s4 tII rebuild, starts up and then dies
#1
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s4 tII rebuild, starts up and then dies
i have an s4 tII which i'm having problems starting my rebuild. motor is bareblocked and i modded the throttlebody.
the motor is getting air, fuel, and spark. compression is good.
it starts up just fine.
but the problem is that it dies about a second after you let off the ignition/starter.
my first assumption was that it was a vaccum leak, so i made sure my gaskets were good(which are new), everything was tight, and that everything that requires vaccum or what needed to be capped was good(caps are new, hoses are new).
my second assumption was that there was a problem with my ignition. before i bought the car as just a rolling chassis, the car was obviously stolen. because where you put the key in the ignition was tore up, and the plastic/wire bit of the igniton was hanging out. so thats what i've been turning the car over with. there's a button that is pressed inside the key part of the ignition when you turn it over, so i thought maybe it was a sensor and had to be pressed in. tried that with my finger, didnt work, tried pressing it in with a key, still same results.
maybe i need to ground something else out? i just hate dealing with wiring, and suck with wiring, but i'm only hoping the ignition is the problem.
any help or any other suggestions will be extremely appreciated. i might have easily overlooked something but i have gone through my car over and over again to no avail...help guys!
thanks
-kyle
the motor is getting air, fuel, and spark. compression is good.
it starts up just fine.
but the problem is that it dies about a second after you let off the ignition/starter.
my first assumption was that it was a vaccum leak, so i made sure my gaskets were good(which are new), everything was tight, and that everything that requires vaccum or what needed to be capped was good(caps are new, hoses are new).
my second assumption was that there was a problem with my ignition. before i bought the car as just a rolling chassis, the car was obviously stolen. because where you put the key in the ignition was tore up, and the plastic/wire bit of the igniton was hanging out. so thats what i've been turning the car over with. there's a button that is pressed inside the key part of the ignition when you turn it over, so i thought maybe it was a sensor and had to be pressed in. tried that with my finger, didnt work, tried pressing it in with a key, still same results.
maybe i need to ground something else out? i just hate dealing with wiring, and suck with wiring, but i'm only hoping the ignition is the problem.
any help or any other suggestions will be extremely appreciated. i might have easily overlooked something but i have gone through my car over and over again to no avail...help guys!
thanks
-kyle
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as long as the long injector wires(which makes more sense to me and i cant see how it would fit otherwise) are supposed to go to the secondaries, they should be good.
i noticed that my throttlebody was getting stuck so it wasnt where it should have been in relationg to the tps, so i fixed that. the car starts up faster now, and it wants to idle so badly, and it does, but only for say 5-10 seconds. the car responds to the throttle now, but i can only push it a little. if i try to floor it it'll rev till about 3000rpms, and die out. after doing some reading and thinking, i thought getting a new fuel filter just might be the problem. the one in there looks super scummy.
for fuel delievery i have 4 550s from rc engineering(remans), and a walbro 255(brand new).
the afm may not be at its prime in life right now, but i tried it on my friends fc, and it worked just fine. it actually made his car run better, haha.
i'm about to get a new fuel filter right now, so i'll let you guys know how it goes.
i noticed that my throttlebody was getting stuck so it wasnt where it should have been in relationg to the tps, so i fixed that. the car starts up faster now, and it wants to idle so badly, and it does, but only for say 5-10 seconds. the car responds to the throttle now, but i can only push it a little. if i try to floor it it'll rev till about 3000rpms, and die out. after doing some reading and thinking, i thought getting a new fuel filter just might be the problem. the one in there looks super scummy.
for fuel delievery i have 4 550s from rc engineering(remans), and a walbro 255(brand new).
the afm may not be at its prime in life right now, but i tried it on my friends fc, and it worked just fine. it actually made his car run better, haha.
i'm about to get a new fuel filter right now, so i'll let you guys know how it goes.
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Are you sure you're getting power out in the engine bay. Judging by your ignition switch problem, i would make sure you're getting all the necessary power with the KEY ON ENGINE OFF. Check that first and report back. Download a Factory Service Manual if you have to check out wiring diagrams. I have a few mitchell ones at work which is easier to read than the FSM.
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well its been a month...figured i'd update. i had a pinched coolant seal so the motor was getting flooded with coolant..so i rebuilt it. its holding oil and coolant just right now, and the compression is good. but before i realized that i did replace the fuel filter and the car was running a little better.
so anyways, earlier my friend and i were trying to locate any vaccum leaks..theres a large leak where the lim meets the block. first we heard the large leak and started spaying carb cleaner in the area. motor kept running till we ran out of the little bit that we had.
tomorrow i'll see what i cant do about cleaning it up and sealing it better.
but another question i have, is about ecu error codes. i made up a error code reader with the two lamps, and i'm getting an error, but i cant seem to find what the error means.
on DCC1 it goes: pulse, flash, flash. i thought it might have to do with the water temp, but the first pulse it about half as long as the next two. if anyone knows what the error is i'd appreciate it.
other than that i'll update on if i get the manifold sealed nice and tight.
so anyways, earlier my friend and i were trying to locate any vaccum leaks..theres a large leak where the lim meets the block. first we heard the large leak and started spaying carb cleaner in the area. motor kept running till we ran out of the little bit that we had.
tomorrow i'll see what i cant do about cleaning it up and sealing it better.
but another question i have, is about ecu error codes. i made up a error code reader with the two lamps, and i'm getting an error, but i cant seem to find what the error means.
on DCC1 it goes: pulse, flash, flash. i thought it might have to do with the water temp, but the first pulse it about half as long as the next two. if anyone knows what the error is i'd appreciate it.
other than that i'll update on if i get the manifold sealed nice and tight.
#9
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i got the bitch driving! i got all the leaks fixed, but there was still the same problem. checked fuel pressure, it was perfect. checked for spark again, and it was just fine. i changed the hackjob harness i had for a much better condition harness, and then it didnt want to fire at all. after some thought and talking with people, i found out that i didnt have the injector resistor box, so the injectors werent doing anything. i remembered seeing a box like that in my big box of rx7 ****, and searched through it all today. found it, put it in...after a little bit of cranking it fired right up!
its been over a year since i got the car and all the work finally payed off.
i'm so hyped!
thanks for any help and suggestion dudes.
its been over a year since i got the car and all the work finally payed off.
i'm so hyped!
thanks for any help and suggestion dudes.
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