Leading Trailing

This was before, just to show the condition.

 

Those look dry to me.

Check fuel system.

Check for 12v at the injectors.

Check for continuity from connector to ecu plug

Check for fuel after the fuel filter, before it reaches the rats nest

 

Could also be afm, or tps.

Starter fluid should make it start tho

 

I was trying this earlier. With the spark plugs out we tried cranking for a bit maybe 4 times. But I think we need to do it more because it wasn't until the vapor stopped.

When the plugs were reinstalled, and with the circuit opening relay pulled, the car did make an attempt to start with cranking. We did this for a while with white smoke coming out of the exhaust. Cranking maybe 10 times for 8 seconds or so. White smoke did not stop.

Battery is starting to die now so I have to stop, but I will try again tomorrow beginning from the step with the spark plugs removed

 

Sorry I had dried them up for this photo. They were each very wet.

 

White smoke usually means coolant seal failure. Did you notice any water on the plugs?

 

I don't think so, just gas. Black liquid and strong gas smell

 

Sub great thread best of luck!!

 

Does the smoke smell like gas?

 

If the plugs were good, compression good, ignition good and a little starter fluid added the engine should start.

The B/W wire in the 4 wire Green check connector near the lead coil has what voltage w/key to on and starting?

The Brown/White wire at the boost sensor has what voltage w/key to on?

 

+1

 

Can anyone give me any information on how to set the idle set screw? It was the last thing changed when the engine stopped running. Right now it's turned down a lot, probably just touching the throttle plate where there cable is attached. I used to run the engine and keep it on by pressing on the throttle when starting. So now I don't know whether to use the throttle or not.

Also I'm wondering i should just pull out the resistor pack removal that I did since it ran before with the resistors? Or just leave them for now.

 

Are you sure you did a reputable job soldering the 5 wires together at the resistor plug. All you are doing is combining the voltage wire of the injectors to the wires which runs towards the injectors. It's not rocket science here by any means, not by any means. The removal is not your problem 'if' the injectors are high impedance and the soldering introduced no cold solder joints. You might want to try redoing the solder. Are you familiar w/how cold solder joints occur?

The wet plugs are problematic. For one, they could be fouled. And two, it should never happen. Are you sure you are getting spark?


Idle set screw

Look at the info/pics in and around post #81

https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-generati...-657023/page4/

 

http://mazdarx.narod.ru/manual/IDLE_...DJUSTMENTS.htm

 

walbro pump,, stock reg..ex NA chassis with no pump speed control.. no no?

 

Most definitely. It's overkill for an NA.

 

as in almost 50 psi at idle

when it should be 38 minus inlet vacuum

walbro pump, stock reg, no speed control = flood

 

Should I swap back to my NA pump? I just read that i needed to upgrade the fuel pump for the turbo engine that's why I went with it.

 

Yeah the soldering should have been good. Just twisted them together, soldered all sides and capped it. I had two resistor packs so I cut the connector off one to use



What I was concerned about with the injectors and resistor pack was that I was just wondering if it could be wired to go around them though it doesn't seem like that. It was weird because two injectors had oval connectors and two had square connectors but all four had high resistance.

For the spark plugs fouling that's why I posted the photo when I had dried them off to get opinions on it

Thanks on the tip for the idle set screw I've been asking around for that

 

Yes

 

Thanks man

 

no.. you need the flow the bigger walbro pump gives at WOT , but not the excess what it delivers at low demand

the turbo vehicle has a two speed pump relay , and so cuts the volts when at low load and thus the small reg can cope

the fix for you is a bigger aftermarket reg

on oz and jap fuel systems
( US vehicles usually has reg and damper positions reversed and flow the other direction )

if you have s4 rails you need to delete the reg with a banjo fitting

.. if you have s5 rails then you need to put a tee into the hose that joins the two rails together and run that out to a decent aftermarket reg

and then blank or weld over the outlet on the welded in s5 reg

( or fit s4 secondary rails with a washer under each rail where it bolts down )

 

More problems arose over the night. When I hook up the battery and turn the key to ON, all the warning lights go on and a two beep warning signal begins. This indicated failed alternator when the car is running, which it isn't, and engine speed signal error. I assume this means the car thinks it is on and is detecting low voltage and no Rpms but it is just off.

I had this problem about a month or two when cranking to start but not staying on (the engine) for more than a few seconds. Then it went away on it's own since then.

The green four pin connector at the leading coil, black white wire is 12 volts with key to ON. I didn't have anyone with me to check while starting and am not sure if it is safe to try starting in the situation above.

The brown white wire at the boost sensor is 4.87 volts with key to ON. I'm away at school for the week and won't be able to test anything until Friday. Was having problems with my daily today that I had to fix before I could drive back.

 

The warning lights are supposed to turn on w/key to on and engine off if that is the situation you are explaining.

The two beep sound will occur w/key to on and the driver door is open.

 

Actually, the beep would occur if the keys are left in the ignition w/the door open regardless of the position.