uRizen

iTrader: (2)

Well, I finished bolting everything up this afternoon and have just been cleaning a few things and re-routing lines and checking for vac. leaks.

I also dug through the parts bucket and put together a cold air intake system that's much more stable then the old cone intake I had going on (it was held by one little aluminum bracket and some zip ties, very shaky.)

The car runs pretty well and after dinking around with the adjustments I got it to idle stabily. Power is just as good as it was with the S4 intake (the VDI isn't connected yet since I'm waiting to dig up an electric pump and RPM switch.) As soon as the VDI get's setup I'll be set.

Here's how it looks right now:





Here's where the intake goes through and the filter sits. I need to fab a sheet metal under-tray for the radiator so I figure I'll create a shield for the filter at teh same time. The brake duct was all screwed up (someone curbed the front of the car and bent the metal the duct sits on making it worthless) so I pulled it completely. I also need to get a good filter. This one is cheap and pretty worthless.





I haven't driven it long enough to cook the engine bay like usual, but I'm hoping this helps keeping it from bogging after 20 mintues of driving (it starts to noticably dog after extended driving.)



And here's where the BAC is drawing air from. I took the advice of the experts and kept the nipple on the intake.



I'm excited to get the VDI working and then pull soem more parts and clean/paint so the bay looks nice and shiny. The swap wasn't too bad at all. I started yesterday at 2pm and finished all the detail work at ~7pm tonight.

All I needed to get was the S5 UIM, dynamic chamber, and both fuel rails. I don't have any emission equipment so the vacuum routing was cake and only had to grind a small piece from the thorttle body and one from the rear iron for everything to bolt up. Oh, I also had to drill a new hole in the back of the UIM for mounting to the LIM.

Oh, here's the video of it idling. It idles alot higher then it did with the S5 intake (~950 rpm compared to 600rpm).

Click here to watch Movie4745

slicwily

your not worried about that air filter sucking up water

uRizen

iTrader: (2)

Nope.

There will be a shield protecting it from major debris and junk from coming up underneath. I'd also have to go through a pretty nasty puddle to suck up enough to reach the engine.

It's hard to hydrolock a rotary anyways. I have in fact done the water ingestion trick to clean the internals and it works like a charm and nor harm was caused.

I'm also not driving this car another winter and it only sees ~300 miles a month since I only drive it when I want to cruise around.

Jager

iTrader: (10)

Could the higher RPM be cause by the angle of the AFM?

Also, did you follow this guide for the swap?

http://homepage.mac.com/carldavis/intake/dis.html

uRizen

iTrader: (2)

My AFM was at the kind of angle before the swap and I didn't have a problem. I'll get teh idle figured out, but 950rpm isn't too bad.

I didn't follow that guide at all either since I wanted to set things up a bit differently. For instance, I used the S4 BAC, removed the other bypass-air thing for the A/C that goes into the dynamic chamber, I'm running the VDi off an electric pump and RPM switch, and I used the S4 LIM (just had to drill a new mounting hole in the back of the UIM like Icemark suggested.)

I can't wait to get the VDI actually working though, how much of a difference does it actually make?

Icemark

yeah that angle on the AFM will cause problems and make it hard to tune properly

The S4 AFM needs the be level or near level.

BDC

Good job, Urizen.

B

uRizen

iTrader: (2)

Hmmm... in that case I'll have to see about leveling it out some more. I think I'll have to cut that upper pipe back a bit at the bend.

Jager

iTrader: (10)

I heard like 11 HP off the dynos. But that was with a few other modifications 5-6. I seen them when I researching my VDI thoughts.

uRizen

iTrader: (2)

Ok, I moved the AFM to a new spot and everything should be cool now. The hood doesn't hit it and all I have left to do is tap the rubber coupling for the BAC feed and then cap the nipple that I was using.




Are there any problems you guys forsee with going this route? I've never seen anyone run the AFM this close to the TB (guess that mean s less places to leak after the AFM, right? ) so I want to make sure there's not some arcance tuning problem I'm going to run into. Thanks!

Dom_C

Looks good man. When i did this swap back in the day when i had my n/a i also added the racing beat header at the same time but i think the hp went from like 126ish to 138ish. These numbers are off the top of my head, it was quit a while ago when i did this though. I did notice a pretty goo dincrease while driving. I had the vdi hooked up to a toggle so i could open her up on demand it felt awesome to be in the upper revs and then open the vdi and feel the car pull like crazy. It was even more fun when i got the huge streetport ;-) But my n/a days are long gone. Good luck with the swap man. Oh and by moving the afm closer maybe you'll see a little bit better response? that'd be pretty cool. Good luck

uRizen

iTrader: (2)

Cool, good to here it was worth it and glad my setup isn't too ghetto. I can't wait to get the VDI working.

I do have the full Racing Beat exhaust including the collecting header so I'm hoping to get some decent power out of it.

uRizen

iTrader: (2)

I got everything re-routed for the new AFM position and it runs the same as it did before. I did some quick adjustments (the idle was a bit lower) and I'll have to play with it more tomarrow.

I learned a new trick today too. When starting a FC with the thermalwax removed it helps to hold the throttle down slightly for a few seconds, otherwise it seems to run way too rich starting up and struggles.

SonicRaT

iTrader: (6)

Icemark, is it possible to use the S4/S5 combos together with a small adapter (similar to what YearsOfDecay was making for the FD setup), or where the holes too far off? Since it seems that the S4 lim works quite a bit better than the s5.

MrSparkle

i used to have my air filter in the same location and it felt more responsive. but when it started raining i had to move it back. not because i was worried about hydrolock, but because the filter would get soaked which caused a restriction. i still think it's a good setup as long as it's not raining.

Icemark

No need for an adapter. Just need to redrill the S5 VDI/UIM on one hole.

SonicRaT

iTrader: (6)

Neat, should've searched for that thread of yours, but with how much you post it would've taken me a year!

Dom_C

yep, that's what i did as well. worked great.

RX-7tII88

iTrader: (1)

That setup looks sweet, nice work. Yeah I would think that it would suck in the rain though.

BlaCkPlaGUE

Nice work! glad you took our advice on the BAC

That position of the AFM is perfect, as for it being so close the plates I wouldn't worry about that being a problem.

I don't remember, but did how did you get the VDI and 6PI working? are they at stock RPMs? Did you use backpressure for activation and rpm switches or what?

uRizen

iTrader: (2)

Cool, thanks for the compliments.

The VDI isn't working ATM and my aux. ports are running off the back pressure as they always have and still work well.

I'm think of capping the split air line right after the spot it runs to the aux. ports and using two of the little vacuum solinoids that I pulled off the spider to regulate when the VDI and ports open. One of the local club members has a way to regulate which RPM electronics activate without buying a RPM switch and it's adjustable. I'll have to get together with him to see how he created the circuit.

I'm going to try capping the line and measuring the pressure first, then if it's above 8psi (just to be safe) from 3,000+ RPM I'll give that method a shot.

That way I don't have to muck with putting another piece of equipment in my bay and I can put some of that rotary exhaust to work.

NZConvertible

You only need 3psi to operate the VDI actuator. I'd be careful putting too much pressure on it's diaphram...

Tofuball

The problem I see is that it's directly over the exhaust manifold :p

But if it can take the heat, it's fine :p

Tofuball

I used 5PSI to actuate my ports and its still OK. But I wouldnt go too far over that :O

uRizen

iTrader: (2)

Cool, so I'll put a bleeder in the system too so if it's over 5psi or so I can crack it open a little to lower the pressure. Hehe, the trouble I go through to keep it low-tech.