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S5 N/a and the air pump.

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Old 06-12-04, 05:39 PM
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S5 N/a and the air pump.

Ok I know that the S5's use the air pump to open up the aux ports and the VDI. I'm about to remove the exhaust and install the true duals. But I wanted to remove the ACV/air pump while I was at it. But I remembered this stuff. My true duals are for S4's so they have a pressure line comming off of them to open the stock S4 aux ports. Is there any way I can use the air line off the duals to open the S5 ports and VDI?


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Old 06-12-04, 06:55 PM
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Old 06-12-04, 07:10 PM
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how many of your 9000 posts are bumps in like an hour or less . . .

I ask because it seems you do this all the time.
Old 06-12-04, 07:23 PM
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He does. Yes, you can use the backpressure to activate both, just plumb the vac line into both the aux port actuator and the VDI. You'll need the solenoids still however.
Old 06-12-04, 08:17 PM
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Originally posted by Mr. Gadget
how many of your 9000 posts are bumps in like an hour or less . . .

I ask because it seems you do this all the time.
I don't know. Try counting them. I offered to clean up the forum to the mods but they said no. I would have deleted useless posts like bumps and multi posts that never get deleted even when asked to be deleted. I have several times double posted and I edit the text and ask for deletion and its never deleted. Nag the mods for me to be made janitor of the FC section and I can go clean all that **** up.


Thanks sonikrat


For posting on topic.




Santiago
Old 06-12-04, 09:26 PM
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Originally posted by Mr. Gadget
how many of your 9000 posts are bumps in like an hour or less . . .

I ask because it seems you do this all the time.
how many of your posts are as full of information as this one?

Btw santiago, I removed my ACV etc etc, but ileft the airpump for the VDI. Why do you wanna rid yourself of the airpump? extra HP eh?
Old 06-12-04, 10:44 PM
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Well I just don't like a cluttered engine bay. And I am used to BARE BONES type setup as in my 87 Sport and soon in my 89 TII. I like to run it with only what is needed for speed.

I think I am going to block off the ACV and remove the A P after all. All I have to do is hook the true duals to the actuators and to the VDI solenoid. I just hope I have enough "T"'s do do it. lol. I'm half way done installing the True duals I just have to fit all the new stuff on and re-install the stock intake setup then i'm good to go. But I am going to do the runs tommorow because it wouldn't be fair to the semi-stock exhaust as it has cooled down significantly. I'll test the duals out around 2-4 in the afternoon tommorow to best replicate this afternoon's sun.


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Old 06-12-04, 11:36 PM
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Originally posted by DEZERTE
how many of your posts are as full of information as this one?

Btw santiago, I removed my ACV etc etc, but ileft the airpump for the VDI. Why do you wanna rid yourself of the airpump? extra HP eh?
well lets see - 3 or 4 are full of smart **** bullshit the balance are thread related - oops up to 4 or 5

And at my old age I would not want to be considered a liberal so . . .

I agree, keep the air pump for the VDI, you will be happier. I tried going the other way on my 91, what a PITA. ended up putting it back on.
Old 06-13-04, 12:10 AM
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Originally posted by 1987RX7guy
Well I just don't like a cluttered engine bay. And I am used to BARE BONES type setup as in my 87 Sport and soon in my 89 TII. I like to run it with only what is needed for speed.

I think I am going to block off the ACV and remove the A P after all. All I have to do is hook the true duals to the actuators and to the VDI solenoid. I just hope I have enough "T"'s do do it. lol. I'm half way done installing the True duals I just have to fit all the new stuff on and re-install the stock intake setup then i'm good to go. But I am going to do the runs tommorow because it wouldn't be fair to the semi-stock exhaust as it has cooled down significantly. I'll test the duals out around 2-4 in the afternoon tommorow to best replicate this afternoon's sun.


Santiago
ARe you going to remove the 6pi system? you might as well if you are goign to do extensive mods, and at the same time you can port match your entire intake. kill a few birds with one stone.
Old 06-13-04, 01:18 AM
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NO I am not going to remove the aux system or the VDI. They provide drivability which is what I need right now. And I don't like having NO tq as we already only have very little.
Old 06-13-04, 01:48 AM
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removing the 6pi doesnt steal torq like it does if you wired it open. It gives you more top end power depending on your mods, i speak from experience!
Removing the VDI wouldkill your power... I was testing mine, and set it to open at 3000rpm, and it was terrible.
Old 06-13-04, 01:58 AM
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Originally posted by DEZERTE
removing the 6pi doesnt steal torq like it does if you wired it open.
Um, yes it does. It's exactly the same thing. The ports are esentially "open" when they should be closed, so the effect is the same.

Santiago, if you want operation 6PI and VDI systems, leave the air pump and ACV exactly as they are. There is no good reason to remove them. No DIY system you can come up with will work any better than the stock method.

I know it'll be hard, but you need to get over your fixation with removing useful things from the engine bay.
Old 06-13-04, 02:00 AM
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Originally posted by NZConvertible
Um, yes it does. It's exactly the same thing. The ports are esentially "open" when they should be closed, so the effect is the same.

Santiago, if you want operation 6PI and VDI systems, leave the air pump and ACV exactly as they are. There is no good reason to remove them. No DIY system you can come up with will work any better than the stock method.

I know it'll be hard, but you need to get over your fixation with removing useful things from the engine bay.
I guess the concept is still thte same, but it still differs
Old 06-13-04, 02:05 AM
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btw, after i removed my aux port valves etc, i didnt notice any difference in low end power, only increase in top end.. But i also ported my upper exten. and lower manifolds as well...
Old 06-13-04, 02:17 AM
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Originally posted by NZConvertible
Um, yes it does. It's exactly the same thing. The ports are esentially "open" when they should be closed, so the effect is the same.

Santiago, if you want operation 6PI and VDI systems, leave the air pump and ACV exactly as they are. There is no good reason to remove them. No DIY system you can come up with will work any better than the stock method.

I know it'll be hard, but you need to get over your fixation with removing useful things from the engine bay.

We shall see. if I am correct in my theory of how to hook it up it should be fine and work properly.

I have one more question though. How much PSI does the VDI need to operate?
Old 06-13-04, 02:57 AM
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Originally posted by NZConvertible
No DIY system you can come up with will work any better than the stock method.

I know it'll be hard, but you need to get over your fixation with removing useful things from the engine bay.

you need to get over your fixation with thinking that everything mazda put on the car NEEDS to stay in it. some crap just isnt very usefull (like the airpump) and if someone understands the trade-offs for removing something, who are you to tell them its wrong?

Santiago: do a search under my name for a thread on lumbar pump aux/vdi activation. its simple, ellegant, and you cant tell the difference from the stock activation unless you pop the hood.

it may not be any better, but it certainly is no worse, and you get a weight/power savings.

itl only cost you about 20-30 bucks too.

Last edited by andrew lohaus; 06-13-04 at 03:01 AM.
Old 06-13-04, 06:44 AM
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Originally posted by andrew lohaus
you need to get over your fixation with thinking that everything mazda put on the car NEEDS to stay in it.
Ha! How about you explain the big box sitting under my workbench filled with bits I've pulled off my car...

I like to modify intelligently. I remove the things that are no longer useful or required, and leave the things that work perfectly and are beneficial.
some crap just isnt very usefull (like the airpump)...
If the air pump isn't very useful, then why did you need to rig something to replace it? Sounds like it was very useful.
...if someone understands the trade-offs for removing something, who are you to tell them its wrong?
When did I say it was wrong? Read it again; I said there was "no good reason". Big difference.

You guys have missed my point. What are the advantages to rigging some system to replace the air pump? Where's the improvment? Where the extra performance? What's the point?! The system works perfectly as it is, so why mess with it? You can't seriously mention a weight advantage, when you still have to add stuff to replace the air pump. In the grand scheme of things the air pump's weight is negligible, so any weight savings are tiny. You'd add at least ten times the air pump's weight just filling the tank.
Old 06-13-04, 08:45 AM
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Originally posted by NZConvertible
Ha! How about you explain the big box sitting under my workbench filled with bits I've pulled off my car...
i consider the airpump an inteligent piece to remove. granted, i did need to rig something to replace it, but it still effected a weight and power savings (however small, which for me made it worthwhile).

apperently you recognize that removing bits here and there can add up to weight sazings, but why draw the line at the air-pump and other stuff if they can be replaced with lighter substitutes, or someone just plain doesnt want/need it in their car anymore?

besides, i thought long and hard to make the simplest/lightest substitute for the airpump posible (that still maintined oem level of function) before removing mine.

some just enjoy the chalange of re-engineering their cars, regardless of if that means replicating stuff that already worked fine.

isn't that the poit of modding anyway?--making the car better suit your tastes?

Last edited by andrew lohaus; 06-13-04 at 09:00 AM.
Old 06-14-04, 04:56 AM
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If you like to perform engine mods that have no noticable or measureable advantage that's fine. Each to his own, but if I owned a S5 NA (the only model worth keeping the air pump on) I'd be spending my time finding ways to actually make it faster...
Old 06-14-04, 09:27 AM
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The stock NA air pump is just fine - But the mounting bracket is a POS.
I've broken two of them.
I got tired of that - So I went electric.

On my turbo with gutted cats - the air pump is not needed at all.
Old 06-14-04, 09:47 AM
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Talk about flogging the dead horse. His questions were answered, the end. No need to get his postwhoring skills a flying as he replies aimlessly to every word you guys say, regardless of how off-topic it is! And for my on-topic reply! The vdi opens at around 2.2psi (least mine did) And for DZERETE, you really shouldn't give people advice just yet, you're still waaay too far behind for that. As for andrew, chances are your 'electronic' setup burns off more HP from the extra load it places on the alt than what you gained from removing it. As for weight savings, hurrah for the 2lbs you could shave off running a couple miles! Not to mention we all know electronics tend to fail a bit more than mechanical. Oh well...
Old 06-14-04, 10:05 AM
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Sureshot’s cheapskate maintenance chart______________
1) Do I need this part for performance or looks? If not remove it & discard.
2) Can I fix it myself? (Bondo or epoxy, or some home made bracket.)
3) Will a working used part do the job? If so check local parts monger, this forum's for sale/wanted, salvage yards, eBay.
4) For new parts - This Forum's sponsors, Mazdatrix, NAPA, MAZDA.
Old 06-14-04, 02:44 PM
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Originally posted by SonicRaT
As for andrew, chances are your 'electronic' setup burns off more HP from the extra load it places on the alt than what you gained from removing it.

it only pulls about 3-5 amps or less. as for how much power that is off the alternator as compared to the airpump. iduno.

im not saying EVERYONE should go out and pull the air pump off NOW. but 20 bucks and an excuse to wrench on the car was good enough for me.
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