Hello all,
I am new to the rotary world and am looking for some advise.
First of all the car i am looking at is a 1990 RX-7 turbo(it's a JDM model). I would like to make around 350whp and am curious as to what it takes to get that from these engines. What kind of prices am I looking at. Also what is a ball park price for an engine rebuild.
Thanks
Brandon

 

First off, do a full 60K tune up, replacing all the fluids (including brake, clutch, tranny, engine oil, coolant, and rear end lube), spark plugs and cables, all filters (including fuel, oil and air), belts, any hoses that are leaking or bulging, and the O2 sensor. In addition if the car is more than 10 years old or has more than 120K miles on it, the Pulsation Dampener (or pimary fuel rail and integrated Pulsation Dampener on 89-91 FCs) should be also replaced.

(the above was copy and posted from https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-generation-specific-1986-1992-17/frequently-asked-questions-2nd-generation-rx-7-faq-fc-494667/)

Replace your exhaust sytem with one from Racingbeat.com (you could go another brand, just I thought of them first, lol)

Standalone fuel management

Turbo upgrade

New turbo manifold

fuel system upgrade......etc....

The list goes on and on if you need more info on it just use the search function, but those should put you on the right path.

As far as rebuilds go try

www.Atkinsrotarty.com

www.Rotaryresurrection.com

There are more but those are some of the cheapest. Also please read the stickies and run a search to get better results, not alot of people respond because this has been asked countless times before

All that aside welcome to the world of the rotary, it can cost more than the normal pison engine, but its so much fun

 

Also when getting your rebuild, have it street ported or bridge ported. This will make the ports larger and give you some more power. And upgrade your apex seals to 3mm so you can handle more boost. Im doing the same to my turbo II and i plan on running 14lbs of boost and 3mm can handle quite more than that. stock is 2mm.

 

Totally forgot about the 3mm (i have a n/a) Deff. Get that upgraded like he said, although some places do it for no extra cost when you get the turbo motor rebuild, and extra if you want it done on the N/A.

FIX for the link I posted above: www.atkinsrotary.com

 

or not, 3mm is a waste of time and money and also adds wear to the engine, do not go 3mm unless your rotors are worn! it is a buffer for faulty tuning, find a reputable tuner rather than adding the buffer. 3mm is a real waste in an n/a there is no point unless your rotors are worn beyond 2mm service limits.

 

I agree with Karack on this one. 2mm mazda seals are the way to go. Unless you are building a racing engine, 3mm is a waste of time. Poor tuning with break 3mm seals just like its breaks 2mm seals...

 

mazda went from 3mm to 2mm for a reason.. its about time people caught on.

 

Well he said he wants 350whp. I still think the 3mm would be better, but im not saying 2mm is bad. Ive just heard stories of 2mm cracking under high boost and 3mm holding up. But if you do stay with 2mm get high performance cause theyre a lot tougher than stock.

 

And he said he wanted a 1990 turbo. Read before posting! Yeah i agree it would be pointless to add 3mm to a NA but since he wants the turbo i still think it would be a good idea.

 

2mm has been proven up to 900RWHP time and time again, 350 is no problem for 2mm as i referred so long as the tuning and add ons are adequate.

 

and (haha) why dont you read rx7racer46 he refered to the n/a comment because of DJRcustoms post about n/a's so why are you even correcting someone