Luciu$

I undrestand the situation is same as mine was. I had complete S4 car (well I didnt but lets suppose for the sake of discussion). I swaped the engine - put in S5 motor with S5 emission harness+boost sensor+Airflow meter and S5 ECU (throw out S4 motor, S4 EM harness ...., knock control unit, and barometric pressure sensor), now you have one connector for ECU F-31 missing (coils etc.) and two connectors from emission to front harness FEM-01, FEM-02 ( you actually have them, but they doesnt fit). I got the S5 F-31 connector from hIGGI's friend and I got S4 Fem-01,2 (emission side) connectors from some broken emisson harness. Than I solder the S5 F-31 to my front harness and fem01,2 to s5 emission harness. End of story.
well you have to also do something about the alternator, either use S4 one, or switch connector (not sure about this now, there has been some threads about this)
You will also have now two CAS connectors, just use the S5 now.

tomoguisuru

Yeah, I replaced the S5 alternator with the S4 so that all hooks up along with the grounds. The Wiring harness is ready to be put into the ECU, but as you know only the two plugs from the S5 will hook into the S5 ECU so what I need to know is where to go from here.

I have thought about taking the old ECU and taking off the female connector to the chassy and then going to a junk yard and finding the onnector to the S5 ECU and just rewiring it that way following the previous post from rotaryresurrection.com,but what I really need is a step by step process to take. Like I said before, I looked at the FSM and really don't know what I'm looking at when it comes to wiring.

Also if I understand right, Luciu$ said that I should just the F-31 connector and rewire it like stated above right. I don't know it it will help, but here is a pic of the actual ECU I'm using for the swap all hooked up.

Madrx7racer

omg.....THAT IS WHAT I SAID TO DO IN MY VERY FIRST PPOSTS IN THIS THREAD!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! !!!!!

tomoguisuru

Sorry,I missunderstood the original post. I thought that you wanted me to rewire the entire harness and not just the chassis part. That is why I was trying to see if there was another way to re-wire the car. Now that I understand what you are talking about, I will give it a try as soon as I can locate a donar car.

Luciu$

To make myself clear once again, you have to rewire not just f-31 (the one into ECU) but also the FEM-01 and FEM-02 which goes from emission harness (S5) to front harness (S4 in the car). These three connectors are quite mixed up together on S4/S5. I can add few notes I made on my laptop when doing it, the rest is on the papers. These notes are mainly about the S5 connectors, so I didnt have to look into both FSMs at once, just these notes and S4 FSM

First the F-31 into ECU

PIN Color I/O meaninig where it goes connect to
1A L/R I Battery Backup ?? S4 FEM-02 L/R
1B B/W I MainRelay Ign F33 S4 FEM-02 B/W
1C B/R I IgnitionSwitch Crank p44;F-08 S4 FEM-02 B/W|B/L
1D Y O SelfDiag F40
1E Y/L O Malfunction indicator light p94;FI-01=gnd
1F Y/B O SelfDiag buzzer F40
1G L/Y O T coil timing F-35 S4 F31 L/Y
1H G/Y O L coil timing F-36 S4 F31(V) G/Y
1I O I test connector (green) 1pin F-41
1J BR/Y O T coil select F-35 S4 F31 Br/Y
1K G/R O Fuel pump resistor relay p44;F-60
1L L/W O A/C relay -
1M L/B I Mileage sensor no1 p48;IC-02=INSTRUMENT
1N LG/B I PS pressure switch F-48
1O L/O I A/C switch -
1P B/Y I Heat hazard sensor F-38 S4 F31(W) B/Y
1Q Y/L I clutch switch F-54 S4 F31(L) Y/L
1R G/B I neutral switch FE-03,E-07,NeutralSwitch S4 F31(G) G/B
1S R/B I fog light switch -
1T B/L I Back up light and 5th switch FE-03,E-17,OverTopSwitch
1U BR/R I mileage sensor no2 p48;IC-02=INSTRUMENT
1V L/G I T coil confirmation F-35

FEM01: its color in front and color in emission (the color you look for) and the meaning, I didint bother with cruise control, so if you want one, you need to look it up yourself. S5 ecu also checks for electric load(like defroster, lights etc) to adjust idle, I didnt connect this either because you would need to run these wires ( they are not in S4)

I also didnt correctly connect grounding circuits, I just grounded all grounds to body.

F E
L/O G/Y Cruise control unit+ break switch -> Cruise control actuator
G/W G/W Cruise control unit <-> Cruise control actuator
* *
# #
(B) (B) GND -> Windshield wiper S4 FEM-01 B
R/G W/G Headlight Relay [Z-58,62] -> ECU 3L

B/L W/L Rear window defroster switch [Z-110] -> ECU 3P
G/R Y/B Logical mode switch [Z-90] <- ECU 3O
B B Ground to ECU
* *
G G Cruise control unit <- Cruise control actuator
G/B G/B Cruise control unit <-> Cruise control actuator



FEM-02:

F E
Br Br Circuit Opening relay -> ECU 3K +Ceck connector EM30 S4 Br in Fem-02
* *
L L Wiper power -> wiper S4 FEM-01 L
* *
L/W G/Y Boost meter <- Boost sensor + ECU S4 FEM-01 L/W
# #
# #
* *
L/W L/W Wiper switch [Z-52] <- Wiper S4 FEM-01 L/W
B/W B/W Main relay ->Sol. Valve Z-37 S4 FEM-02 B/W
B/Y B/Y Main relay + coils -> Injector power S4 FEM-02 B/Y

B/Y B/Y Main relay + coils -> Injector power S4 FEM-02 B/Y
B/W B/W Main relay ->Sol. Valve Z-37 S4 FEM-02 B/W
L/R L/R Wiper switch [Z-52] <- Wiper S4 FEM-01 L/R
* *
G/R G/B
* *
G Br/B Boost meter -> Presure sensor (GND) S4 FEM-01 B/L
* *
L/Y L/Y Wiper switch [Z-52] <- Wiper S4 FEM-01 L/Y
* *
Y/W Y/W Temp gauge -> water temp sensor S4TII FEM-01 Y/B S4NA FEM-02 Y/B


hope its readable and helps a bit

Luciu$

As I expected the tabs are missing, so its quite unreadable so i just uploaded my files directly, hope it helps.

tomoguisuru

Okay, I have tried to look at the FSM and this is what I have so far. Please add any corrections that you see.

S4 S5 PURPOSE
1A->? Self_diagnosis
1B->1F Self_diagnosis
1C->? Air bypass relay
1D->1D Self_diagnosis(monitor Lamp)
1E->1O A/C switch
1F->1L A/C main relay
1G->1R Nuetral switch
1H->? Water temp. switch
1I->1T 5th switch
1J->? initial setup coupler
1K->? Shift light indicator
1L->1Q Clutch Switch
1M->1V Coil with ignitor (IGF-T)
1N->? Crank angle sensor
1O->1M Mileage Switch
1P->(3G) Crank angle sensor
1Q->(3H) Crank angle sensor
1R->1N P/S switch
1S->? Port Air Solenoid valve
1T->(3E) Crank angle sensor
1U->1J Ignitor (IGS-T)
1V->1H Ignitor (IGT-L)
1W->1P Heat Hazard sensor
1X->1G Ignitor (IGT-T)

note: I know that there where the crank angle sensors are listed on the FSM for the S5, but I'm not sure that I need to even mess with that since the ECU now handles that past. So is it better to leave it or should I switch to the S4 hook-ups?

Also, there are several spots on the S5 ECU that don't have hoop-ups with this config. here they are.

S5 ? PURPOSE

1A->? Battery
1B->? Main relay
1C->? Ignition Switch
1E->? Malfuntion indicator light
1I->? Test connector

This is all of them I think. If you can help me place them it would be appreciated.

HAILERS

Not to butt in at such a late date, but I HAVE AND OPINION!

The easiest and most SENSIBLE way to put that series five turbo into you series four na would be to take that series five emissions harness and series five ECU, and put them in your closet and forget them alltogether.

Install you r series five turbo engine in you car but install it with your series four n/a front cover with it's oil metering pump.

Use your old series four emissions harness. You'll have to lenghten your tps plug by several inches. We're talking three wires maybe ten inches longer.

The problem with doing it this way is that you'll need to buy a series four N332 or N333 ECU. They can be had on E-Bay. I've bought them there before or from this forum in the forsale section.

Note that you don't have to do squat with your combination meter pins/plugs that is mentinoned somewhere else on this thread.......if you do as I say above.

On the other hand, If I had a series five wiring diagram....a series five ECU....and wanted to swap pins to the ECU.....I think that might be a fun thing to do. No where near impossible. I just think the same thing to do is what I said above. NOTE again on the first page of this thread where a fellow wrote that he just did this. Sorry, I forgot his name.

Be sure to get a series four boost sensor and afm if you do the above. A must. Also E-bay or the for sale section on this forum.

HAILERS

LUCIU$ is pretty sharp and has given you/us some good info. It would help to have the series four and five wiring diagrams.

HAILERS

Here's some copied ECU pinouts

HAILERS

More

HAILERS

Again

HAILERS

The above were series five turbo. The following are series four NON TURBO...because you have a non turbo car.

HAILERS

More

wpgrexx

leave the s4 na wiring alone. Get a s4 turbo ecu and pressure sensor. You will also need a s4 alternator and turbo s4 injectors or bigger. Hook up the s5 manifolds using s4 injectors and BACV. The s5 JDM throttle body has an adjustment screw for idle so you can use your na BACV. Use whatever front copver matches your turbo, if it is s5 than you need to premix and block off the MOP. If its s4 use an s4 front cover and you can use the s4 MOP.

Also if you dont have a trans, you can make due using a 326 flywheel and clutch package to keep the na trans. If you have a turbo trans use it and the turbo clutch and flywheel, and than get a turbo driveshaft and now the fun begins. Line up the flange on the driveshaft so that all 4 of its holes line up to flat plate on the rear diff. mark them and drill it out, now your turbo driveshaft fits on the na rear end. You will also need a turbo starter if you are using a turbo trans.

The wiring pins for the injectors and all the vital sensors are the same on s4 na and s4 tII ecu, they are just routed different in the harness. I suggest ditching the emmisions and blocking things off.

Hope that made sense.

HAILERS

You sitll have to deal with the other two plugs refered to in another persons post . Plugs called FEM. Two of 'em. I think I'd want a series five wiring diagram and a series four diaragm if I were doing this. The series four is online. The series five MIGHT be found on that other site.

HAILERS

I forgot to mention, the series five tps is different than the series four. NOT a big deal. The series five has a narrow and a full range tps. I'd just use the NARROW range tps part of the series five IF I were to use a series four ECU. NOT a big deal. The narrow range is the same output as your series four tps.

You swap front covers and omps to keep the omp system working. That's if you use a series four ECU/

tomoguisuru

Hey, can anyone double check these prints to make sure that I have them wired correct? I have wired then according to what luciu$ had in his notes and by what FSM said was in common. I still have a question about the boost sensor though because it seems to be connected to the same wire as the wiper in the notes I was given.

L/W G/Y Boost meter <- Boost sensor + ECU S4 FEM-01 L/W
L/W L/W Wiper switch [Z-52] <- Wiper S4 FEM-01 L/W

Luciu$

There are really two Blue/White wires in S4 Fem-01 and S5 Fem-02 on front harness side. But there is only one on the emission harness side so you have to pick the right ones before you cut off any of the connectors. The one for the wiper is the first pin at the corner of the connector and boost is the third (on the S4 harness).
I must say that i actually didnt cut off any of te connectors in my car, because we do quite a lot of swaps and experiments here, so my car is still ready for S4 motor and my motor is still ready for fitting into S5 car.
To be honest I didnt understand your drawings, they seem a bit too chaotic to me, maybe I just didnt give it enough time. But I suggest you to draw it more schematicaly. I would draw S5 connectors on one side and S4 on the other.
Something like:

S5 F-31(ECU itself) - S5 F-31(connector). . . . . . . . S4 F-31 (F)
S5 FEM-01 (E)- S5 FEM-01 (F) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . S4 FEM-02 (F)
S5 FEM-02 (E)- S5 FEM-02 (F) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .S4 FEM-01 (F)

That's if you get S5 front harness connectors
If you get S4 emisson harness connectors it would look something like this:

S5 F-31(ECU itself) - S5 F-31(connector). . . . . . . . S4 F-31 (F)
S5 FEM-01 (E) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . S4 FEM-02 (E)- S4 FEM-02 (F)
S5 FEM-02 (E) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .S4 FEM-01 (E)- S4 FEM-01 (F)

Or maybe you could also get some all diferent connector an interconnect it throu that - SDC=Some different connector.

S5 F-31(ECU itself) - S5 F-31(connector). . . . .S4 F-31 (F)
S5 FEM-01 (E) . . . . .SDC(E)-SDC(F) . . . . . . . . S4 FEM-02 (F)
S5 FEM-02 (E) . . . . . SDC(E)-SDC(F). . . . . . . . .S4 FEM-01 (F)

Luciu$

Ok, I just gave some time to yours diagrams and they are not so bad, maybe try to add some names to connector to make it clearer which one is S4/S5

That boost gauge/ wiper wire problem is as I said. Just route that dark red line to the Br/R pin (its L/W on the other side)

I'm not aslo sure about the self diag connector(1D,1E,1F,1I pins). I'm plannig to let self-diag inside the car.

1K is the fuel pump resistor relay- I dont connect this to any harnesses, because I always do the fuel pump rewire- that means that I put rezistor relay into the back of the car and I run signal wire from 1K pin directly to that relay. (and one fused power wire from baterry thru new added relay, many writeups for this are around)

1L,1O are for A/C, so I didn't check that one out
same with 1M,1N,1T milage sensor, power steering pressure switch, back up lights and 5th gear

otherwise it looks ok

tomoguisuru

Can anyone tell me where to find the section about building the Fuel Pump Relay? I searched for it in the forums and couldn't find it.
Also, I have some items for sale from the swap if anyone wants them. All are in near perfect condition, so just E-mail me if you're interested.
N/A drive shaft $75
Turbo Driveshaft $100
S5 Alternator and harness $30

tomoguisuru

Hey Luciu$, I noticed a problem when I was wiring up the FEM-02 connector.
Y/W Y/W Temp gauge -> water temp sensor S4TII FEM-01 Y/B S4NA FEM-02 Y/B

except there is no Y/B on the S4 NA FEM-02
any suggestions?

Luciu$

That is what FSM says. That is the difference between S4 NA and S4 TII, just check that your harness is really NA. Or just dont be lazy and look it up. Look at your old emission harness for y/w or y/whaterver at fem-01 or fem-02 and check if its connected to sensor connector. Or you might start at gauge side and look it up i the front harness.

tomoguisuru

Okay, I found the problem and have fixed it with the Water Temp. I still need some help on where to find a write-up about the fuel relay and resistor though from 1K. Does anyone know where I can find it?

Luciu$

Ask google
for example:
http://www.1300cc.com/howto/how2/rewire.htm

I do it actually a bit different way:
I take the fuel pump resistor relay from the front (under airflow meter) and cut it off from front harness (take both sides of the connector to the rear of the car, so the resitor relay can be exancheg). In the front, I just solder all 4 blue and blue/red wires together and I leave the rest two wires disconnected(B/W,G/R). Isolate it all. Than I run big enough power wire from engine bay fuse box (I use ex-ABS fuse for fuel pump) to the rear of the car, and signal wire from 1K to the same place.
In the back of the car I put one new relay (as strong as posible, usually 30A or 40A) This relay is controled by original fuel pump power wire against ground- blue and black wires on rear-left tower, cut the blue in the rear harness, so the fuel pump can be exchanged. I dont cut the black one, just add another 2 wires to it - one for newly added relay and one I bolt to the body to enforce this ground.
The newly added relay switches the strong new wire. The output from this relay goes to the both blue/red wires on cutted connector to fuel pump resistor relay. I also connect it to the B/W wire in the same connector, this isnt't 100% clear, but I don't see any possible problem with this. Than just connect G/R wire in this connector to the 1K wire and both blue wires here to the blue wire that runs into fuel pump.

Rather check the link and be sure you understand what you are doing, its quite simple then. The difference is that I dont run any new wires from the original fuel pump resistor relay possition, I dont like unoriginal wires in the engine bay.