoid has a different connector style, but other wise would just plug in
the knock sensor is just the one wire, its really easy to make a little adaptor pigtail
you don't see any pics or anything, its more work to take the picture than it is to just do the wiring mod....
#5
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The one thing not mentioned here is you need to extend the wires for 1 or 2 sensors. I think for at least the tps, maybe also the air temp sensor. It’s been almost a decade since I’ve done this so I forget the exact details, but a search here will help or someone can chime in with the details.
#6
Information Regurgitator
Also I forgot the OMP. It has to be plugged in or the stock ECU goes into limp mode. The N/A and turbo models use the same OMP so you just have to find the connector for it and plug it in. If you don't want to use it and want to premix it still has to be plugged in and tied up somewhere out of the way in the engine bay.
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#8
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Sure the process is the same as I described for the knock sensor. Find the wire in the engine bay that connects to the "6-port induction system(solenoid)" and connect it to the Duty Solenoid Valve( Boost Pressure Control). find pin #3R look at the wire color and find it in the engine compartment. Use the continuity function on an ohm meter to verify you have the right wire then connect it to the Duty Solenoid Valve( Boost Pressure Control) If the connector is different you'll have to solve that.
Also I forgot the OMP. It has to be plugged in or the stock ECU goes into limp mode. The N/A and turbo models use the same OMP so you just have to find the connector for it and plug it in. If you don't want to use it and want to premix it still has to be plugged in and tied up somewhere out of the way in the engine bay.
Also I forgot the OMP. It has to be plugged in or the stock ECU goes into limp mode. The N/A and turbo models use the same OMP so you just have to find the connector for it and plug it in. If you don't want to use it and want to premix it still has to be plugged in and tied up somewhere out of the way in the engine bay.
#9
Information Regurgitator
That's a good question. I would say try to find a used one and buy it. Stock ECU won't run without it. New ones cost as much as a decent standalone ECU and more than some. If you can't find a OMP a standalone may be your only option. Unless you can find a used Rtek that has the OMP disabled. Rtek was a company that modified the stock ECU to be programed with a palm pilot but they don't do this anymore.
#11
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