Well ive been having the same stalling situation for a while. I resealed everything with rtv- from the block up to throttle body w/all gaskets also in place. Replaced AFM. Emissions removed. Car does the normal 3000rpm startup, so i know the bac valve is good, and i have bench tested it.

TPS resistance was measured to be OVER the limit on the narrow range, but right at the max limit on the full range. I know the TPS cuts the fuel upon deceleration, but could it be cutting it completely causing the stalling??

Would a resistor being burnt out on pin 2P have anything to do with stalling?
(the first resistor if you follow the trace inside the ecu.)

The tps is the last thing i can think of. Ive removed emissions, checked and rechecked that everything is sealed.

 

disregard what i said above about the tps ohms. Here is what i got for the resistance.

Narrow Range 1.03(Closed) 4.3(WOT)
Full Range 1.34(Closed) 5.13(WOT)

Factory Specs
-Narrow Range .8-1.2(closed) 4.0-6.0(WOT)
-Full Range .6-.9(closed) 3.4-5.1(WOT)

so the full range is over a good amount when closed; could tha cause the stalling?

I have set the tps using both the led method and setting it to 1ohm.

 

The water temp sensor on the back of the water pump was also replaced by the "stealership" not even a year ago.

Ive checked the gap at the main butterfly in the TB and its fine. Set the fast idle cam also.

I can hold the engine steady anwhere above 2k rpm, but under that, the throttle response to hold it steady is basically gone and it stalls.

After reving the engine and letting off the gas, the tach just drops straight to 0; with an occasionaly sputter back up to around 3-400 rpm before stalling

I really need some advice from someone who knows what they are talking about with the S5 TPS.

 

The TPS doesn't cut the injectors, the ECU does. The TPS just tells the ECU when the throttles are closed. The ECU turns the injectors back on at 1500rpm regardless of throttle position. The TPS is not your problem.

Pin 2P is the relief solenoid valve. I can't see that affecting anything other than emissions.

Are you sure it's not a vac leak? That's what it sounds like. Have you checked the intake duct for cracks or loose fittings?

 

check all of the UIM vac lines. Replace the nipples and hoses since they are so cheap.