When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I'm needing some photography. I am trying to repair the door dinger/ security CPU for an S5 Turbo (should be same for all S5s). The capacitors had leaked and rotted a few other components. I replaced a resistor with what I thought was the correct resistance, but the thing was mostly rotten, and I want to confirm I have the correct one. Resistor is R23 on the big board, as I am pointing to in the photo. Photo is of board post capacitor and resistor replacement. Can one of you folks please take a quick picture of the correct resistor in a working unit please?
You're in luck...I just happened to have a spare S5 CPU in my trunk. That cap (C1) looks kind of funky on my board too. Maybe it's just soldering paste?
Sure do. Good thing I managed to guess right. I got mine working this morning.
Pretty sure it isn't soldering paste. My C2 was in just as bad of shape. On further inspection last night, that C1 capacitor had not only rotted R23, but ate the copper trace off the board beneath it. Nasty stuff. If you trace the circuits, that capacitor C1 and resistor R23 are on separate circuits, but both are involved in the power delivery to the computer chip. The trace underneath the capacitor runs along the right side of the board down to Q4 which is used as a voltage regulator. I was having no response with anything on the board. What I ended up doing was soldering a jumper wire on the back side from the remaining capacitor trace at C1, down to the middle terminal for the voltage regulator Q4. This got gremlins in all the right places. Had to make sure it didn't touch anything else and let the magic smoke out.
After seeing the rotten cap in this computer, I went through and replaced every single electrolytic capacitor in the car. ECU, Stereo Amp, Fan Amp, Gauges, CPU, Seat Belt, and Cruise Control. That made a huge difference. Many features that either didn't work, or worked poorly, are now fully functioning. I should have done this years ago. Took pictures on each and will post write-ups hopefully in the next couple weeks. I am waiting on a motor controller chip to replace in the cruise control computer. It was posting a short, and nothing else was shorted. The only short was an internal short from a motor output to ground. Controllers are $1.50 apiece, so its much better than having to buy the whole new cruise box.
Thanks for the picture. Let me know where you'd like that beer delivered.
Sure do. Good thing I managed to guess right. I got mine working this morning.
Pretty sure it isn't soldering paste. My C2 was in just as bad of shape. On further inspection last night, that C1 capacitor had not only rotted R23, but ate the copper trace off the board beneath it. Nasty stuff. If you trace the circuits, that capacitor C1 and resistor R23 are on separate circuits, but both are involved in the power delivery to the computer chip. The trace underneath the capacitor runs along the right side of the board down to Q4 which is used as a voltage regulator. I was having no response with anything on the board. What I ended up doing was soldering a jumper wire on the back side from the remaining capacitor trace at C1, down to the middle terminal for the voltage regulator Q4. This got gremlins in all the right places. Had to make sure it didn't touch anything else and let the magic smoke out.
After seeing the rotten cap in this computer, I went through and replaced every single electrolytic capacitor in the car. ECU, Stereo Amp, Fan Amp, Gauges, CPU, Seat Belt, and Cruise Control. That made a huge difference. Many features that either didn't work, or worked poorly, are now fully functioning. I should have done this years ago. Took pictures on each and will post write-ups hopefully in the next couple weeks. I am waiting on a motor controller chip to replace in the cruise control computer. It was posting a short, and nothing else was shorted. The only short was an internal short from a motor output to ground. Controllers are $1.50 apiece, so its much better than having to buy the whole new cruise box.
Thanks for the picture. Let me know where you'd like that beer delivered.
Sounds like you're pretty handy with the soldering iron.
What was your problem with the fan amp? My fan has been acting up recently. Sometimes it doesn't work, but will eventually kick-in after a while.
Relisys190, not off topic at all, welcome to the discussion. Same system. If you pull out that computer and look at it, it incorporates your key dinger, burglar alarm, and key illumination. If your systems aren't working properly, or at all, here's a good picture that I made to help me troubleshoot. This computer pretty much relies on limited voltage inputs, and most of the sensors or applications are voltage outputs. Voltage is supplied to the unit via these 3 pins in the picture. Pin 1 always has 12volts. Pin 2 has 12 volts with the key on. Pin 3 is your turn signal. It sends a low voltage, about 0-0.5 volts, switching on and off with the blinker. If you trace pin 3, you can see 3 transistors that look like a minor signal amplifier circuit feeding the CPU (my engineering degrees are not in electronics, so this can be wildly off. Use at your own risk). If your unit isn't working at all, trace the unit with a multimeter, starting with Pin 1 in the picture. Follow the flow, find the disconnect. Also check wiring loom to make sure you are getting power to those pins and then trace through the unit contacts with a multimeter. The CPU is covered with a goopy conformal coating that you will have to poke through to properly contact with the solder. In my case, the power was disconnected at the trace that ran under Cap 1. I put in a bridge wire to mend that circuit and it restored power to the whole unit.
Hot Dog, never underestimate a broke engineer, a modern form of "necessity is the mother of invention." This is a low budget repair and it was cheaper to teach myself a skill than pay someone else to do it. Also I couldn't find anyone in KC that actually does electronic repair. I called multiple places that had electronic repair listed (usually some guy's house), and none of them actually repaired electronics. I am pretty sure money laundering is more prevalent than we actually know. Anyways, the blower fan wouldn't turn the fan on in a smooth gradient, power regions of the fan switch didn't do anything. Also, kept burning out fan transistors. Got it running smooth and perfect. I'll try to get some write-ups made tonight on it for you.
Hot Dog, would you be able to check R1, the big resistor next to the C1 and R23? The one I have has disintegrated. I just need the resistance value. I'll post some pictures of the wreckage.
Ok, but it won't be until next week. I'm currently on my way to Road Atlanta for the 10 hour Petit LeMans road race this weekend. Looks like RA dodged a bullet this Saturday with the potential rainfall from hurricane Ian. Hardly any rain forecast now.
Hot Dog, would you be able to check R1, the big resistor next to the C1 and R23? The one I have has disintegrated. I just need the resistance value. I'll post some pictures of the wreckage.
Thanks a bunch!
Top two bands are Red & Red, but in the photo they don't look exactly the same. Must be the lighting. So, looks like Red Red Gold Gold which would be 2.2 Ohms with a 5% Tolerance. I don't know why the top is painted? Unless, it's there to serve as an insulator for that top lead.
