rebuilding my 91 N/A. replaced the stock rear end with an s4 t2 rear. replaced the axles since the stock ones wouldn't fit. i got a pair of remanufactured axles (both with the same part number). passenger side fit pretty tight and drivers side fits.....ok. after putting it up on a lift i noticed the drivers side shaft can be pulled out by hand. the shaft and the part of the rear that its bolted to (sorry dont know the name of that part). i thought the part of the rear that stays inside the pumpkin was stationary but i guess it floats in there by a "C" clip.

anyway long story short, do i have my shafts reveresed? are they not the same? did the place i bought them from **** me and give me two of the same axles?

1987 - 1995 Mazda Axle Assembly Price: $102.95 Qty: 1 Part #: CVU4095

1987 - 1995 Mazda Axle Assembly Price: $102.95 Qty: 1 Part #: CVU4095

bought from thepartsbin.com

http://oem.thepartsbin.com/parts/the...sembly&dp=true

or am i just retarded and my rear end is mounted crooked?

 

The axles are both of equal length on every RX7 I'v worked on. I rebuild halfshafts all the time and there is no difference between a pair. There shouldn't be a way to mount the diff crooked unless you have frame or subframe problems. You put the diff ears on the immoble bolts coming from the car, put on the huge rubber/metal washer looking things, and bolt it down. Your front diff mount may not be in its slot enough. I don't know if there is a difference in length between s4 and s5 halfshafts as I don't work on many s5's at work. If the s5 shafts were longer, that may cause a problem like you're talking about, but still, if you have the diff mounted correctly, and that were fact then neither of the half shafts would fit. Do the shafts have model numbers on them directly? That company may have given you two different shafts. Maybe they mistakenly gave you a miata shaft. I'm not positive, but I think the miata halfshafts are shorter than the 2nd gens.

 

its normal that you can pull the axle stubs out by hand

jsut push it in till it locks...
did u bolt the halfshaft in tot he hub?

 

Make sure you either get a mazdatrix na to turbo driveshaft, or a turbo 2 tranny, flywheel, clutch, and starter, and i think clutch slave. And the half shafts and axels should be the same so you might have got the same part number.

 

Actually, honestly....im doing a LS1 swap. thats why i upgraded to a turbo rear end. but if the axles are the same for S4's and S5's, then the rear end size should be the same for both, correct?

if the axle stub (thanks for the terminology) isnt locking into place, i assume the "c" clip is bad? and should be replaced.

 

^^ correct, only differences are between NA and turbo. s4 and s5 half shafts are identical, as long as they are turbo... or if they are both na.

it depends. you really have to push it hard to get it to click... it is all the way in, and you can probably see the groove on the stubs where it locks. push it in and knock it with a hammer, then pull it out without too much force... it should stay...


there isnt any force that push or pull that out when ur driving...

 

I'm gonna have to disagree^^^. I have a S5 T2. I wanted to use the S4 T2 Diff because of the Clutch-type LSD. I installed just the 3rd member (from the S4) and the S5 halfshalfts seemed to fit "to tight." So I removed the S5 halfshalfs and compared them to the S4 halfshalfs...the S5 shalfts are about 3/16'' LONGER than the S4 shalfts. Long story real short, use the same series diff and shalfts. Hope this helps.

 

^^^^

if you havent realized, the halfshaft can be pulled out or compressed by a little...
the t2 diff are both the same ize

you are comparing their erected with their limp length

im suprised you went as far as installing a new diff....

 

the problem most likely lies in the reman shafts. i went through 3 of those from autozone and NONE of them were right. i had two that were 3 inches too short, and one had the wrong bolt pattern. eventually i had my busted one rebuilt and it works perfectly now.