ImportFanatic

iTrader: (1)

Ok, I did a TPS adjustment as recommended in my last post and went for a drive. Accelerated fine and drove normal then it bogged down hard, and sputtered and continued this for another 5 mins and then it died at a stop light. Got it going again and pulled into a parking lot to pull codes since the CEL was slapping me in the face the entire time. Codes pulled were:

3 - Crank Angle Sensor (G-Signal)
9 - Water Thermosensor
12 - Throttle Sensor (full range)
17 - Feedback System
18 Throtte Sensor (narrow range)

Needless to say I'm alittle surprised, I was expecting one or maybe two codes, not a handful.

Anyways, Code 9 I'm not worried about that one as I'm sure the little clip on the sensor is broken and came off. Code 17 is probably because I have a Bosch O2 Sensor in right now and they are notorious for throwing this code.

The Throttle Sensor codes confuse me as I adjusted the TPS to spec and even checked it to make sure the TPS was operating properly. I just checked it and the multimeter shows about 1200 ohms, which is abit high but still ok according to the FSM. From what I read on here I am supposed to be checking by the 1000, or should I be using a different setting?

Code 3 is new to me, how the hell do I check it and get rid of it. The car needs to be timed but would that cause this?

ANY help would be appreciated.

Turbonut

iTrader: (1)

Didn't know the factory FSM indicated ohms, thought it was volts, but in any event do a final check with the check connector using a MM, or test light, to see if TPS set correctly. If you have the FSM, you'll see that only 1 combination would indicate power, which then would verify correct setting. If 0 power, or both have power, the TPS must be reset.

ImportFanatic

iTrader: (1)

That was pretty much what I did. The TPS is set to have only one terminal with power, which if you read it out with a multimeter comes out to 1.2V or 1200ohms. FSM indicates tha a spread of .8 to 1.2V is normal but most people on this board say to set at 1.0 or 1000 which would be common sence.

Turbonut

iTrader: (1)

That is correct, but have found that a final adjustment with the checker is needed. Have set too many with 1 volt/1k ohm and had a kickback when driving. Return to garage, TPS in range, put a MM on checker and find it needs adjustment. Used the checker for 3 years now, no problems.

ImportFanatic

iTrader: (1)

I'm willing to try anything at this point, this little S5 has been alot of headaches so far. I love my FCs but I'm ready to park this one in the ditch and spend money on the FD now. Thanks for the help so far. Any advice for the Code 3 thing?