RX-7 FC - good first car?
10-21-17, 12:30 AM
#51
Super Moderator
iTrader: (1)
Don't Worry, Be Happy, and Drive an FC
I am a 16-year old boy from the St. Louis area (turning 17 in November) who is looking for an N/A Mazda RX-7 FC as a first car. I have a driver's permit (not yet a license), I am currently taking driver's ed, and I have at least 24 hours of driving experience. I have been looking into getting an RX-7 FC as my first car for a few years now and I have done plenty of research on this car during the meantime. From my research, I have concluded that an N/A RX-7 has great handing, they would be decent daily drivers, and that they are for the most part reliable especially for a car with a rotary engine. My dad owned a 1990 RX-7 coupe for a few years in the early 90's and from what he has experienced he believes it would be a good first car for me. I'm going to try and avoid getting a Turbo II as the insurance rates will most definitely go up from the N/A and I feel like a Turbo II is suited for more experienced drivers rather than a first-time driver.
Any thoughts on getting the RX-7 FC as a first car and which years and/or trim levels I should be looking towards?
Any thoughts on getting the RX-7 FC as a first car and which years and/or trim levels I should be looking towards?
Your first car is like your first love. It will always be remembered because it will give you increased freedoms, increased independence, bring much joy, and bring much sadness. If you want an FC then get it! You would not be disappointed. They are fairly easy to work on, parts are relatively available, and upkeep maintenance is simple. These cars only have 1 O2 sensor and no OBD2 connector so there is no computer to spew out codes when something goes wrong. Commune with your car; get to know its noises and quirks. It helps you become a better problem solver. Just don't be the kind of person who's level of car care only extends to keeping the gas tank full, turn the key, and press hard on the "go" pedal.
As for specific recommendations, try to find the least molested FC, potentially 90/91 model year, manual transmission, and a coupe. Consider the other options to be gravy. Since you are a new driver, the FC has a big rearward blind spot, so be careful when changing lanes or backing out of a stall. I recall a big difference in blind spots when I transitioned from my FB to FC. Word of advice, it doesn't improve in an FD! BTW, most sports cars have bad blind spots so be especially vigilant and align your rear/side mirrors properly. A convertible complicates the blind spot further!
The FC can be driven daily. Although it gets hungry quickly. A stock FC has an average fuel economy rating of 17 City and 24 Highway. So make sure you can afford to feed the car's belly! If the engine isn't modified then feed it 87 octane and add some pre-mix into the tank. When I drive my Vert, I get roughly 200mi on 3/4 of a tank. Avoid letting the tank get below 1/4 because the fuel system could pump some nastiness into the engine. However, that advice should be followed for most vehicles not just an FC. Finally, get the factory service manual (FSM) and use the Search function on the forum. Between these two pieces of advice, you can fix anything on an FC. Not to mention a 10mm socket and a Phillips screw driver wouldn't hurt either!
Does this answer your question?
Cheers,
George
10-22-17, 09:07 AM
#52
The 1/4 tank thing is a myth...
The FC, unlike most cars, has a drain in the bottom of the tank you can use for cleaning it out. Simply do this, replace your strainer, and it doesn't matter how low you let it run, it wont suck up anything more than it would half or full.
However, the pumps are kept cool by being submerged.. so dont run it super low all the time.
The FC, unlike most cars, has a drain in the bottom of the tank you can use for cleaning it out. Simply do this, replace your strainer, and it doesn't matter how low you let it run, it wont suck up anything more than it would half or full.
However, the pumps are kept cool by being submerged.. so dont run it super low all the time.
10-22-17, 09:24 AM
#53
Rotary Freak
I still drive mine daily, had it over a year now.
There were lots of things that needed to be done at first because mine sat unused for three years before I bought it, but aside from brakes nothing that was too expensive.
Regarding what has been said about the fuel pump, I have input. While the pump won't be sucking stuff up other than gasoline (unless the tank is so dirty as to clog the strainer, in which case it won't suck up anything), just to replace the strainer in the tank is going to be difficult because of the famously bad screws that retain the pump flange to the top of the tank. The only time the car has ever failed to get me to work on time is the time my pump died, and I had to drain and drop the tank to remove the screws. Then they wouldn't come out, even with broken screw removers, slotting them for a flathead screwdriver, penetrating oil, vice grips, etc. Had to drill out and tap each one, and then the harness from the pump to the connector to the car harness was all ratty so I had to make a new one from scratch.
My reason for saying this is twofold, one is that this is a potential problem you could face if you work on the fuel tank. Two is that I want to illustrate how quickly a project on a car this old can spiral out into days or weeks. I think it took me 6 or 7 days to take care of the fuel pump replacement, especially because I was still working full time.
I can't emphasize enough how reliable this car has been for me, with the exception of some little electrical quirks. However, when something goes wrong it will be down for awhile because you are looking for a rare part, or struggling with stuck bolts, etc.
I also want to second that you should buy a second car for the winter at least. I am getting a second one this year, not so much because of reliability or driveability, but because Rx7s rust very quickly if not rust proofed every year, and even then it can still happen. I want mine to last awhile.
There were lots of things that needed to be done at first because mine sat unused for three years before I bought it, but aside from brakes nothing that was too expensive.
Regarding what has been said about the fuel pump, I have input. While the pump won't be sucking stuff up other than gasoline (unless the tank is so dirty as to clog the strainer, in which case it won't suck up anything), just to replace the strainer in the tank is going to be difficult because of the famously bad screws that retain the pump flange to the top of the tank. The only time the car has ever failed to get me to work on time is the time my pump died, and I had to drain and drop the tank to remove the screws. Then they wouldn't come out, even with broken screw removers, slotting them for a flathead screwdriver, penetrating oil, vice grips, etc. Had to drill out and tap each one, and then the harness from the pump to the connector to the car harness was all ratty so I had to make a new one from scratch.
My reason for saying this is twofold, one is that this is a potential problem you could face if you work on the fuel tank. Two is that I want to illustrate how quickly a project on a car this old can spiral out into days or weeks. I think it took me 6 or 7 days to take care of the fuel pump replacement, especially because I was still working full time.
I can't emphasize enough how reliable this car has been for me, with the exception of some little electrical quirks. However, when something goes wrong it will be down for awhile because you are looking for a rare part, or struggling with stuck bolts, etc.
I also want to second that you should buy a second car for the winter at least. I am getting a second one this year, not so much because of reliability or driveability, but because Rx7s rust very quickly if not rust proofed every year, and even then it can still happen. I want mine to last awhile.
10-22-17, 10:33 AM
#54
Constant threat
If you want some advice from an 'old timer' with 40+ years of car ownership, here goes:
There are good used cars and bad used cars from ANY manufacturer, even the (said in hushed tones of awe and admiration) cars from Honda and Toyota, lol.
How a vehicle was treated during it's first 5 years often sets the stage for its overall longevity. How a used car LOOKS is a very good indicator of how it IS. A car that is beat up, missing interior and exterior pieces, has a taped up tail light lens, and an engine bay that is covered in grit and grime is one to stay clear of, regardless of manufacturer.
People rave about the reliability of Hondas and Toyotas, and deservedly so. However, the 13B rotary is an awesome engine, also. I put 173,000 miles on my FC and...never spent a dime on the car other than normal maintenance. Granted, I bought it new but I also took great care of it. The last time I talked to the second owner (about two years ago), he told me it had over 240,000 and that the a/c had died (electronic dash panel), and he'd put a clutch in it.
So yes, I would have no hesitation in recommending the FC as a first car with the following caveats:
There are good used cars and bad used cars from ANY manufacturer, even the (said in hushed tones of awe and admiration) cars from Honda and Toyota, lol.
How a vehicle was treated during it's first 5 years often sets the stage for its overall longevity. How a used car LOOKS is a very good indicator of how it IS. A car that is beat up, missing interior and exterior pieces, has a taped up tail light lens, and an engine bay that is covered in grit and grime is one to stay clear of, regardless of manufacturer.
People rave about the reliability of Hondas and Toyotas, and deservedly so. However, the 13B rotary is an awesome engine, also. I put 173,000 miles on my FC and...never spent a dime on the car other than normal maintenance. Granted, I bought it new but I also took great care of it. The last time I talked to the second owner (about two years ago), he told me it had over 240,000 and that the a/c had died (electronic dash panel), and he'd put a clutch in it.
So yes, I would have no hesitation in recommending the FC as a first car with the following caveats:
- teenage boys are often young, dumb, and full of ***...but you aren't indestructible and die as easy as the rest of us. These cars don't have anywhere close to the number of safety features that modern cars do, they are very lightweight metal (I once dented my rear fender with my thumb when holding the car up as it was falling off a jack) and simply don't do too well in big wrecks. If you get one, drive it responsibly.
- Sub note to above - these cars LOOK fast but...aren't. Don't get fooled into drag racing some idiot who eggs you on...it isn't worth it. You've got about 150 hp, live with it, accept it.
- Avoid any car that isn't clean, clean, CLEAN. There were so many of these cars made that yes, you can find a 'nice' one that is worth buying. Avoid cars with extensive mods; the FC didn't respond well to them anyway, and most do more harm than good (intakes, exhaust, etc). Avoid cars sold by eager beavers, i.e. young folk looking to dump their misery onto someone else. If you can find THAT car that was owned by a little old lady...buy it.
- An old car like any FC you'll find WILL require some work, at the very least maintenance (no different than any other car), so honestly evaluate YOUR mechanical skills and/or those of any close friend or relative you can call on. If you don't have someone who can help you learn about cars, and has the tools and other resources like workspaces and manuals, then don't buy an FC. Don't buy ANYTHING other than a relatively new car that has a factory warranty. Believe me, and some of the other posts that say the same thing; you'll end up with a car that is broke down and just sits in the street or driveway, and you'll be walking or bumming rides from your friends/family, and possibly making payments on something that simply doesn't run.
10-22-17, 11:18 AM
#55
Super Moderator
iTrader: (1)
If you want some advice from an 'old timer' with 40+ years of car ownership, here goes:
There are good used cars and bad used cars from ANY manufacturer, even the (said in hushed tones of awe and admiration) cars from Honda and Toyota, lol.
How a vehicle was treated during it's first 5 years often sets the stage for its overall longevity. How a used car LOOKS is a very good indicator of how it IS. A car that is beat up, missing interior and exterior pieces, has a taped up tail light lens, and an engine bay that is covered in grit and grime is one to stay clear of, regardless of manufacturer.
People rave about the reliability of Hondas and Toyotas, and deservedly so. However, the 13B rotary is an awesome engine, also. I put 173,000 miles on my FC and...never spent a dime on the car other than normal maintenance. Granted, I bought it new but I also took great care of it. The last time I talked to the second owner (about two years ago), he told me it had over 240,000 and that the a/c had died (electronic dash panel), and he'd put a clutch in it.
So yes, I would have no hesitation in recommending the FC as a first car with the following caveats:
There are good used cars and bad used cars from ANY manufacturer, even the (said in hushed tones of awe and admiration) cars from Honda and Toyota, lol.
How a vehicle was treated during it's first 5 years often sets the stage for its overall longevity. How a used car LOOKS is a very good indicator of how it IS. A car that is beat up, missing interior and exterior pieces, has a taped up tail light lens, and an engine bay that is covered in grit and grime is one to stay clear of, regardless of manufacturer.
People rave about the reliability of Hondas and Toyotas, and deservedly so. However, the 13B rotary is an awesome engine, also. I put 173,000 miles on my FC and...never spent a dime on the car other than normal maintenance. Granted, I bought it new but I also took great care of it. The last time I talked to the second owner (about two years ago), he told me it had over 240,000 and that the a/c had died (electronic dash panel), and he'd put a clutch in it.
So yes, I would have no hesitation in recommending the FC as a first car with the following caveats:
- teenage boys are often young, dumb, and full of ***...but you aren't indestructible and die as easy as the rest of us. These cars don't have anywhere close to the number of safety features that modern cars do, they are very lightweight metal (I once dented my rear fender with my thumb when holding the car up as it was falling off a jack) and simply don't do too well in big wrecks. If you get one, drive it responsibly.
- Sub note to above - these cars LOOK fast but...aren't. Don't get fooled into drag racing some idiot who eggs you on...it isn't worth it. You've got about 150 hp, live with it, accept it.
- Avoid any car that isn't clean, clean, CLEAN. There were so many of these cars made that yes, you can find a 'nice' one that is worth buying. Avoid cars with extensive mods; the FC didn't respond well to them anyway, and most do more harm than good (intakes, exhaust, etc). Avoid cars sold by eager beavers, i.e. young folk looking to dump their misery onto someone else. If you can find THAT car that was owned by a little old lady...buy it.
- An old car like any FC you'll find WILL require some work, at the very least maintenance (no different than any other car), so honestly evaluate YOUR mechanical skills and/or those of any close friend or relative you can call on. If you don't have someone who can help you learn about cars, and has the tools and other resources like workspaces and manuals, then don't buy an FC. Don't buy ANYTHING other than a relatively new car that has a factory warranty. Believe me, and some of the other posts that say the same thing; you'll end up with a car that is broke down and just sits in the street or driveway, and you'll be walking or bumming rides from your friends/family, and possibly making payments on something that simply doesn't run.
That is some of the most sound advice given to any young man/woman wanting to get into an FC, or any RX-7 for that matter.
**Break**
Nloder,
What do you think, given all the posts to your original question?
Cheers,
George
10-22-17, 11:41 AM
#56
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These cars don't have anywhere close to the number of safety features that modern cars do, they are very lightweight metal (I once dented my rear fender with my thumb when holding the car up as it was falling off a jack) and simply don't do too well in big wrecks. If you get one, drive it responsibly.
An old car like any FC you'll find WILL require some work, at the very least maintenance (no different than any other car)
since i bought it i've done;
timing belt/water pump
drive belt
60k service
spark plug wires
o2 sensor
coolant temp sensor
rebuilt the shifter
cleaned and regreased the window regulators
adjusted the brakes (twice!)
engine mounts
radiator
ALL of the cooling system hoses
wipers
etc etc
just as a note the Miata is perceived as a simple reliable car, but it should be because everything is new at this point
10-22-17, 01:49 PM
#58
Full Member
The whole run the tank down thing is a bit of a myth anyway.
Remember that the pump is constantly circulating fuel from the tank, through the filter, then the rail and back into the tank again. As long as you use the car regularly and get fresh fuel in fairly often. Which given the economy of these you will do then it should stay pretty clean in there.
Remember that the pump is constantly circulating fuel from the tank, through the filter, then the rail and back into the tank again. As long as you use the car regularly and get fresh fuel in fairly often. Which given the economy of these you will do then it should stay pretty clean in there.
10-24-17, 03:14 PM
#60
Only advice I'm going to give is don't replace your engine with a $20 Walmart 20-odd piece socket set containing only a 3/8" drive ratchet, short extension, and sockets. I ended up buying tools as I needed (including big wrenches for the oil lines), and was constantly fighting with the car at every step. Back in '97 I think, when I was young and stupid. Actually I haven't changed that much!
Spend $200 on a good 1/4", 3/8" and 1/2" drive socket set, add a good set of wrenches and pliers, screwdrivers, and keep some money aside for a few more tools. Of course you'll have to buy a few more depending on the job, but at least you're starting off better off. You will never know how much trouble you'll save.
The above applies to any car, no matter how old. Especially if you plan on making this a hobby. But if you want a better hobby, get into Home Improvement/Repair. Pays off better.
As far as my FC is concerned, I don't drive it much now, but it was extremely reliable when I did. Just replace belts and hoses, catch up with any maintenance needed, and it won't be too bad.
P.S. A good mentor who knows how to work on cars, and likes to fix things properly is a blessing!
Spend $200 on a good 1/4", 3/8" and 1/2" drive socket set, add a good set of wrenches and pliers, screwdrivers, and keep some money aside for a few more tools. Of course you'll have to buy a few more depending on the job, but at least you're starting off better off. You will never know how much trouble you'll save.
The above applies to any car, no matter how old. Especially if you plan on making this a hobby. But if you want a better hobby, get into Home Improvement/Repair. Pays off better.
As far as my FC is concerned, I don't drive it much now, but it was extremely reliable when I did. Just replace belts and hoses, catch up with any maintenance needed, and it won't be too bad.
P.S. A good mentor who knows how to work on cars, and likes to fix things properly is a blessing!
10-24-17, 10:43 PM
#61
rotorhole
i think some of you guys are living in the past, ive been checking ads on cars for sale lately and mostly you see lots of gross project cars, with very few cars i'd trust to make it home after purchasing. with that caveat, the cars used to be common and were rather high production, but given the prices lately you can get a feel that the good clean decent cars have become rather rare.
2-3 years ago people were laughing at those who were asking $5k and up for a decent non turbo S4 FC, now people are saying how good of a deal those same cars are. at the same time people scoffed at anyone who asked for over $10k for an original turbo car, but how about now?
2-3 years ago people were laughing at those who were asking $5k and up for a decent non turbo S4 FC, now people are saying how good of a deal those same cars are. at the same time people scoffed at anyone who asked for over $10k for an original turbo car, but how about now?
Last edited by insightful; 10-24-17 at 10:49 PM.
10-25-17, 06:09 AM
#62
I still see decent ones I'd start with pop up for around 2,000 now and again, and I live in New England! Obviously the ultra clean, low mileage examples are going to cost good money. Oh well, true of anything. You really think this kids first FC should be a cream puff?