Mint87RX7

i have been searching for days to make sure i did it right and now that i have it all together, its running like crap and it has to be a vac problem. when i start it i have to hold the gas down and once it starts it wont run below 2500. it also starts popping above 4500. i do not have the 5/6 or vdi working yet but that wouldnt cause it. problems i have right now that i need answered:
1 does anyone have a color vac diagram for s5? i have s4 but the s5 is much more complicated...
2 my egr block off plate might not have an air tight seal.
3 i ported my TB and took the plates off but did not do the full TB mod, coolant lines still connected.
4 egr exhaust line is open, the pipe running from exhaust to engine bay... how do you block that off
5 i do not know where the 2 vac lines on s5 uim in from of injectors go to so they are plugged
6 my 6th port sleeve, closest to front of car, could be facing wrong direction but again that wouldnt cause the problems.
7 what do i do with vac lines for agr silinoid? currently plugged
And if anybody has succesfully done the swap, i would solve my vac problems if you could explain how each line is routed or post some pictures of your setup

Thank you in advance for any help you can give me, i miss my car!

Icemark

This is what you should end up with on using a S5 intake on a S4 engine/ecu:

it needs too or you will have a major vac leak.
and so????
That is not the EGR line, but is called the Split Air Pipe, and you don't block it off... you need that pipe to actuate the aux ports unless you have swapping in air pressure control to them... as well as that pipe is needed to feed the cat converter from the air pump.
They are the air bleeds and tie into the air bleeds for the oil injectors to the intake tube between the AFM and the throttle body.

no it would not cause the problem, but still needs to be fixed
why???

gassrx

my turbo II does the same thing

poor_red_neck

#1: with my 88 block... I'm still using the s4 rat's nest... the VDI and 6 ports are the only thing that you would have to "re-route" and I have my 6 ports hooked directly to the airpump anyways. What do you plan on doing to activate the ports/VDI? Oh, and the air bleed sockets... but mine are capped ATM so I have no idea what to do with that

#2: Um... fix it? Use some high-temp loc-tite and block that **** off and dont worry about it. Do you know its leaking?

#3: Why? heh... take off the water thermo valve... there's no use for having it other than the cold assist idle BS. I call that my right foot

#4: I assume you mean the split air pipe? The one going from the cat to the engine bay/LIM? Or the vac line for the EGR vavle?

#5: Those are the air bleed sockets... mine are capped as well. Icemark has told me its not all that bad to leave them capped, but may be costing a little TINY bit of performance. I don't know where they are hooked upto... but as far as I can tell, its anywhere BEFORE the TB plates... atleast thats what the diagram in the FSM says.


#6:

#7: EGR? dunno, mine came blocked off

Once you sit down.. print out the S5 vac hose diagram about 24" wide and just STUDY it for like an hour, you'll go "OOOHHHHH YEAHAAAHHHHH!!! ITS ******* EASY!" Colored pencils, and "re-drawing" the vac hoses along helped me out alot.
If you don't already have the FSM... download it, atleast the fuel/emission section.

I know I probably didn't answer many questions... but hope I helped somewhat.

Mint87RX7

thank you icemark for the diagram! the reason i plugged the vac lines for agr silinoid is because i am using it to actuate the vdi so there are open lines.
i guess i got so confused when doing the swap i forgot a lot of stuff like the split air pipe, you should hear the exhaust when that is open lol sounds like my nitro rc car. what does that connect to? stupid question but im so frustrated i confused myself.
as for the air bleeds for the injectors, i broke an oil line during the swap so i decided to go to premix so i must have forgot how they where ran.

Mint87RX7

anyone have any opinions on witch problem could be causing my car to run like complete crap?

Mint87RX7

one more idea, could it be my TPS? im useing s5 TB but s4 TPS so the plugs would match up ive just been reading that you have to calibrate them and maybe that could be causing a problem i just didnt think it could be this severe

Icemark

You will want to use the S4 throttle body, and TPS. Half your problem could be just from the TPS adjusted wrong.

Mint87RX7

the problem here is that my freind tried to port the s4 TB while i was doing the s5 and he ported a hole in the side so now i have no s4 TB... The s4 TPS fits perfectly on s5TB, would i beable to adjust it? or should i take my girlfreinds TB of her s4 and say it was stolen

Icemark

how are you hooking up the MOP rod with a S5 throttle body???

Mint87RX7

well i had taken apart the pieces from both and put it together to fit the mop rod connector in there to but then like i said, i broke an oil line so i decided to take out the pump and premix

adamlewis

Just a quick guess because this is what my T2 was doing when it happened, but...Is your MAF connected and/or working properly? For me, it was "connected" but the ground wire had become severed somehow so it wasnt functioning properly. The car would start and run, but it took a lot of coaxing and it would stutter, pop, and backfire if you took the revs up too high.

Mint87RX7

MAF is connected ok, i checked all the plugs and wires as i was reconnecting everything. I think i might know whats going on... Are my s4 injectors compatible with the s5 intake? i am using my s4 primaries and secondaries?

Mint87RX7

bump, anyone know about the injectors?

Parastie

I wouldn't worry about the injectors at the moment. Check the things above before the injectors. The only thing you can do with them is have them professionally cleaned.

Mint87RX7

well i have the s5 injectors but the s5 i got all the parts from has a siezed engine so i figured mine would work fine and used them

Icemark

well if you used the high impedence injectors from a 87.5 and later in a pre 87.5 (which used low impedence injectors), then yes it might be an issue.

Dom_C

I"m having this exact problem right now. it will start but is really broken up and wont run below 2500. another question i have abotu this is if i were to remove the bac for simplicity at the monet how would i reroute the coolent line? would i run the line that comes off from the back of the water pump to the line that hookes into the firewall side of the throttle body? i will try the vaccum routing sugested earlier in this thread and then repost tomorrow or somthing. hopfully this will work. i'm excited about the vdi.

Icemark

vac leak

Dom_C

i can't find any vac nipples that arn't either capped or have a line running to them, i will remove my uim and tb again tomrrow and make sure they are sealed nicly. i have one question though. were you able to get a nut on the stud closest to the firewall? i drilled the hole and the stud goes through but there isn't enough clearence to get a nut on the stud, i'm afraid that by grinding anymore metal away on the side that i will make a hole in the uim. is there eally enough clearence to get a nut on there? and waht about the coolent line thing? thanks.

Icemark

before you remove anything, get some spray starting fluid and spray it around the intake. Any vac/intake leak will raise the RPM.

This will allow you to pin point the leak before you dis-assemble anything.

Dom_C

ok i will try that. i was reading the write up from carl davis i beleive and on his write up it said that you ahve to remove the egr vavle? but he also used the s5 lower. i'm using the s4 lower and it seems to clear fine. Did yours go together with out any issues when you did your icemark? or did you ahve to play with it and mess around with vac lines and junk too? thanks for all the help.
Dom

Icemark

I did use the S4 LIM... it is much larger than the S5 version and flows better.

However I did have to remove the EGR valve. With the stock S4 non turbo EGR, the EGR will hit the UIM, and raise the back end of the LIM/UIM mating point. That is probably why you have the vac leak.

I am working on a shorter EGR version so that the EGR can be used for emissions, but it might be months away before its done.

The Vac lines took a little work, but if you refer to the diagram that I posted earlier in this thread, it pretty much covers what works.

Remember the modification write up that is on Carls web page, later dyno testing proved to have turned out to drop HP through the mid range. There were also a few vac problems with that set up (like covering the injector air bleeds and hooking the oil air bleeds up to the wrong side of the throttle body).

Dom_C

i see. yea i was thinking about the egr thing. can i leave the egr in place and do some trimming? or do i have to get a block off plate and such. i don't care if it is functional i just dont want a vac leak. could i just trim off the top of it or something?

Icemark

can't trim the top without disturbing the membrain. You can only shorten the bottom. You would need to trim off about 3/16ths.