S5 N/a and the air pump.
#1
S5 N/a and the air pump.
Ok I know that the S5's use the air pump to open up the aux ports and the VDI. I'm about to remove the exhaust and install the true duals. But I wanted to remove the ACV/air pump while I was at it. But I remembered this stuff. My true duals are for S4's so they have a pressure line comming off of them to open the stock S4 aux ports. Is there any way I can use the air line off the duals to open the S5 ports and VDI?
Santiago
Santiago
#4
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He does. Yes, you can use the backpressure to activate both, just plumb the vac line into both the aux port actuator and the VDI. You'll need the solenoids still however.
#5
Originally posted by Mr. Gadget
how many of your 9000 posts are bumps in like an hour or less . . .
I ask because it seems you do this all the time.
how many of your 9000 posts are bumps in like an hour or less . . .
I ask because it seems you do this all the time.
Thanks sonikrat
For posting on topic.
Santiago
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Originally posted by Mr. Gadget
how many of your 9000 posts are bumps in like an hour or less . . .
I ask because it seems you do this all the time.
how many of your 9000 posts are bumps in like an hour or less . . .
I ask because it seems you do this all the time.
Btw santiago, I removed my ACV etc etc, but ileft the airpump for the VDI. Why do you wanna rid yourself of the airpump? extra HP eh?
#7
Well I just don't like a cluttered engine bay. And I am used to BARE BONES type setup as in my 87 Sport and soon in my 89 TII. I like to run it with only what is needed for speed.
I think I am going to block off the ACV and remove the A P after all. All I have to do is hook the true duals to the actuators and to the VDI solenoid. I just hope I have enough "T"'s do do it. lol. I'm half way done installing the True duals I just have to fit all the new stuff on and re-install the stock intake setup then i'm good to go. But I am going to do the runs tommorow because it wouldn't be fair to the semi-stock exhaust as it has cooled down significantly. I'll test the duals out around 2-4 in the afternoon tommorow to best replicate this afternoon's sun.
Santiago
I think I am going to block off the ACV and remove the A P after all. All I have to do is hook the true duals to the actuators and to the VDI solenoid. I just hope I have enough "T"'s do do it. lol. I'm half way done installing the True duals I just have to fit all the new stuff on and re-install the stock intake setup then i'm good to go. But I am going to do the runs tommorow because it wouldn't be fair to the semi-stock exhaust as it has cooled down significantly. I'll test the duals out around 2-4 in the afternoon tommorow to best replicate this afternoon's sun.
Santiago
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#8
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Originally posted by DEZERTE
how many of your posts are as full of information as this one?
Btw santiago, I removed my ACV etc etc, but ileft the airpump for the VDI. Why do you wanna rid yourself of the airpump? extra HP eh?
how many of your posts are as full of information as this one?
Btw santiago, I removed my ACV etc etc, but ileft the airpump for the VDI. Why do you wanna rid yourself of the airpump? extra HP eh?
And at my old age I would not want to be considered a liberal so . . .
I agree, keep the air pump for the VDI, you will be happier. I tried going the other way on my 91, what a PITA. ended up putting it back on.
#9
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Originally posted by 1987RX7guy
Well I just don't like a cluttered engine bay. And I am used to BARE BONES type setup as in my 87 Sport and soon in my 89 TII. I like to run it with only what is needed for speed.
I think I am going to block off the ACV and remove the A P after all. All I have to do is hook the true duals to the actuators and to the VDI solenoid. I just hope I have enough "T"'s do do it. lol. I'm half way done installing the True duals I just have to fit all the new stuff on and re-install the stock intake setup then i'm good to go. But I am going to do the runs tommorow because it wouldn't be fair to the semi-stock exhaust as it has cooled down significantly. I'll test the duals out around 2-4 in the afternoon tommorow to best replicate this afternoon's sun.
Santiago
Well I just don't like a cluttered engine bay. And I am used to BARE BONES type setup as in my 87 Sport and soon in my 89 TII. I like to run it with only what is needed for speed.
I think I am going to block off the ACV and remove the A P after all. All I have to do is hook the true duals to the actuators and to the VDI solenoid. I just hope I have enough "T"'s do do it. lol. I'm half way done installing the True duals I just have to fit all the new stuff on and re-install the stock intake setup then i'm good to go. But I am going to do the runs tommorow because it wouldn't be fair to the semi-stock exhaust as it has cooled down significantly. I'll test the duals out around 2-4 in the afternoon tommorow to best replicate this afternoon's sun.
Santiago
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removing the 6pi doesnt steal torq like it does if you wired it open. It gives you more top end power depending on your mods, i speak from experience!
Removing the VDI wouldkill your power... I was testing mine, and set it to open at 3000rpm, and it was terrible.
Removing the VDI wouldkill your power... I was testing mine, and set it to open at 3000rpm, and it was terrible.
#12
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Originally posted by DEZERTE
removing the 6pi doesnt steal torq like it does if you wired it open.
removing the 6pi doesnt steal torq like it does if you wired it open.
Santiago, if you want operation 6PI and VDI systems, leave the air pump and ACV exactly as they are. There is no good reason to remove them. No DIY system you can come up with will work any better than the stock method.
I know it'll be hard, but you need to get over your fixation with removing useful things from the engine bay.
#13
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Originally posted by NZConvertible
Um, yes it does. It's exactly the same thing. The ports are esentially "open" when they should be closed, so the effect is the same.
Santiago, if you want operation 6PI and VDI systems, leave the air pump and ACV exactly as they are. There is no good reason to remove them. No DIY system you can come up with will work any better than the stock method.
I know it'll be hard, but you need to get over your fixation with removing useful things from the engine bay.
Um, yes it does. It's exactly the same thing. The ports are esentially "open" when they should be closed, so the effect is the same.
Santiago, if you want operation 6PI and VDI systems, leave the air pump and ACV exactly as they are. There is no good reason to remove them. No DIY system you can come up with will work any better than the stock method.
I know it'll be hard, but you need to get over your fixation with removing useful things from the engine bay.
#14
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btw, after i removed my aux port valves etc, i didnt notice any difference in low end power, only increase in top end.. But i also ported my upper exten. and lower manifolds as well...
#15
Originally posted by NZConvertible
Um, yes it does. It's exactly the same thing. The ports are esentially "open" when they should be closed, so the effect is the same.
Santiago, if you want operation 6PI and VDI systems, leave the air pump and ACV exactly as they are. There is no good reason to remove them. No DIY system you can come up with will work any better than the stock method.
I know it'll be hard, but you need to get over your fixation with removing useful things from the engine bay.
Um, yes it does. It's exactly the same thing. The ports are esentially "open" when they should be closed, so the effect is the same.
Santiago, if you want operation 6PI and VDI systems, leave the air pump and ACV exactly as they are. There is no good reason to remove them. No DIY system you can come up with will work any better than the stock method.
I know it'll be hard, but you need to get over your fixation with removing useful things from the engine bay.
We shall see. if I am correct in my theory of how to hook it up it should be fine and work properly.
I have one more question though. How much PSI does the VDI need to operate?
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Originally posted by NZConvertible
No DIY system you can come up with will work any better than the stock method.
I know it'll be hard, but you need to get over your fixation with removing useful things from the engine bay.
No DIY system you can come up with will work any better than the stock method.
I know it'll be hard, but you need to get over your fixation with removing useful things from the engine bay.
you need to get over your fixation with thinking that everything mazda put on the car NEEDS to stay in it. some crap just isnt very usefull (like the airpump) and if someone understands the trade-offs for removing something, who are you to tell them its wrong?
Santiago: do a search under my name for a thread on lumbar pump aux/vdi activation. its simple, ellegant, and you cant tell the difference from the stock activation unless you pop the hood.
it may not be any better, but it certainly is no worse, and you get a weight/power savings.
itl only cost you about 20-30 bucks too.
Last edited by andrew lohaus; 06-13-04 at 03:01 AM.
#17
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Originally posted by andrew lohaus
you need to get over your fixation with thinking that everything mazda put on the car NEEDS to stay in it.
you need to get over your fixation with thinking that everything mazda put on the car NEEDS to stay in it.
I like to modify intelligently. I remove the things that are no longer useful or required, and leave the things that work perfectly and are beneficial.
some crap just isnt very usefull (like the airpump)...
...if someone understands the trade-offs for removing something, who are you to tell them its wrong?
You guys have missed my point. What are the advantages to rigging some system to replace the air pump? Where's the improvment? Where the extra performance? What's the point?! The system works perfectly as it is, so why mess with it? You can't seriously mention a weight advantage, when you still have to add stuff to replace the air pump. In the grand scheme of things the air pump's weight is negligible, so any weight savings are tiny. You'd add at least ten times the air pump's weight just filling the tank.
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Originally posted by NZConvertible
Ha! How about you explain the big box sitting under my workbench filled with bits I've pulled off my car...
Ha! How about you explain the big box sitting under my workbench filled with bits I've pulled off my car...
apperently you recognize that removing bits here and there can add up to weight sazings, but why draw the line at the air-pump and other stuff if they can be replaced with lighter substitutes, or someone just plain doesnt want/need it in their car anymore?
besides, i thought long and hard to make the simplest/lightest substitute for the airpump posible (that still maintined oem level of function) before removing mine.
some just enjoy the chalange of re-engineering their cars, regardless of if that means replicating stuff that already worked fine.
isn't that the poit of modding anyway?--making the car better suit your tastes?
Last edited by andrew lohaus; 06-13-04 at 09:00 AM.
#19
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If you like to perform engine mods that have no noticable or measureable advantage that's fine. Each to his own, but if I owned a S5 NA (the only model worth keeping the air pump on) I'd be spending my time finding ways to actually make it faster...
#20
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The stock NA air pump is just fine - But the mounting bracket is a POS.
I've broken two of them.
I got tired of that - So I went electric.
On my turbo with gutted cats - the air pump is not needed at all.
I've broken two of them.
I got tired of that - So I went electric.
On my turbo with gutted cats - the air pump is not needed at all.
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Talk about flogging the dead horse. His questions were answered, the end. No need to get his postwhoring skills a flying as he replies aimlessly to every word you guys say, regardless of how off-topic it is! And for my on-topic reply! The vdi opens at around 2.2psi (least mine did) And for DZERETE, you really shouldn't give people advice just yet, you're still waaay too far behind for that. As for andrew, chances are your 'electronic' setup burns off more HP from the extra load it places on the alt than what you gained from removing it. As for weight savings, hurrah for the 2lbs you could shave off running a couple miles! Not to mention we all know electronics tend to fail a bit more than mechanical. Oh well...
#22
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Sureshot’s cheapskate maintenance chart______________
1) Do I need this part for performance or looks? If not remove it & discard.
2) Can I fix it myself? (Bondo or epoxy, or some home made bracket.)
3) Will a working used part do the job? If so check local parts monger, this forum's for sale/wanted, salvage yards, eBay.
4) For new parts - This Forum's sponsors, Mazdatrix, NAPA, MAZDA.
1) Do I need this part for performance or looks? If not remove it & discard.
2) Can I fix it myself? (Bondo or epoxy, or some home made bracket.)
3) Will a working used part do the job? If so check local parts monger, this forum's for sale/wanted, salvage yards, eBay.
4) For new parts - This Forum's sponsors, Mazdatrix, NAPA, MAZDA.
#23
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Originally posted by SonicRaT
As for andrew, chances are your 'electronic' setup burns off more HP from the extra load it places on the alt than what you gained from removing it.
As for andrew, chances are your 'electronic' setup burns off more HP from the extra load it places on the alt than what you gained from removing it.
it only pulls about 3-5 amps or less. as for how much power that is off the alternator as compared to the airpump. iduno.
im not saying EVERYONE should go out and pull the air pump off NOW. but 20 bucks and an excuse to wrench on the car was good enough for me.
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