S4 TII, 3000k accelerated warm up, and emissions....i want to remove it
#1
S4 TII, 3000k accelerated warm up, and emissions....i want to remove it
Ok I have done a search on the 3K warm up, and the only thing i really learned was that the S4, and S5 "3K AWS" is different. I could not find any idea on what parts i need to remove.
im wanting to remove my 3K AWS, when i remove the cold start bottle near the firewall. I also want to remove my emission's, but i do not want to sacrifice cold start's, idle, or driveability.
i allready have all of the parts i think i need to do all the work (silicone vac lines in multiple I.D.'s, high heat resistant vac nipples in various sizes, upper intake manifold gasket, banzai racing blockoff plate kit)
so my question is what needs to be done to remove the "3000RPM Accelerated Warm up"?
how does removing the EGR affect the engine when removed?
how does removing the BAC affect the engine when removed?
how does removing the ACV affect the engine when removed?
im somewhat new to working under the hood of my FC, im just trying to clarify things for myself before i start taking things apart this weekend.
is there any pictures floating around that show the location's of each emission component?
thanks for any, and all help.
im wanting to remove my 3K AWS, when i remove the cold start bottle near the firewall. I also want to remove my emission's, but i do not want to sacrifice cold start's, idle, or driveability.
i allready have all of the parts i think i need to do all the work (silicone vac lines in multiple I.D.'s, high heat resistant vac nipples in various sizes, upper intake manifold gasket, banzai racing blockoff plate kit)
so my question is what needs to be done to remove the "3000RPM Accelerated Warm up"?
how does removing the EGR affect the engine when removed?
how does removing the BAC affect the engine when removed?
how does removing the ACV affect the engine when removed?
im somewhat new to working under the hood of my FC, im just trying to clarify things for myself before i start taking things apart this weekend.
is there any pictures floating around that show the location's of each emission component?
thanks for any, and all help.
#4
RIP Mark
iTrader: (5)
There is a mechanical part you can block off, it is on the inside of the UIM. When I did my emissions delete I took it off along with the rest. The blockoff plate is 10 bucks from http://www.2751engineering.com/2751parts.html, or you can buy the whole kit. Thats what I did. About keeping your idle and drivability, keep the BAC and thermowax in the throttle body. I took my thermowax out when I removed the secondary throttle plates and now you have to keep the rpms up until the engine warms up a little, or else it will stall. Doesn't really bother me much, but it would be annoying if I was expecting to just hop in and take off. The BAC is to bump the idle up when you turn on your AC.
There is a writeup for emissions removal here: https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-gen-archive-72/emissions-equipment-what-you-can-remove-how-112251/
There is a writeup for emissions removal here: https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-gen-archive-72/emissions-equipment-what-you-can-remove-how-112251/
#5
Top Down, Boost Up
iTrader: (7)
For the emissions removal, at least keep the BAC. If you remove it on a TII, you also remove your air adjust screw. The thermowax is also very helpful. I kept both on my engine, but chose to remove the coolant lines that run through the BAC. Instead, I have a hose running from the back of the water pump housing, underneath the UIM and up to the thermowax. It cleans things up a bit, and keeps all functionality.
For the AWS, this is how I understand it. There are 4 things involved: the BAC, the Air Bypass Solenoid, the ECU and the water temp switch on the radiator. At low temperatures (< 65*F), the switch is off, and the ECU will trigger the 3k RPM warmup. But when coolant temperature is higher (> 65*F), the switch will be on and the ECU won't increase the BAC duty cycle or open the bypass solenoid to boost idle speed. You should be able to disable the system by disconnecting the two wires that run to the temp switch & jumping them together. This will fool the ECU into thinking the coolant temp is always above 65*F. Now that being said, I've never tried this since I use an Rtek, but it's supposed to work from what I've read.
For the AWS, this is how I understand it. There are 4 things involved: the BAC, the Air Bypass Solenoid, the ECU and the water temp switch on the radiator. At low temperatures (< 65*F), the switch is off, and the ECU will trigger the 3k RPM warmup. But when coolant temperature is higher (> 65*F), the switch will be on and the ECU won't increase the BAC duty cycle or open the bypass solenoid to boost idle speed. You should be able to disable the system by disconnecting the two wires that run to the temp switch & jumping them together. This will fool the ECU into thinking the coolant temp is always above 65*F. Now that being said, I've never tried this since I use an Rtek, but it's supposed to work from what I've read.
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#8
Rotary Enthusiast
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To the op. Remove the AWS solenoid and the acv but leave the BAC and thermowax. Otherwise your idle will be crap
#10
The Silent but Deadly Mod
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What happens when your slave or master fails and your clutch pedal moves but the clutch itself doesnt and you start it in gear and bump whatever is infront of you.
To the op. Remove the AWS solenoid and the acv but leave the BAC and thermowax. Otherwise your idle will be crap
To the op. Remove the AWS solenoid and the acv but leave the BAC and thermowax. Otherwise your idle will be crap
What's wrong with starting the car in gear, handbrake up in a properly working S4?
#11
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What happens when your slave or master fails and your clutch pedal moves but the clutch itself doesnt and you start it in gear and bump whatever is infront of you.
To the op. Remove the AWS solenoid and the acv but leave the BAC and thermowax. Otherwise your idle will be crap
To the op. Remove the AWS solenoid and the acv but leave the BAC and thermowax. Otherwise your idle will be crap
even in the case that BOTH failed and i hit a car in front of me, i would much rather know it then in a <5 mph event than anywhere out on the road.
#12
7th Heaven
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What happens when your slave or master fails and your clutch pedal moves but the clutch itself doesnt and you start it in gear and bump whatever is infront of you.
To the op. Remove the AWS solenoid and the acv but leave the BAC and thermowax. Otherwise your idle will be crap
To the op. Remove the AWS solenoid and the acv but leave the BAC and thermowax. Otherwise your idle will be crap
isnt the service brake instruction in your user manual??
#13
rotorhead
iTrader: (3)
how does removing the EGR affect the engine when removed?
how does removing the BAC affect the engine when removed?
how does removing the ACV affect the engine when removed?
1) sometimes the cat/"split air pipe" This is to reduce NOx emissions and keep cat from overheating, but this isn't all that important and the Rx-8's don't even pump air straight to the cat.
2) Most of the time air flows to the exhaust ports to clean up the mixture before the O2 sensor reads it.
3) To the intake manifold to eliminate backfiring on deceleration
Without the ACV, you will have reduced cat life (and cat efficiency to pass emissions), increased backfiring, and a smelly exhaust. You will also be able to read the "true" idle AFR on a wideband because the airpump won't be cleaning it up.
#15
Are there any effects from removing the air bypass solenoid valve? The FSM says: Function: Supplies bypass air into primary intake manifold. Remarks: Assist of BAC valve during cold condition.
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