the s4 rebuild begins!!!
#1
Rotary Enthusiast
Thread Starter
the s4 rebuild begins!!!
OKAY here begins my quest... i go to school at edinboro university and im well as you can see preparing to do a rebuild. first was this my garage, it was a mess! but a little work and i got it all cleaned up! i also just got my engine stand, jack and other misc. equipment nessisary for the job.
so i started takin down the block and i noticed oil accumulated in the intake. this is a newer s5 turbo. so i dont know why this is happening to the turbo...but i have been having trouble starting the car and been loosing coolant...i have posted threads all over about it. so this might be a clue as to the problem. i deducted it might be related to the coolant leak due to the coolant in the oil.
i plan on :
-pulling the block
-rebuilding
-stripping the bay
-painting the bay white.
-cleaning pretty much everything and painting or removing any rust or curosion from any part.
-paint the rest of the car after
becuase im kinda short on time there is a chance that i might be sending out the short block to have someone else rebuild it....its not something i want considering i want this experience but, the snow on the hood of the car is evidence enough that working in these conditions is such a bitch. there plent more to come!
so what do you guys think so far
so i started takin down the block and i noticed oil accumulated in the intake. this is a newer s5 turbo. so i dont know why this is happening to the turbo...but i have been having trouble starting the car and been loosing coolant...i have posted threads all over about it. so this might be a clue as to the problem. i deducted it might be related to the coolant leak due to the coolant in the oil.
i plan on :
-pulling the block
-rebuilding
-stripping the bay
-painting the bay white.
-cleaning pretty much everything and painting or removing any rust or curosion from any part.
-paint the rest of the car after
becuase im kinda short on time there is a chance that i might be sending out the short block to have someone else rebuild it....its not something i want considering i want this experience but, the snow on the hood of the car is evidence enough that working in these conditions is such a bitch. there plent more to come!
so what do you guys think so far
#2
Automatic = Power drain
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Pennsylvania
Posts: 399
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
That is quite a project! If you have a factory service manual or even a Haynes manual you should be Ok to rebuild the engine. Do you intend to port it or anything like that while you have it apart?
Working on cars in the winter can be unpleasant, but imagine the frustration of it being sunny and warm outside and you can't drive your car because it isn't finished yet. Winter repairs are worth it. (I certainly hope that your garage is heated.)
As to the oil in the intake, do you know where it can from? It could have come from leaking turbo seals or you may have something wrong with the oil injection system.
Was the coolant in the oil in the intake, or was it in the crankcase oil?
Removing the rust from everything is an excellent idea, you will want to pay special attention to the rocker panels and floorboards, the rear of the front wheel wells and the front of the rear wheel wells.
Good luck and have fun.
Working on cars in the winter can be unpleasant, but imagine the frustration of it being sunny and warm outside and you can't drive your car because it isn't finished yet. Winter repairs are worth it. (I certainly hope that your garage is heated.)
As to the oil in the intake, do you know where it can from? It could have come from leaking turbo seals or you may have something wrong with the oil injection system.
Was the coolant in the oil in the intake, or was it in the crankcase oil?
Removing the rust from everything is an excellent idea, you will want to pay special attention to the rocker panels and floorboards, the rear of the front wheel wells and the front of the rear wheel wells.
Good luck and have fun.
#3
Rotary Enthusiast
Thread Starter
no the only heat i have is a karosene heater. its not really doin the job. its ok tho, i want the title of bamf. the coolant i just fround in the pipe, i have taken any manifolds off yet. im tryin to get the radiator off but im having trouble getting the shroud off. any tips?
#4
Winter sucks
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Newberg, Oregon
Posts: 3,083
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I have a similar rebuild project coming up as well. S5 NA. You have any plans to modify your engine stand? I welded up an adapter for the rotary engine. I'll have to take pics as soon as I make it pretty. Still need to drill the holes for the front plate to bolt to.
As for the shroud, don't take it off... just unbolt the radiator and pull it all out in one piece. its MUCH easier that way.
As for the shroud, don't take it off... just unbolt the radiator and pull it all out in one piece. its MUCH easier that way.
#7
Winter sucks
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Newberg, Oregon
Posts: 3,083
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Oh.. you have to take the fan off... its a piece of cake though. Just use a screwdriver to stop the pully.. then take the (4) 10mm nuts off. Pull the fan out carefully (don't drop on radiator) and then the shroud+rad should pull out. Don't forget there are some L shaped metal pieces that hold the rad in as well. you'll have to pull it past those.
Trending Topics
#8
Rotary Freak
iTrader: (16)
Pros rebuild on 5 gal buckets
The bucket is easier to rebuild in IMHO
The oil in the intake is from bad oil seals in the turbo. Sounds like you need to take the turbo to someone to be rebuilt or buy a rebuild kit from a company like mazdatrix.com and do it yourself. That's if you don't want to use this opportunity to upgrade to a larger turbo and get the supporting mods. Search for turbo projects to learn more about running a bigger turbo.
-Ryan
The bucket is easier to rebuild in IMHO
The oil in the intake is from bad oil seals in the turbo. Sounds like you need to take the turbo to someone to be rebuilt or buy a rebuild kit from a company like mazdatrix.com and do it yourself. That's if you don't want to use this opportunity to upgrade to a larger turbo and get the supporting mods. Search for turbo projects to learn more about running a bigger turbo.
-Ryan
Last edited by PvillKnight7; 02-17-07 at 07:59 PM.
#15
Rotary Enthusiast
Thread Starter
lol! that is a kick *** idea...its unfortunate i already footed the bill for the stand tho ...::shrugs:: so yeah this upcomming weekend (23-25th) is going to be AWSOME check out the weather for 16412.... 36 degrees!!!!thats so warm! im tottally pullin it is this weekened.
and btw i accually just pulled the shroud off without taking the fan off....::scratches head:: dont know exactly how i did it...but it did it. i made a lil mod for the future too i made a lil 90 degree cut in the shroud under the ingoing hose to make it easier or removal and installing. i hope i dont run in to any pressure problems.
and btw i accually just pulled the shroud off without taking the fan off....::scratches head:: dont know exactly how i did it...but it did it. i made a lil mod for the future too i made a lil 90 degree cut in the shroud under the ingoing hose to make it easier or removal and installing. i hope i dont run in to any pressure problems.
#16
Winter sucks
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Newberg, Oregon
Posts: 3,083
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Well, I took pics of my engine stand adapter I welded up... Took me 45min to cut, prep, and weld the whole thing.... I haven't gotten to the "cleaning up my ugly welds" step... or the "paint it and make it pretty" step.... I accidentally made it about an inch and a half too deep, so the engine is off-center... not a HUGE deal, and definately better than a 5-gal bucket, but... damnit, it must be perfect.. so I'll probably cut it shorter and weld it back together with some gussets or something.
Anyways.. here's the pics:
Anyways.. here's the pics:
#19
Winter sucks
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Newberg, Oregon
Posts: 3,083
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Hehe.. make fun all you want, those welds will hold up to nuclear attack. My gas tank started running out, so... I did ALL of that with NO flux core and almost no gas pressure..... You try it! Hehe...
Soon as I'm done cutting and re-welding it so its balanced, I'll take measurements and post them in a new thread. Cool?
Soon as I'm done cutting and re-welding it so its balanced, I'll take measurements and post them in a new thread. Cool?
#21
Back in the game
iTrader: (-1)
Oil in the intake doesn't mean a bad turbo, if it does, i want to know where the turbo is on my 6 port NA, because there's oil in the too.
The oil area(cant really call it a crankcase) vents to the intake, this allows oil to go into the intake at times. If you want to stop it get a catch can.
Unless you have ALOT of oil, then it may be a turbo then.
The oil area(cant really call it a crankcase) vents to the intake, this allows oil to go into the intake at times. If you want to stop it get a catch can.
Unless you have ALOT of oil, then it may be a turbo then.
#22
tom port.. AKA streetport
iTrader: (6)
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: ludlow, pa
Posts: 4,659
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
noice!
your rebuilding in the winter with a heater like that?
yikes!
where in PA are you?
i havent touched my car because its so damn cold out!
today is 40 degrees though!
woot!~
to bad i have to leave for work now.
your rebuilding in the winter with a heater like that?
yikes!
where in PA are you?
i havent touched my car because its so damn cold out!
today is 40 degrees though!
woot!~
to bad i have to leave for work now.
#23
Rotary Freak
iTrader: (16)
Originally Posted by TehMonkay
Oil in the intake doesn't mean a bad turbo, if it does, i want to know where the turbo is on my 6 port NA, because there's oil in the too.
The oil area(cant really call it a crankcase) vents to the intake, this allows oil to go into the intake at times. If you want to stop it get a catch can.
Unless you have ALOT of oil, then it may be a turbo then.
The oil area(cant really call it a crankcase) vents to the intake, this allows oil to go into the intake at times. If you want to stop it get a catch can.
Unless you have ALOT of oil, then it may be a turbo then.
You can tell if its your crank case by running a fuel line (or any hose) from the nipple on the oil fill neck by the block. Put the other end in a bottle, secure the bottle in the engine bay, and go for a drive. Check the bottle like once a day...
Micaheli- the adapter looks like its gets the job done. I think I might have to steal your design
#24
Rotary Enthusiast
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by 88rxn/a
noice!
your rebuilding in the winter with a heater like that?
yikes!
where in PA are you?
i havent touched my car because its so damn cold out!
today is 40 degrees though!
woot!~
to bad i have to leave for work now.
your rebuilding in the winter with a heater like that?
yikes!
where in PA are you?
i havent touched my car because its so damn cold out!
today is 40 degrees though!
woot!~
to bad i have to leave for work now.
yeah im going to rock the cash box this weeken for sure.. im right near erie its like 15 min south of erie. but i think the turbo is still good because it still boosts like new(knocks on wood) and no oil from the bov. i guess i just wont loose sleep over it.
#25
tom port.. AKA streetport
iTrader: (6)
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: ludlow, pa
Posts: 4,659
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by skatingsamurai
yeah im going to rock the cash box this weeken for sure.. im right near erie its like 15 min south of erie. but i think the turbo is still good because it still boosts like new(knocks on wood) and no oil from the bov. i guess i just wont loose sleep over it.
i work in warren...so im about an hour and a half from you....
we will have to tear it up sometime.