Kamatari

Hi everyone, out of the many questions about my car i'll start with this! My car is a UK 1989 FC

The ecu in my car is "n322 18 881c", i'm looking at installing an s-afc neo and whilst the first two wiring blocks seem to match the wiring diagram that apexi provide, the third block is small than what apexi say and where it says the rpm wire is, it's not on mine!

So my question is, does anyone have the wiring diagram for a UK spec ecu or have any tips as to what i can do?

Thanks guys!

HAILERS2

Your car have a dizzy/distributor instead of a CAS? Probably so.

Try APEXI USA's site. I think they have a queston area on it for.......questions.

Or there's a EUROPEAN FORUM on this site you might ask the same question in. England isn't exactly European but I think that site covers you anyway.

At the bottom of this page (I think) is a block called FORUM JUMP you can scroll thru til you find EUROPEAN FORUM.

If you had a wiring diagram for your car it would help. Not the diagrams on this site 'cause they're all USA.

USA first gen had a dizzy. Seems I could look there and find what the tach wire color was and then see if your England dizzy has the same color wiring. Sort of half *** way of doing things.

Kamatari

Thanks for the reply, i'll try posting this thread there aswell

Havent really got a wiring diagram for my car and everything i find is generally is generally US related :/

HAILERS2

Ask a fellow named HIGGI in the European forum. I think he might have schematics.

hIGGI

iTrader: (7)

I will upload it later in the night

hIGGI

iTrader: (7)

Connector Ba-23, pin called M, color Black

Its wire from Trailing coil and it goes to Tacho (Yellow wire) and ECU (Black wire)

Hailers, please correct me if am reading wiring diagram wrong

http://rx7cz.net/pics/IMG_0655.JPG

Kamatari

Thank you very much! i will give it a try

Kamatari

Ok new problem.... I've wired it all up as per the apexi manual apart from doing the rpm from a different point, but the only thing is, the device doesn't turn on! I would say all of my connections are fine which would lead me to think that the wiring needs to be different? Any ideas?

hiroichi1515

iTrader: (17)

Just attach power and ground directly to see if the unit even works. That's always the 1st thing I do.

HAILERS2

I enlarged HIGGI's jpg a bit where the *M* tach wire goes. I also enlarged another plug that shows where the black/white switched power wire is at the ECU.

Seems your SAFC has no power going to it or no good ground going to it..........like Hiroichi suggested. Seems it's like he said.......if you have good power going to the SAFC and a good ground that alone should turn the device on even it the other inputs are lacking.

I have not used a SAFC in yrs but do have one laying on a back shelf somewhere in the shed. I might try this for you on my SAFC, if you don't get results by putting power to yours and a good gnd to yours.

Kamatari

cheers for the replies! i will test to make sure the thing still powers on, it did when i brought it:p

currently i do have my power wired to the black/white wire as you've indicated although the ground im using is on the middle block of pins which the apexi wiring manual says
This is the apexi thing (taken from 1300cc)


Now i could be completely wrong in following it but where it says 'ig power' is the black/white wire and the ground it points to is a black wire...

HAILERS2

I ask, do you have two plugs on YOUR ECU that look identical to the ones in the last post I made on this thread?

If so, then I'd use the ones in those jpgs.

Do you have a digital meter? Do you have power on the black/white wire your presently using?

For a ground use the bracket that the ECU is mounted to right now. Just do this to prove whether or not your SAFC will even turn on or not. No sense going any further with this if the SAFC is toast. You should just need a proven power source and a proven ground point to see if the SAFC works or not.

Have YOU ever seen YOUR safc working? Just saying that it could be broken from a previous owner????

Kamatari

let me check all the power and everything,

As for the plugs, i do have ones the same as what you pointed out which in terms of the apexi picture would match the first and third blocks where the black/white power is in the same place as the apexi picture although i can try the ground from a different point after ive tested but i know i have it connected to a black wire that is meant to be a ground

Kamatari

thought i'd just update here incase anyone was wondering...

Wired the afc into the car now and it all turns on but now im on another problem, when i come to start the car with it all setup (no adjustments or anything) the car wont start but when i uplug the wires for the air flow and just connect the original ones... it all works fine.

So now my problem is either the wires from the afc OR the settings im using, currently got the sensor type set to Flap and on 5in 5out, ive also got the the "car type" set to 4cylinder and throttle pointing to top right...

Kamatari

Well i had another go but still cant seem to get the car to start with the air flow wires connected from the afc, checking the voltages it seem to be right from when the original wires are connected and with the afc wires are....

Has anyone got any ideas?

HAILERS2

Somewhere on that device you can go to a area that shows the afm volage. What does yours read? I'm pretty sure of this. Gee, I really don't want to go read the SAFC manual to make sure I'm right about this. Anyway that's what I'd do, just to see if the SAFC is showing it in the circuit.

Also under the ETC function you can INITIALIZE the thing which means it goes to a defaut setting and you ??? start all over again? I'd check the SENSOR voltage first and make sure its in range.

Kamatari

my voltage when the original wires are connected and key turned to ON says about 1.5v, when i have plugged the wires from the afc in and go to sensor check the in and out voltages both say 1.5v with the key turned to ON...

Ive done the initialize a couple of times now heh, just annoying now that everything else works (rpm, throttle etc) execpt the air flow wires now...argh

HAILERS2

http://www.apexi-usa.com/info/downlo...d=6118&rsku=0#

Let's say you go to ETC and look at the voltage of IN 1, which should be the afms voltage output . IF you look at that voltage figure and then move the vane in the afm aft slowly, does that figure change at all? Should.

What's your throttle sensor voltage read. Not required for starting but just wondering. Might be a clue somehow.

Try the same thing but have only the factory wiring attached. Backprove the wire that is supposed to be afm input and read the voltage. Then move the vane in the afm aft slowly and see if the voltgae moves with the vane.

With the engine off the voltage is about 4.5 vdc and as you move the vane aft the reading goes waaaay down to ??? one vdc or less at full vane aft.

I say to do this to determine IF your really on the input wire for the afm or not. On USA cars that wire is green/blue in color.

I'd slap my SAFC back on one of the cars but.........they are all running ethanol and that would be just a big pain in the neck to try to get a SAFC to even idle those cars. Using RTEK 2.0 on them with 720 injectors. No way a SAFC could even idle the cars.

EDIT: Maybe even go back and look at SENSOR TYPE. Make SURE it's FLAP. I remember one time the car would not start and I went back and looked at things and lo and behold it showed HOT WIRE or such and there's NO WAY I ever clicked on hot wire for my car, but it was there. So I changed back to Flap and the car started. I suspect International Communism conspiracy cause the hot wire to show up there. Dand reds. Whar's mah guun.

HAILERS2

The G/L or green/blue afm wire coming from the front of the car..........tell me what is the color of the wire on the SAFC's pigtail harness that you have connected to that G/L wire? White or Yellow ????

The G/L wire leaving the ECU plug.........what is the color of the wire on the SAFC pigtail that that G/L wire is connected to??????

Maybe got the yellow and white wires connected backwards??????? Just guessing here.

Kamatari

Ok from having another look today it would seem if i try and start the car it'll just die straight away but if i try and start it again it'll stay on but idle poor but as soon as you touch the throttle the car dies.

obviously with the original wires connected everything is fine, when the car is set to ON the voltages are 1.5v which is the same with afc connected... when the car manages to stay started it seems like the voltage is about 2.5v(i think) on the input and the output is 2.090v and this is running no corrections or anything. ive got the yellow wire going into the ecu and the white wire is connected on the other end of the wire (as the wiring guide said)

It's definately set to FLAP and ive tried 5in 5out and 6in 6out (and every other one i can do) and it all has the same result..

Ive tried running without the rpm or throttle wires attached just incase they were doing something but made no difference.... although ive noticed that the rpm is out by quite a bit where it reads about 5k when dash says 2.5k...

its getting quite annoying at the moment especially as i have my wideband coming in the next few days

HAILERS2

A series four or five RX does not need the afm for STARTING purposes. The AFM is used after the rpms have gone over 500rpm, then it's needed to stay running/driving.

Plus once the key is moved back from Start to just ON, the fuel pump working is controlled by the afm/ECU. On a series four the pump relys on a switch inside the afm *making* when the vane in the afm is moved aft approx 1/8" or more. ON series five it's afm/ecu controlled to stay running.

Did you ever turn the key ON, engine OFF and move the vane in the afm to see if the voltage read on the ETC screeen for afm changes? or not. Seems that's valuable information to fix this. Just remove the air filter and move the vane with your finger. OOPS, not vane but ?? whatever that cone is called on a series five in the afm.

There is a SAFC FORUM on this site. Have you tried that forum?

Or there's a couple of other RX forums. One is called Rotary Car Club. Google it for the location.

Kamatari

when the car starts it does the cold start warm up so hits 3k from start and then either cuts or drops to about 500rpm and then as soon as you touch the throttle the car cuts out...

I havent checked what you've mentioned as read it after i got back from where my car is so will have a look tomorrow, my car is a a 1989 but its a UK model so believe its just a S4 but going by what youve said, i just need to open the air box and remove the filter and look for something to move :p just to try and be a bit pre-emptive but lets say it is the right wire any other ideas what it might be to give me more things to try Obviously if its not the right wire then i'll just have to check every pin

i believe ive got a post in the safc part already but dont think as many people check it

HAILERS2

Well maybe there is something positive I can add. The tach wire needs to be spliced to the Y/L wire coming off the Trail Coil in my opinion.

The way things are set up now for the tach is it's reading the LEAD coil assy which fires in the wasted spark mode. Meaning its making the SAFC read twice what it should. Lead plugs fire twice as much as is needed and it's done this way 'cause they're cheap skates.

Splicing into the Y/L wire should fix that. Long way from the ECU though. Might just lay a long piece of spare wire b/t the Y/L on the trail coil assy and splice into it at the SAFC for a test to see if this fixes the problem. Should.

That might help with the *other* problem. Just a wag on that. About a ten percent chance of that happening.

Kamatari

Ah is the wire that i have the rpm cut into now not from the trailing coil as hIGGI mentioned? cant remember if i have the rpm wire disconnected at the moment from testing so will give it a try anyway although the rpm is a bit lower on the list of things at the moment

HAILERS2

Opps. I was wrong. That IS off the Trail coil assy. Darn. But try that Y/L wire anyway since it heads for the tach. Can't hurt to try a jury rig on it.

EDIT: Ah heck, that wire is also spliced to the wire going to the ECU. Bad info from me. No since trying that. I was wrong. Hard to get interested in SAFC's again. Seems I remember something like this happening to me once using a SAFC.