Rustastic... ...how bad is it/is my car dead?
03-01-06, 11:00 AM
#26
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Originally Posted by autocrash
Ehhh.... don't really feel comfortable in my rust repair skills... plus I don't really like the idea of a welded together chassis (yes, I know, it's welded together already....) ...I dunno, call it weld - prejudice or something... I could see trying to do the rust repair on the chassis after gutting it, I don't know yet, I am attached to the car... but I am definately still going to look for a clean chassis on which to start a build.... Thats one of those things that I feel is best done on a clean chassis (unless of course you are already doing a RHD swap too 
)
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03-01-06, 11:09 AM
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Originally Posted by iceblue
The thing is on a uni body chassie evrything is easaly replaceable. So if you have a bad part you cut it out and put a new one in.
On older cars with real frames this is harder as you must weld new pieces of a frame together.
Your floor pans can simply be cutout if needed to suit, weld new metal in or cut the whol thing out along the welds. The other rust I showd how to take care of in my blog.
This thread reminds me of how much I HATE RUST. Having an aluminium daily driver is nice...
03-01-06, 11:38 AM
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Originally Posted by Aaron Cake
This thread reminds me of how much I HATE RUST. Having an aluminium daily driver is nice...
...maybe its time to look at Delorean's.... hooray for stainless steel...
...I think I'm safer off just buying a clean(er) chassis... I can't weld yet, and I don't have the money to sink into lots of bodywork right now... Plus, if I do crash (*knocks on wood*) I would like the chassis to behave like it was engineered to....
03-01-06, 11:46 AM
#29
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Originally Posted by Aaron Cake
That's not entirely true...Improperly replacing a unibody panel can cause unpredictable behaviour in the event of a collision. Most unibodies are engineered with strength and weaknesses in certain areas an the FC is no differet....Of course, huge rust holes and missing floors are also a hazard so it's 6 of one half a dozen of the other. Also welding sheet metal can be a real pain if you don't know what you're doing. I've seen some serious hacks that looked GREAT on the outside but were disgusting and dangerous under the surface. With any major rust repair an experienced body person is a must have consultant....Of course wheel wells are generally no big deal.
You got to do it how the factory did it. Everything is replaceable the aprons and struts and pans all come out with spot welds and you can get the replacement or cut them from another car. Weld them back in same way. You defiantly don’t want to go about disrupting the crumple design of things like the aprons.I did not notice any structural compromises from his pics. If the uni body itself is compromised it would be the time to look for a new car. That’s the point you would need a laser frame machine to fix the car right, not worth the money.
Originally Posted by Aaron Cake
Actually it's a LOT easier since you can pull the body off the frame and most of these older framed vehicles do not have things like crumple zones. And if it's really bad, you can always buy a new frame.
Originally Posted by Aaron Cake
Yep...Just make sure to properly attach the crossmembers and pay attention to mounting points....
This thread reminds me of how much I HATE RUST. Having an aluminium daily driver is nice...
This thread reminds me of how much I HATE RUST. Having an aluminium daily driver is nice...
Last edited by iceblue; 03-01-06 at 11:49 AM.
03-01-06, 01:29 PM
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Originally Posted by autocrash
Isn't the daily driver a Honda Insight? ...I didn't know those were aluminum, must be nice
...maybe its time to look at Delorean's.... hooray for stainless steel...
...I think I'm safer off just buying a clean(er) chassis... I can't weld yet, and I don't have the money to sink into lots of bodywork right now... Plus, if I do crash (*knocks on wood*) I would like the chassis to behave like it was engineered to....
03-01-06, 01:48 PM
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And remember when you go look at a car..take a jack stands, little mirror on a stick, magnet, screwdriver. Put the car up in the air look for rust hardcore, poke at the frame and dont just peck try to make the screwdriver go through the frame, use the mirror to see where you cant, magnet on the fenders to see if there just bondo filled and painted. Hell take up carpet if you have to. I do this everytime I look at a car.
03-01-06, 02:04 PM
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Originally Posted by Aaron Cake
This thread reminds me of how much I HATE RUST. Having an aluminium daily driver is nice...
03-01-06, 02:49 PM
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Without going too off topic, the Insight is the sportscar of hybrids. In many ways it parallels the eary RX-7s in that it is designed for one purpose in a true form-follows-function way. Besides, you can't argue with this:
03-01-06, 02:57 PM
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Originally Posted by Aaron Cake
Without going too off topic, the Insight is the sportscar of hybrids. In many ways it parallels the eary RX-7s in that it is designed for one purpose in a true form-follows-function way. Besides, you can't argue with this:
03-01-06, 03:29 PM
#37
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That picture actually shows an average of 91.6 MPG over a trip of 98.3 miles. Mileage on the left, distance covered on the right. You cannot reset one number without resetting the other so it is impossible to cheat by resetting at the top of a hill and then coasting down.
Here's the trip to Rotary Revolution last year. From London to Indianapolis and back to Detroit on one tank of gas. 81 MPG over 800 miles.
Here's the trip to Rotary Revolution last year. From London to Indianapolis and back to Detroit on one tank of gas. 81 MPG over 800 miles.
03-01-06, 05:09 PM
#38
Originally Posted by SonicRaT
Well, the good news is, soon you'll be able to flintstone that bitch around town!
LOL
That f'n hilarious.
Ok what you guys think for fixing these... sandblast for the most part and then use the POR15 and Rubberized Undercoating?
The BIG hole I am going to have professionally cut and then prolly POR15 and Undercoat it.
Last edited by NeCr0mStR; 03-01-06 at 05:29 PM.
03-01-06, 06:27 PM
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Aside from the hole the other rust looks minor. However hit it with a wire brush on a drill before you decide what to do with it. Sections that look solid can crumble when you start poking at them.
03-01-06, 06:35 PM
#40
thats what happened with the hole... I started poking around at it and pulling off rust chunks next I knew my hand fit in the hole... I was like... YIKES... f'n ohio salty roads...
But also if you look at the placement of some of the rust you notice it was caused by a 4 point lift that crushed the metal.
oh well this summer all will be taken care of
But also if you look at the placement of some of the rust you notice it was caused by a 4 point lift that crushed the metal.
oh well this summer all will be taken care of
03-01-06, 06:46 PM
#43
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FC's are hard to find around me in good condition. My time searching my time towing my gas is all money and comes out to be more then fixing some body rust. It al depends on your area and confidance in your work.
03-01-06, 07:48 PM
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Originally Posted by banzaitoyota
As plentiful as FC's are, it is downright silly and expensive to reconstruct a corroded body. Buy a rust free shell and Xfer the good components
...and yes, iceblue, time and gas are also money, but right now my time is dirt cheap to me, and my actually money is a little low...
(funny how when you're going to school full time and not working, that seems to be the case... ) Thanks for the help guys...
...and who knows, I may use the chassis as a test bed for learning body repair... so it may come back to life.... but right now I want to do some serious building, and that would best start with a rust free chassis... Plus I just found out that our emissions testing in Ontario is no longer a rolling 20 year limit, so that means that 88 and later cars will ALWAYS have to pass emissions tests (every 2 years, I think).... off to search for a clean 86 or 87 I guess...
03-01-06, 07:51 PM
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Originally Posted by banzaitoyota
As plentiful as FC's are, it is downright silly and expensive to reconstruct a corroded body. Buy a rust free shell and Xfer the good components
...and yes, iceblue, time and gas are also money, but right now my time is dirt cheap to me, and my actually money is a little low...
(funny how when you're going to school full time and not working, that seems to be the case... ) Thanks for the help guys...
...and who knows, I may use the chassis as a test bed for learning body repair... so it may come back to life.... but right now I want to do some serious building, and that would best start with a rust free chassis... Plus I just found out that our emissions testing in Ontario is no longer a rolling 20 year limit, so that means that 88 and later cars will ALWAYS have to pass emissions tests (every 2 years, I think).... off to search for a clean 86 or 87 I guess...
BTW, Aaron, thats some damn impressive mileage on that, the dash is kinda neat too... how do you find the digital speedo? (was just looking at the new honda civic with a digital speedo, for the GF, ended up convincing her to get a mazda3 though
)
03-01-06, 08:08 PM
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Yep, no emissions for my '86 (good thing with the bridgeport) nor my GSL-SE (yay for peripheral ports!). I'm very happy. And the Insight doesn't have to pass either so for the forseeable future emissions are not my concern.
As for the digital dash, I love it. Honda is one of the few to do it right. It's easy to read under all lighting conditions and has a hysterysis so that the numbers don't bounce around randmoly.
I'm very happy. And the Insight doesn't have to pass either so for the forseeable future emissions are not my concern.As for the digital dash, I love it. Honda is one of the few to do it right. It's easy to read under all lighting conditions and has a hysterysis so that the numbers don't bounce around randmoly.
03-02-06, 12:22 AM
#48
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Originally Posted by Aaron Cake
That picture actually shows an average of 91.6 MPG over a trip of 98.3 miles. [/img]
US Gallon = 3.78 L, imperial= 4.55 L, which is why canadian cars which use imperial gallons in advertising their mpg always seem so stellar compared to their american counterparts.
Really makes me prefer L/100km.
03-02-06, 08:37 AM
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Originally Posted by scathcart
Just curious if that is US or imperial...
US Gallon = 3.78 L, imperial= 4.55 L, which is why canadian cars which use imperial gallons in advertising their mpg always seem so stellar compared to their american counterparts.
Really makes me prefer L/100km.
US Gallon = 3.78 L, imperial= 4.55 L, which is why canadian cars which use imperial gallons in advertising their mpg always seem so stellar compared to their american counterparts.
Really makes me prefer L/100km.
...I actually don't like L/100km, its the one thing from the metric system I could do without... and the reason is this: significant digits. When you see 25.1 mpg, you know thats how many miles you can go per 1 gallon, but when you see 7.1 L/100km, if you were to work it out to an equivalent km per litre, there is just less accuracy... If they could make it to 3 decimal places (7.133) or something, then I'd love it... but as it is, i hate it... 'cause +/- 0.1 L/100km is a much bigger range than +/- 0.1mpg (mpg to one decimal place is roughly twice as accurate....)
...that being said, fuel efficiency is kinda depressing to talk about when you drive an RX-7
(actually, even the 2.0L Mazda3 guzzles a bit more than I'd like....)
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