In general, smaller diameter rims are lighter.
Some really expensive 17" rims can be lighter.
For 18" rims to be lighter than your stockers, it had to be exotic metals like magnesium; almost all the other 18" rims are heavier than your stockers, otherwise.


-Ted

 

look alot better than i had pictured in my mind.

 

Yeah its ok, anyone got a pic of the skyline wheels? Or MR7's? Close to the same design.

 

does anyone have pics with r33 rims on a FC I would really like to see that

 

Looks awesome IMO.



Anyone know the size? 16x8 or 16x9 (or other)?

 

You need spacers with the R33 wheels...?


-Ted

 

i like the r33 wheels on the 7... anyone know where i can get a set?

 

to sit as flush as it is on that car...

 

Takumi Project has them spec'd at 17" x 9", +30.
They will fit fine in the rear, but the fronts can only take about +20...maybe +25.
You need at least a 1/4" spacer up front minimum.


-Ted

 

and
wow, both those look way broken... I stand by my comments that 18" are stricky ricer/poser wheels on a FC. Of course the broken headlights on the second picture does not help things.

And people are talking about weight... remember a 20mm spacer adds about 3 lbs between spacer and longer studs to the rotational mass.

 

I kinda like the RX-8 wheels, not my cup of tea, but i think they look nice, i'll stick with my 16's

 

The R33 GT-R wheels aren't 18", they're only 17". The problem with that gunmetal FC (apart from the busted headlights) is not the wheels but the ruined suspension. Not only does it look silly being that low, I bet it handles like complete crap. What is so hard to understand about the concept of suspension travel?

 

^might i remind everyone that not everyone goes out and autoX's their car or races it...some people DO buy wheels bcuz THEY LIKE HOW IT LOOKS...in all honesty...who gives a **** what other people think? (unless its being judged in a car show)...im just saying some people on here are just making their comments based upon whether or not the wheels will increase or decrease performance...when the point of the thread was whether or not the wheels LOOKED GOOD...not how much they weigh...how well the performe etc...

sorry for the bitching...cuz i think they look good

 

spacers are required. it will not clear the shock body. they are very cheap, in the 4-600 dollar range. spacers add another 1-200 dollars.

what is wrong with spacers. oh yea, NOTHING. they change the offset of the wheel, nothing more. they are not any worse for your car than a wheel of the same effective offset. wheel spacers are frequently used in racing; older widebody porsches came with wheel spacers from the factory. If somone has had a wheel failure from a spacer, it is due to improper installation. (this information is in regards to bolt on spacers). extended studs and 20mm plate spacers is a cheap and crappy way to do things.

if you think they look bad, thats your opinion. my opinion? your car and its setup sucks ***. i can put a set of 18s on a car with proper tire size, alignment, offset, and have it drive like a champ. or i can be a dumbass and put the wrong size everything on the car and not adjust the suspension for the larger wheels and the car will drive like crap. its all in how much you care about your car and its setup.

BN Sports.

again, BN Sports. version select makes a gpsports replica for FC rx7s.
the wing appears to be bomex? its ugly.

they WILL be fine doing ANYTHING with the car as long as you install the studs properly and such. there is NOTHING wrong with spacers as covered in my previous reply.

if you would prefer to keep your stock wheel studs and go for a more solid type of spacer, i would reccomend somthing similar to these http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/KYO-E...spagenameZWDVW
plate spacers are fine but with the bolt on spacers you dont have a thing jiggling around on your wheel hub every time you change wheels and stuff.

maybe because the owner put them on the car? who cares? useless post.

what? this post makes absolutley no sense at all. firstly, not to be grammar police, but questions generally end with a question mark. stock 15" wheels are far from the "best handling and performance". stock wheels are for grannie to drive around on her 205/55 m/s tires when she goes to the grocery store at 5 mph under the speed limit. again, stock wheels suck at drag racing, and road course stuff. stock width, AGAIN, is FAR from ideal. The performance gain from using a larger wheel is in the decreased profile of the tire, which begets sharper turn in, decreased body roll from less sidewall flex, and better tire compound selection. joe schmoe rolls around town on 15" wheels and dosent care what tires are on his car, so there is far less selection of quality tires in this size range. To reiterate, this is quite possibly the most stupid, poorly worded post i have read on this forum.

the only wheel that is similar to an r33 wheel is the hanbai ＭＳ-０１０.

size is 17x9 +30 before spacers front and rear.

no ****?

www.ebay.com
www.takumiproject.com
www.wheelchoice.com
www.ggarageusa.com
www.jspec.com

etc

need more than that, else it will look like crap

18" wheels have their benefits, see higher up in my post. Statik is far from a poser. And in the second picture, thats an intentional modification to set the headlights halfway up. Im sure you already knew this, but instead decided to call them "broken" at an attempt to be witty and snide. Wheel spacers, while weighing a completly insignificant amount, also increase track width, which makes the car slightly more stable. I thought id mention that since we are talking about aspects of a car that have completly negligible effects on performance. While im on the subject, you can save a pound or 2 by dunking your wheels in paint stripper. You can also increase performance by decreasing unsprung weight by grinding the tops off of your lugnuts.

Lowered cars, when done correctly, like that car (not cut springs and blown shocks, as you seem to think) handle far better than stock by controlling body roll more efficiently, quickening response, more efficiently transferring body motion into the suspension (when spherical upper mounts are used) and basically just keeping the wheels more firmly planted to the pavment. suspension travel is not compromised AT ALL when using a quality aftermarket suspension. On any decent aftermarket suspension the lower mount will be threaded to allow the shock to move up and down independant of the mount.


CLIFFS NOTES -

you guys need to get your **** straight.

 

^^best post ever

 

You obviously don't know anough about the subject to be making statements like this.
Go read up on road racing sanctions and wheel spacers before making such false statements.
Also, might I recommend a book on race car dynamics and engineering?
Your false statements on having no effect on handling by changing the offset are way off the truth.



What kind of assine comments is this?


You don't know how wrong that is...
What does larger diameter have to do with compound?!?
How about I run 13" slicks?
I'd bet I could out-turn and out-corner you in almost any situation.


Again, what's with the assine comments?
I bet I know more about offset and wheel fitments then you would ever want to...


I guess it's convenient that running a spacer does compromise fastener strength...


Wrong.
The whole package needs to work together.
Making a general statement like...
Dropping the chassis = automatic instant better suspension performance
...is just ludicrous.



No wonder you don't know what you're talking about.
Cliff Notes are for cheaters who didn't do their homework.
Next time read the entire book before making any comments...


-Ted

 

Now don't you feel embarassed?


-Ted

 

if it makes you 16k post ego feel better, sure.

 

man heated discussion, all i have to say is . . . backfat!!!!!

 

i know plenty about wheel spacers. i have used many in the past and have never had a failure. i said nothing about wheel spacers not altering handling. i merely said that using a wheel spacer to push a wheel further out will have the exact same affect as a lower offset wheel. obviously it will affect scrub radius and track width, among other things. the suspension dosent care if im using a 17x8 +40 or a 17x8 +20 with a 20mm spacer. "they are not any worse for your car than a wheel of the same effective offset." Im not using any spacers right now, but im sure I will use more in the future. Find me any information about a failed wheel spacer where the user properly torqued all the lugs and had substantial thread engagment.

one just as assanine as a blanket comment about 18" wheels looking and performing like ***. everything has its place. I was just proving a point. I see it escaped you.

the vast majority of users on this forum drive their cars on the street. this is a situation in which you wouldnt want to have a 13" slick. I didnt think i would have to clarify this for you, but if i have to go into detail then i will. Lets say i want to run an advan a048 tire, and I have some awesome forged hollowspoke magnesium fancy low unsprung weight 16x10 wheels in the perfect offset. OOPS. the widest tire i can buy is a 225. If i had bought 18" wheels, I could go all the way up to a 315 tire. oh well. 16s are better for "performance" so i guess ill go cruise around town on my 13" slicks and die in the rain.

If that were true, I wouldnt have had any room to post an assanine comment, because you would have already known the answer to your assanine post. If you need help fitting some wheels let me know. reverse 2 piece, high camber "drifter style", full grip modified overfenders, etc etc let me know.

Im sure it does. putting performance suspension on your car compromises ride quality. scraping out sound deadening compromises interior noise. putting wider wheels and tires on the front axle compromises scrub radius. is it worth it to you to check your lug nuts with a torque wrench every once in a while? if not, then maybe spacers arent for you.


how did you pull "Dropping the chassis = automatic instant better suspension performance" from my post? i agree that that is indeed ludicrous. notice how i said "when done right". This would include bumpsteer, camber, toe, etc correction, as all these settings will change in a detrimental fashion if the car is haphazardly lowered. a lowered center of gravity alone will not make a car handle well. Im sure you know about roll center and such so no reason to continue.

cute.

 

Those are not "cheapo base model" mirrors, they are stock JDM mirrors. You may not like they look of them, but they do their job considerably better that the silly little mirrors you like. I certainly wouldn't swap mine.

Don't put words in my mouth. If I though it had "cut springs and blown shocks" I would've said so. The only reason to lower a car that much is for posing, not handling. Not even genuine FC race cars aren't that low, and they're set-up for smooth racetracks. I'd love to see that car trying to go fast on a rough country road. The excessive negative camber on the rear is a clear sign that this suspension set-up is far from ideal.

And we're all well aware the headlights are modded, just as most of us are aware they look broken and look like ***.

 

Hmmmmm, I dunno. The cartoonish appearance of the RX8 wheels don't fit the all business porsche 944 / 928 look of the FC in my opinion. Wheels = funky, FC =

 

what? who goes bombing down bumpy dirt roads? i set my car up for (relativley) smooth pavment. Im sure a lot of other people do as well. when my car gets into bumpy country areas, stuff is usually broken. How can you tell the camber is excessive from looking at a side shot? its probably 2 or 3 negative. plus the car is used for drifting anyway. so traditional setup need not apply. haha.

hmm, these cars look pretty low to me, and i think they are genuine rx7 race cars. I guess they just have it set that way to look cool, huh?






^ what a riced out junker, his car is tucking wheel! Sebring and Daytona is for posers.

 

Go ask 87GTR about his wheel spacers failing and falling off...
Hell, I think a search on here should turn up some information.
Your quest is a loaded one, cause most racing sanctions ban wheel spacers - so how do I find an example of a failed wheel spacer when racers can't use it?


I really don't care.
I never made a comment about 18" wheels looking like "***".



Why would I want to be limited to the Yokohama Advan A048?
Why would I want to run 16" x 10" rims?
What the hell is the "perfect offset"?

Your argument is going no where.
Why would a "relatively" stock FC *WANT* to run 315 wide tires?
The car can't possible use all that rubber, and the increase in weight is surely detrimental.
Now, if you're like us trying to shoot for 700hp with a 20B, the arguing about 315's is a valid point.
But, it takes money to build something like that.
If you got the money, it opens up a lot more options...wide fenders, redone suspension, etc.

You're going off on a tangent here.


No need to bother...it's all in my head already.

The word "compromise" is relative.
My car is downright loud and uncomfortable, but I don't think so.
What you might call "compromise", I see it as a "performance upgrade".
You can't apply all your POV's on everyone else...


You might want to go reread your own words.
I think you missed something back there...


-Ted

 

Oh wow, now we're comparing street cars to IMSA GTO / GTU and SCCA Pro Racing chassis...

*bzzt* sorry, try again...


-Ted