Hey guys,
I'm trying to get my ABS pump taken apart to replace the o-rings as shown above, but i'm a bit stuck. As in, I can't even get to the M12 bolt to try and unbolt the thing because of the cap covering it.

I've tried vice grips, pliers + heat, and a mallet but made no progress other than marring the outside of it. I even tried using a dremel to cut it off but the metal is way thicker than I expected and I don't have the proper tools to do it. Any tips? I'm seriously considering just buying another pump (and I would have by now if they were easier to find)

Thanks

 

I just did this and am trying to remember what I used. I think I used a real hammer and screw driver. I bent it a little. I did not put this cap back on as it is not needed. Not sure why it was used to be honest. Heck take a drill and drill through that sucker if need be so you can pry it off. You cant hurt anything its just a cap. Do you have a vice? Is it out of the car? I had to use a vice to put the pump in so I could remove the M12 bolt. That sucker was really tight. Just telling ya what I think I did. I think I tried vice grips first as well and couldn't budge it it just scarred the outside. I would think the dremel would put a groove in you can use a screwdriver to pry it off as well.

 

Pretty sure I used vice grips and a hammer to get mine off. But I agree, you can get pretty violent with it if you don't mind not replacing it.

 

How you guys get the M12 bolt off?
Holy moly, I tired everything

 

an allen key and a swift hit from a rubber mallet broke mine free pretty easily.

 

The M12 was tough for me as well. I bought the Allen wrench that fit it and put it in a vice to get it off. I had use a breaker bar or pipe I think and it came off.

 

Read the post of abs rebuild with great interest. Feel like I have come late to the dance.
Told no replacements for Abs in US by Mazda Dealer. Extensive google search seems to confirm.
Looks like my option is remove it or rebuild.
How has the rebuild option stood up to time & does anyone know of the legal ramifications of removing in Illinois?
Great posts, looking forward to any and all replys.

 

Wyff,

First, welcome to the club. I see that you joined today. Second, please read this thread because it should answer the technical steps. Finally, the FC is thankfully not a Tesla product so the right to repair is yours. However, IL may have some unusual repair laws that may govern key safety items. I recommend using the search function or break out those mad google-fu skills.

Cheers,
George

 

This thread is excellent. Much appreciated.

So handy having the sizes of the orings before removing the pump.

 

Hi and thanks for this write up. I just got the ABS module out today. I used the info above to order the seals and they should be delivered in the next few days the supplier said. I just had a re-read of this now - seems i will need to get myself an M12 Allen wrench and expect it to be pretty tough to remove. Thanks to the OP and others who have contributed here. Excellent!

Pete!

 

you might try breaking that M12 loose before you unbolt the unit from the car.

 

Thanks, I did manage to hold the whole unit in a Vice bench and with a big extension pipe on my new M12 Allen key I got the big bolt loose. I had to destroy the little cap covering the M12 to get at it though.

Yet to dismantle any further. May get to that across the weekend.

Thanks.

Pete

 

If this is useful to anyone, I performed the exact same ABS unit rebuild with the exact same parts on my S4 10AE, here's some extra details that's worth mentioning:

For parts list you want:
- 1 17x2 (IDxCS) EPDM O-Ring
- 3 17x2.5 (IDxCS) EPDM O-Ring (NOTE: I used standard O-rings instead of X-rings or "quad-rings" because of lack of availability)
- 3 22x1.5 (IDxCS) EPDM O-Ring
- 3 4x2 (IDxCS) EPDM O-Ring
- 8 5x1.5 (IDxCS) EPDM O-Ring

Most of the EPDM o-rings you'll find are 70 durometer which is what I used, I also recommend getting a couple spares in each size (especially the 5x1.5). As mentioned above, I couldn't find EPDM 17x2.5 x-rings anywhere and didn't want to use Viton, Buna or other types of x-rings instead because I never want to have to crack open that module ever again, but so far the module doesn't leak at all and seems to be holding up fine to the pressure. It should be noted however; the "slot" that the 17x2.5 O-rings go is actually 23mm in diameter, so when you put the new one in, there will be space but it's important to mention, since it wasn't mentioned in the original post, that there is actually a small metal retaining ring placed above the top outer circumference of the original o-rings. This ring has a triangular-shaped cross section and when place around the replacement circular o-rings, it holds it pretty centred. This retaining ring guides the expansion of the o-ring when it's compressed by the solenoid when putting back together the assembly.

The rest of the guide is pretty well made and I didn't really find anything else worth mentioning. Like I said before, there doesn't seem to be any leaks anywhere, but if some develop, I'll make sure to update this. Good luck with your rebuilds!