blackrotary23

so i figured i would try to make this as simple as possible.

i have a 91 n/a chassis with all TII parts under the hood and a TII fuel pump, TII ecu.

i want to use the N/A wire harness for the TII ecu but i cannot find anything about it for the life of me.

i pretty much just need to know how to rewire the harness to work with my ecu to get my car running right.

my wife is getting shitty at me for messing with this so she had me make a new post to narrow things down a bit. please do not get upset with me for i am just trying to do my best with what i have, thanks everyone in advance!

RotaryRocket88

iTrader: (7)

Have you never noticed my sig?

blackrotary23

what is 6PI and VDI? what does it mean to "plug" 6PI connector into ECU pin 3R? dont you have to cut the wires then wire them in? and for 2), i dont have a knock sensor being used.

1) Plug 6PI connector into turbo duty solenoid (ECU pin 3R)
2) Cut VDI plug off and connect ECU-side wire (Y/B) to knock sensor (ECU pin 2M)


and which wire do i need to disable for the fuel pump resistor?

There's another wire that on a TII goes to a fuel pump resistor but not on a NA so disable that wire too.


what if i am not running emissions at all?

Pin 2K is for the split air solenoid on NAs, but for the twin-scroll solenoid on turbos. If keeping emissions, a J-spec ACV does not use a split air solenoid, which will free this wire up for the twin-scroll system. I suggest using the S5 turbo and manifold however, so you can forget this system altogether.


i am running an automatic n/a harness, so what do i do with this wire on the automatic harness?

Pin 3D is for the fuel pump resistor/relay on turbos, but is unused on manual NAs. However, on Automatic NAs, it runs to the inhibitor switch. But lets face it, no ones converting to turbo and using an AT transmission . So the wire at this pin can really be ignored in most cases.


i am using this type of ecu >
chipped N374 J-spec ECU

blackrotary23

do you see why i am getting confused with this? this stuff makes no sense to me at all. i am a hands on type of person where as pictures help me more than anything.

K-Tune

iTrader: (26)

Judging by your posts you aren't capable of doing this. Pay someone else to do it for you or do something else. Seriously. Your threads are cluttering up the forum and you're going nowhere fast.

RotaryRocket88

iTrader: (7)

Ok....I'll give this a shot.

1) 6PI = Aux. ports = 5th/6th ports. The brown plug on an NA emissions (EM) harness. If you're using the turbo duty solenoid (OEM boost controller), cut this plug off and stick spade connectors on each wire. Plug them into the turbo duty solenoid. If not, ignore it.

2) VDI = variable dynamic intake. The white plug on an NA EM harness. If you have a knock sensor on the block, cut this plug off and connect the Y/B wire to the sensor. If not, ignore it.

3) Extend the TPS wires if they won't make it to the TB.

That's it. Everything else just plugs in and works.

I don't know what you're trying to do here. Fuel pump rewire maybe? This is unrelated to a turbo swap, and I'm honestly unsure you're ready for it.

This is S4 information. Most of that thread is S4, but I included S5 wiring info in post #4.

Manual or auto doesn't matter.

More S4 info. Unrelated to S5s.

blackrotary23

ok then, so your saying that if i am not using in 1) and 2) then it should be a plug and play? if thats the case, then my car doesnt want to run at all with the plug and play method.

joeylyrech

iTrader: (11)

S5 are really simple,is mostly PNP.

blackrotary23

well then why is my car not running and driving if it is so simple to just plug and play? trust me, i have tried everything and this ****** doesnt want to run worth of ****. and when it does, it runs like crap and stalls. then when i try to restart it, it acts like it is flooded really bad.

before i put the turbo on it, it ran fine. but somehow, with just adding the turbo to the side of the motor, it changed the way it ran all together.

joeylyrech

iTrader: (11)

Is this a turbo swap or a NAT hybrid?Details?

joeylyrech

iTrader: (11)

Okay i just look at your first post and to my understand is NAT.
Do you have all the matching sensors?MAF,MAP and T2 ecu?
Did you rewire the pump?
Did you use T2 injectors(they might be leaking)
Got rid of emissions?
Vacuum leaks?
OMP plug in.

blackrotary23

what do you mean "rewire the pump?" nobody told me i had to rewire my fuel pump.

also, yes the sensors match, yes they are TII injectors that are "not" leaking, and yes the emissions are gone. no vacuum leaks and the omp is plugged in.

joeylyrech

iTrader: (11)

You dont have to,just trying to see what else was done before the turbo conversion.

blackrotary23

i have the following:

TII modded lower intake manifold to fit 6 port
TII upper intake manifold and throttle body
TII tps
TII ECU
TII maf
TII boost sensor
TII fuel pump
TII fuel rails and injectors (550cc)
TII stock turbo and manifold
N/A wire harness

Everything is S5. i checked my spark plugs and 3 of them were clean as a whisle and soaked in gas. they are brand new. i am getting spark because i checked the coils.

when i finally get it started, it runs so rich that smoke flows constantly out the exhaust and it runs kinda erratic. it wont idle on its own and when it stalls, it wont start back up at all. i dont know what to do with this situation.

blackrotary23

ok, so i checked everything under the hood. i am getting great fuel pressure, spark on all 4 coils through the wires to the brand new plugs, omp is working correctly, and i cleaned every single electrical connector with electronics cleaner and even replaced the thermo sensor on the back of the water pump (again to make sure it is good). below is a picture of what my spark plugs looked like after i took them out.

front trailing- completely clean with blackened inner tip
rear trailing- completely clean with blackened inner tip
front leading- semi colored surface with blackened inner tip
rear leading- normal

the two trailing plugs were completely soaked, the front leading was semi wet but looks like it was trying to work, and the rear leading looks to be working properly.

what would cause this to happen? could it be my ecu not working properly? i cant even read the N*** number on it to identify what ecu it is. it is for s5 and has been chipped by knightsports. at least that is what is on the outside of it. i think it might be an N374 ecu and not an N370.

joeylyrech

iTrader: (11)

JDM Ecu?For some unknown reason some jdm ECUs wont work on USDM cars,one of the injectors wont fire and the car will run like ****.If the ecu was shipped for a different setup than yours(bigger injectors,turbo ect ect)is another issue that you have to deal with 2 so my opinion is get a S5 USDM ecu and try it.

blackrotary23

know where i can get an N370 ECU? i cant find one for a reasonable price, nor for the fact that i cant even find one at all.

RotaryEvolution

iTrader: (30)

n370 ECUs are rather difficult to find, especially for a reasonable price. there is one on the las vegas craigslist for $150 however.

if it has been chipped by knightsports it may be setup for something far more than your car needs so it may be a good idea to find the correct, stock, USDM n370 ECU.

otherwise only thing i can think of is you have an issue with the water thermosensor circuit which will cause the engine to default to a rich condition(although it should run ok while cold it will run way rich when warm so i'm not sure that this is actually your issue).

blackrotary23

replaced it already. i have another one that i took out last night....so, both of them are still in good working order, both brand new.

HAILERS2

Get rid of the N374. I'd almost guarantee that is the problem. Almost.

Just hooking up the non turbo harness to the engine without making any wiring changes should have resulted in a more than less normal runing car.........if using Turbo afm/boost sensor and USA ECU.

I've no solutions for where to get one though. Just here to re enforce the idea of the N374 being the problem. Lots of N374 threads when doing a Search on this site. Most all, but not all are negative vs the N374 JDM ECU.

blackrotary23

what do you mean? using the stock harness with the 374, using it with the turbo II electronics under the hood, or just using the stock harness in general?

blackrotary23

i am not running ANY emissions, so there should be no harness mods from what i heard through multiple resources on this forum.

joeylyrech

iTrader: (11)

just plug in the non turbo stock ecu and see if the car runs.

nycgps

iTrader: (4)

Found my answers. hmm decisions ...

S5 NA Engine, oil control ring dead, cuz it has been smoking like crap and I took the engine out, sat over the weekend, turn the engine by hand the oil almost "squirt" out of the exhaust ports. yuck.

should I do the swap ... hmm ...

blackrotary23

it does not run with the stock ecu. already tried.