s4 13bt and s5 13bt rotor housing the same?
#1
s4 13bt and s5 13bt rotor housing the same?
like it sais are the s4 and the s5 turbo rotar housing the same or what. also how can you what compression rotars you have because the guy that i bought the car from said that when the motor was rebuilt he put higher compression rotors in. He said that he didnt know that compreddion they were any help. This if my first rebuild and any help would be greatly appreciated.
#4
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The S5 13BT rotor housing have the spark plugs located lower on the rotor housings.
Go ask BDC about mixing and matching the rotors housings, since he's done it already.
It's hard to tell what compression ratio the rotors are unless you have both NA and turbo rotors in front of you.
You can tell S4 from S5 by *weighing* them.
S4 is over 10 lbs.
S5 is under 10 lbs.
Mazdatrix has a handy chart here:
http://www.mazdatrix.com/faq/rotorwgt.htm
-Ted
Go ask BDC about mixing and matching the rotors housings, since he's done it already.
It's hard to tell what compression ratio the rotors are unless you have both NA and turbo rotors in front of you.
You can tell S4 from S5 by *weighing* them.
S4 is over 10 lbs.
S5 is under 10 lbs.
Mazdatrix has a handy chart here:
http://www.mazdatrix.com/faq/rotorwgt.htm
-Ted
#5
Sharp Claws
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S5 rotors also have machined reliefs whereas S4 rotors have rough cast ones.
S4 rotors also have deeper pockets than S5 rotors do but unless you know you have a pair of both turbo rotors or n/a it can be tough to tell between all 4 different types of rotors.
S4 rotors also have deeper pockets than S5 rotors do but unless you know you have a pair of both turbo rotors or n/a it can be tough to tell between all 4 different types of rotors.
Last edited by RotaryEvolution; 06-10-05 at 01:11 AM.
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#9
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Originally Posted by petree_777
i have a good 87 n/a motor and a 87 tii motor with a bad rear rotor and housing. Just wondeing if i can use the n/a rotors and rear housing.
Mechnically speaking, it's not a problem.
What you're effectively doing is increasing the compression ratio (significantly).
This is not recommended, unless you have a way to compensate for the increased compression ratio.
Are you trying to do this with the stock ECU? This is not recommended.
If you're running a stand-alone, then you can easily compensate for the increased compression ratio.
With 3 mm seals then it should be reliable.
Do you have some way of machining the rotors properly to take the larger 3mm apex seals?
-Ted
#10
well i think that i am going to just go with tii parts but still get 3 mm seals. I have a friend that runs a machine shop and can wright the program for the cnc and machine the rotors. And am going to go with rotary aviation seals because i have heard only good things.
#11
Green Flameless
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I'm really happy with my RA seals.. The only thing that I was annoyed with is their Viton (Sp?) Combuston O-Rings. I think ReTed posted links to a McMaster Carr O-Ring that he uses for combustion rings. I'd probably go with those if I rebuild again. Other than the RA kit is good!
I can't actually add anything else to the conversation.
I can't actually add anything else to the conversation.
#13
NorCal 7's Co-founder
The point is, you don't need 3mm seals. They are just a crutch for poor tuning IMO. There are several guys that run 2mm seals and produce tons of power.
Zach
Zach
#18
BDC Motorsports
That's not entirely true. You can mix and match them but it's not advised as the leading plug location is slightly lower on the S5 and newer housings. I used to run a setup about 10-11 years ago that made a good amount of power (peaked at 424 on the dyno) that had a mismatched pair of rotor housings. I never knew until a couple years later. Didn't seem to be an issue in how the car ran, though.
If I were doing an engine today, I wouldn't use the mismatched housings.
B
If I were doing an engine today, I wouldn't use the mismatched housings.
B
#19
Sharp Claws
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i had an engine with mismatched housings that broke a side seal, i have yet to see any other engine do that and the reason was unknown still to this day as to why it broke aside from the mixed ignition timing locations in the rotor housings.
if you want to be super cheap and mix housings, it may work and it may not, may run well for a while or it may experience the same issue as i experienced with it. i may miss the opportunity to say "i told you so", so i'm doing it now.
that car was only making about 300 or so wheel horsepower on a smaller hybrid turbo. in non turbo applications it will probably be less noticable, but the combustion cycle IS different from one rotor to the other if you mix the housings.
if you want to be super cheap and mix housings, it may work and it may not, may run well for a while or it may experience the same issue as i experienced with it. i may miss the opportunity to say "i told you so", so i'm doing it now.
that car was only making about 300 or so wheel horsepower on a smaller hybrid turbo. in non turbo applications it will probably be less noticable, but the combustion cycle IS different from one rotor to the other if you mix the housings.
Last edited by RotaryEvolution; 03-26-11 at 08:22 PM.
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so to recap.
the N326 and N332 rotor housings have different spark plug placement from the N350/N318/FD/cosmo rotor housings.
#22
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#24
Sharp Claws
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the spark plug is visibly in a different place. however i think i remember the thread and he was looking at NON-USA S4 housings which actually do have the S5 spark plug placement.
so to recap.
the N326 and N332 rotor housings have different spark plug placement from the N350/N318/FD/cosmo rotor housings.
so to recap.
the N326 and N332 rotor housings have different spark plug placement from the N350/N318/FD/cosmo rotor housings.