RX-7 Blow Off Valve! Help!
01-08-11, 12:32 PM
#1
RX-7 Blow Off Valve! Help!
Heres the story, I recentley read a right up on here about somone having there blow off valve hooked up wrong,and i got to thinking my blow off valve is on the opposite side of the engine & i thought that its supposed to be on the turbo side. Previosley i had an issue with it building boost there was a hestation, and if i feathered the gas through the pull it would be fine but anytime i tryed to boost the turbo it would spudder and fall on its face,Im wondering now if this was due to the blow off valve being installed on the wrong side of the engine, This is how i bought the car so this is nothing i have installed,All from the previous owner and im pretty sure the timing is off as well because the timing mark is way off from what it should be, so this could be some of the problem as well.any help would be appreciated.Here what the setup looks like!
01-08-11, 01:00 PM
#2
There is more than one way to hook up a BOV. Some cars have them after the intercooler, some have them before the intercooler, some have them bolted to the intercooler itself. Some engines have no BOV at all.
Your hesitation is probably something else, possibly tuning related. Your timing may not be off because you may not be checking it correctly. It looks like you have a standalone ECU. Checking the timing doesn't work the same way with a standalone.
Your hesitation is probably something else, possibly tuning related. Your timing may not be off because you may not be checking it correctly. It looks like you have a standalone ECU. Checking the timing doesn't work the same way with a standalone.
01-08-11, 02:21 PM
#4
RX-7 Blow Off Valve
There is more than one way to hook up a BOV. Some cars have them after the intercooler, some have them before the intercooler, some have them bolted to the intercooler itself. Some engines have no BOV at all.
Your hesitation is probably something else, possibly tuning related. Your timing may not be off because you may not be checking it correctly. It looks like you have a standalone ECU. Checking the timing doesn't work the same way with a standalone.
Your hesitation is probably something else, possibly tuning related. Your timing may not be off because you may not be checking it correctly. It looks like you have a standalone ECU. Checking the timing doesn't work the same way with a standalone.
01-08-11, 02:25 PM
#5
RX7 Blow Off Valve
The oil filter relocation kit is from Racingbeat, it was on the car when i bought it, I didnt like the way the Fram Hp1 filters looked so i put the Mazda factory filters on, wich they say are better than anything thats out there, so im told!
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01-08-11, 11:48 PM
#8
Boost makes cars smile.
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Ha. Nice, Cygnus. THAT'll fix it!
Like Arghx said, there are a few different ways to run your BOV. My experience is to have it between the IC and TB, but that can cause problems if you have any issues with your TB sticking open, a little (not fully closing when you release the gas). This is due to the fact that the vacuum that occurs when the BOV opens actually sucks air from the engine, causing a negative vacuum condition (closer to '0' on the Boost/ Vac gauge - Ever notice the your gauge sits at '0' when the car's not on?). This basically makes the engine stumble a bit, trying to recover the amount of required vac to idle.
The inverse is to run it between the turbo and the IC. This is more commonly found on2nd gens than any other setup. I haven't seen any results that show this is more beneficial, versus another way; I think it's purely to break up the long section of piping on the passenger-side.
As far as the BOV directly mounted ON the IC, I've done a few Soobies that run them that way (factory recirc location), and they just replace the recirc with an open BOV. One of the MKIV Supra setups is on the cold side of the FMIC, using an RFL...
When THAT puppy opens you hear it a couple of BLOCKS away.
Realistically, it's purely a matter of personal preference. As long as that sucker opens correctly, under vacuum, it doesn't matter WHERE it is, as long as it's between charge pipe and TB.
Regarding the dual-filters: I've run them on some track-only cars, due to the improved filtration, but all-in-all it's probably not going to benefit you, one iota. A simple filter relocation kit is USUALLY a single element, as opposed to dual, but quantity not-with-standing, it's for easier access (enabling quick-changes), and heat protection (slowing degradation due to extreme heat).
The end-all to this is not to worry about where it's placed, as long as your vacuum reference is good...
That and for you to get that Haltech tuned, ASAP.
Like Arghx said, there are a few different ways to run your BOV. My experience is to have it between the IC and TB, but that can cause problems if you have any issues with your TB sticking open, a little (not fully closing when you release the gas). This is due to the fact that the vacuum that occurs when the BOV opens actually sucks air from the engine, causing a negative vacuum condition (closer to '0' on the Boost/ Vac gauge - Ever notice the your gauge sits at '0' when the car's not on?). This basically makes the engine stumble a bit, trying to recover the amount of required vac to idle.
The inverse is to run it between the turbo and the IC. This is more commonly found on2nd gens than any other setup. I haven't seen any results that show this is more beneficial, versus another way; I think it's purely to break up the long section of piping on the passenger-side.
As far as the BOV directly mounted ON the IC, I've done a few Soobies that run them that way (factory recirc location), and they just replace the recirc with an open BOV. One of the MKIV Supra setups is on the cold side of the FMIC, using an RFL...
When THAT puppy opens you hear it a couple of BLOCKS away.
Realistically, it's purely a matter of personal preference. As long as that sucker opens correctly, under vacuum, it doesn't matter WHERE it is, as long as it's between charge pipe and TB.
Regarding the dual-filters: I've run them on some track-only cars, due to the improved filtration, but all-in-all it's probably not going to benefit you, one iota. A simple filter relocation kit is USUALLY a single element, as opposed to dual, but quantity not-with-standing, it's for easier access (enabling quick-changes), and heat protection (slowing degradation due to extreme heat).
The end-all to this is not to worry about where it's placed, as long as your vacuum reference is good...
That and for you to get that Haltech tuned, ASAP.
01-09-11, 01:29 PM
#10
Thanks for all the Info Guys! All is Appreciated!! A couple of more questions! Is it normal for the car not to want to start in cold weather? Car ran fine for the most part when it was warmer out i drove it back from North Carolina, other than having to feather the gas and not boost it at all it ran fine for the most part.recentley i had to replace the plugs because they were soaked with fuel i guess thats pretty much normal noing it needs to be tuned,Im thinking of taking it to RX-7 World where the work was done but its a little far from me here in Maryland but there arnt alot of Rotary shops around my area.
01-09-11, 01:32 PM
#11
sounds like the cold maps need to be tweaked some, a compression test probably isn't a bad idea either to find out the condition of the internals if you happen to have any sort of warranty still. also try to find out how to lock the timing with the EMS and check it against the timing marks, i wouldn't mess with it until you talk to your tuner but it may give you an idea why the car is difficult to start.
01-09-11, 02:19 PM
#14
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where did you hook up the vacuum hose for the bov? it needs to be connected after the TB.
location of the bov is no problem, you can put it anywhere you like
location of the bov is no problem, you can put it anywhere you like
01-09-11, 10:48 PM
#18
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Check those vac sources! Not all of them register vac. Easiest way is to pull your boost gauge an op it around, from reference to reference, while the car's idling.
Have someone IN the car to tell you when it vacs dows. Then, all you have to do is reconnect the boost-gauge to it's original source and the BOV to the new one...
One recommendation is to tee them from the same source - ONLY THOSE TWO. That way, A) you'll know where they're both vac'ed into and the boost reference will keep the BOV fully seated when under boost...
'Course, depending how your WG is setup, you COULD tag it and the BOV to the same reference, with a one-way check valve to the WG. That way BOTH the BOV and the WG will open under vac (think Turbonetics Racegate, with dual nipples).
I think the SRT4 ran the same way... Can't remember how the check-valve system was setup, though.
Have someone IN the car to tell you when it vacs dows. Then, all you have to do is reconnect the boost-gauge to it's original source and the BOV to the new one...
One recommendation is to tee them from the same source - ONLY THOSE TWO. That way, A) you'll know where they're both vac'ed into and the boost reference will keep the BOV fully seated when under boost...
'Course, depending how your WG is setup, you COULD tag it and the BOV to the same reference, with a one-way check valve to the WG. That way BOTH the BOV and the WG will open under vac (think Turbonetics Racegate, with dual nipples).
I think the SRT4 ran the same way... Can't remember how the check-valve system was setup, though.
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