S4/s5 swap into 87 wont run
10-18-14, 04:23 PM
#27
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Those look dry to me.
Check fuel system.
Check for 12v at the injectors.
Check for continuity from connector to ecu plug
Check for fuel after the fuel filter, before it reaches the rats nest
Check fuel system.
Check for 12v at the injectors.
Check for continuity from connector to ecu plug
Check for fuel after the fuel filter, before it reaches the rats nest
10-18-14, 04:28 PM
#29
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Thread Starter
Pull ur plugs and see what they look like. If they're wet, pull them all out, pull your Injector fuse, crank engine for 10 seconds at a time with 30 second breaks in between until fuel vapor stops coming out. Clean and dry plugs, reinstall. Reinstall injector fuse. Try to start car with no throttle. Try starting with starter fluid.
When the plugs were reinstalled, and with the circuit opening relay pulled, the car did make an attempt to start with cranking. We did this for a while with white smoke coming out of the exhaust. Cranking maybe 10 times for 8 seconds or so. White smoke did not stop.
Battery is starting to die now so I have to stop, but I will try again tomorrow beginning from the step with the spark plugs removed
10-18-14, 04:29 PM
#30
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10-18-14, 04:52 PM
#31
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I was trying this earlier. With the spark plugs out we tried cranking for a bit maybe 4 times. But I think we need to do it more because it wasn't until the vapor stopped.
When the plugs were reinstalled, and with the circuit opening relay pulled, the car did make an attempt to start with cranking. We did this for a while with white smoke coming out of the exhaust. Cranking maybe 10 times for 8 seconds or so. White smoke did not stop.
Battery is starting to die now so I have to stop, but I will try again tomorrow beginning from the step with the spark plugs removed
10-18-14, 05:35 PM
#32
Senior Member
Thread Starter
10-18-14, 07:06 PM
#35
If the plugs were good, compression good, ignition good and a little starter fluid added the engine should start.
The B/W wire in the 4 wire Green check connector near the lead coil has what voltage w/key to on and starting?
The Brown/White wire at the boost sensor has what voltage w/key to on?
The B/W wire in the 4 wire Green check connector near the lead coil has what voltage w/key to on and starting?
The Brown/White wire at the boost sensor has what voltage w/key to on?
Last edited by satch; 10-18-14 at 07:11 PM.
10-18-14, 07:16 PM
#37
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Thread Starter
Can anyone give me any information on how to set the idle set screw? It was the last thing changed when the engine stopped running. Right now it's turned down a lot, probably just touching the throttle plate where there cable is attached. I used to run the engine and keep it on by pressing on the throttle when starting. So now I don't know whether to use the throttle or not.
Also I'm wondering i should just pull out the resistor pack removal that I did since it ran before with the resistors? Or just leave them for now.
Also I'm wondering i should just pull out the resistor pack removal that I did since it ran before with the resistors? Or just leave them for now.
10-18-14, 08:09 PM
#38
Are you sure you did a reputable job soldering the 5 wires together at the resistor plug. All you are doing is combining the voltage wire of the injectors to the wires which runs towards the injectors. It's not rocket science here by any means, not by any means. The removal is not your problem 'if' the injectors are high impedance and the soldering introduced no cold solder joints. You might want to try redoing the solder. Are you familiar w/how cold solder joints occur?
The wet plugs are problematic. For one, they could be fouled. And two, it should never happen. Are you sure you are getting spark?
Idle set screw
Look at the info/pics in and around post #81
https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-generati...-657023/page4/
The wet plugs are problematic. For one, they could be fouled. And two, it should never happen. Are you sure you are getting spark?
Idle set screw
Look at the info/pics in and around post #81
https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-generati...-657023/page4/
Last edited by satch; 10-18-14 at 08:12 PM.
10-19-14, 02:25 AM
#43
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10-19-14, 02:27 AM
#44
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Thread Starter
Are you sure you did a reputable job soldering the 5 wires together at the resistor plug. All you are doing is combining the voltage wire of the injectors to the wires which runs towards the injectors. It's not rocket science here by any means, not by any means. The removal is not your problem 'if' the injectors are high impedance and the soldering introduced no cold solder joints. You might want to try redoing the solder. Are you familiar w/how cold solder joints occur? The wet plugs are problematic. For one, they could be fouled. And two, it should never happen. Are you sure you are getting spark? Idle set screw Look at the info/pics in and around post #81 https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-generati...-657023/page4/
What I was concerned about with the injectors and resistor pack was that I was just wondering if it could be wired to go around them though it doesn't seem like that. It was weird because two injectors had oval connectors and two had square connectors but all four had high resistance.
For the spark plugs fouling that's why I posted the photo when I had dried them off to get opinions on it
Thanks on the tip for the idle set screw I've been asking around for that
10-19-14, 02:57 AM
#47
talking head
the turbo vehicle has a two speed pump relay , and so cuts the volts when at low load and thus the small reg can cope
the fix for you is a bigger aftermarket reg
on oz and jap fuel systems
( US vehicles usually has reg and damper positions reversed and flow the other direction )
if you have s4 rails you need to delete the reg with a banjo fitting
.. if you have s5 rails then you need to put a tee into the hose that joins the two rails together and run that out to a decent aftermarket reg
and then blank or weld over the outlet on the welded in s5 reg
( or fit s4 secondary rails with a washer under each rail where it bolts down )
10-19-14, 11:11 PM
#48
Senior Member
Thread Starter
If the plugs were good, compression good, ignition good and a little starter fluid added the engine should start. The B/W wire in the 4 wire Green check connector near the lead coil has what voltage w/key to on and starting? The Brown/White wire at the boost sensor has what voltage w/key to on?
I had this problem about a month or two when cranking to start but not staying on (the engine) for more than a few seconds. Then it went away on it's own since then.
The green four pin connector at the leading coil, black white wire is 12 volts with key to ON. I didn't have anyone with me to check while starting and am not sure if it is safe to try starting in the situation above.
The brown white wire at the boost sensor is 4.87 volts with key to ON. I'm away at school for the week and won't be able to test anything until Friday. Was having problems with my daily today that I had to fix before I could drive back.