Running rough now not starting at all. Need help
The car still has the same symptoms and is not wanting to start. No power at the coils again Would a wire or the relay be the cause of the issue.( it starting sometimes and then not. ) ? I checked the fuse earlier.
^yes (coils use a ground wire and that might be the issue and not a wire powered by a fuse).
You find the relay associated w/the coils. It only has so many wires to it. Disconnect the wires to it and see which wire has voltage w/key to on. if this wire has voltage w/key to on sometimes but sometimes not then that is your problem. If it always has voltage w/key to on then it is not your problem. If it always has voltage w/key to on then your problem is the ground wire to the relay coil or the wire which is relayed voltage from the wire at the relay which always has voltage w/key to on and takes this voltage and relays it to the coil.
If the wires to the pertinent relay were disconnected and w/key to on you found some of those wires had no voltage then chances are one of them is the ground (one wire should run to the coils thus this is obviously not a ground wire). W/key to off you take the meter set to continuity and place one lead to one of these wires and the other meter lead to the negative terminal of the battery and if the meter rings out then that is a ground wire. Replace this wire w/another ground wire running from the negative battery terminal (ground) and use it for the relay and see if this helps.
You find the relay associated w/the coils. It only has so many wires to it. Disconnect the wires to it and see which wire has voltage w/key to on. if this wire has voltage w/key to on sometimes but sometimes not then that is your problem. If it always has voltage w/key to on then it is not your problem. If it always has voltage w/key to on then your problem is the ground wire to the relay coil or the wire which is relayed voltage from the wire at the relay which always has voltage w/key to on and takes this voltage and relays it to the coil.
If the wires to the pertinent relay were disconnected and w/key to on you found some of those wires had no voltage then chances are one of them is the ground (one wire should run to the coils thus this is obviously not a ground wire). W/key to off you take the meter set to continuity and place one lead to one of these wires and the other meter lead to the negative terminal of the battery and if the meter rings out then that is a ground wire. Replace this wire w/another ground wire running from the negative battery terminal (ground) and use it for the relay and see if this helps.
Last edited by satch; Nov 4, 2016 at 01:50 PM.
Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 29,798
Likes: 128
From: London, Ontario, Canada
As mentioned above, you'll need to find the relay supplying power the coils and verify all the connections are solid, corrosion free. Replace the suspect relay. Check the Haltech relays and fuse panel for the same. Intermittent fuses can happen, as well as poor connections. Especially with items like that left in the engine bay.
These are the type of issues you will be chasing with an installation like that. They are annoying when they prevent the car from starting. But when the ignition or fuel cuts out at high RPM under boost, then you'll be rebuilding the engine.
Troubleshooting as is can be a useful exercise to understand the issue but the fix is to rewire it all.
These are the type of issues you will be chasing with an installation like that. They are annoying when they prevent the car from starting. But when the ignition or fuel cuts out at high RPM under boost, then you'll be rebuilding the engine.
Troubleshooting as is can be a useful exercise to understand the issue but the fix is to rewire it all.
Here's the latest guys. Got a new relay and then the fuse running to the relay blew. Rechecked the ground by running it to the battery. Ground is good. The relay is still not clicking though. So the four wires to the relay are
Yellow=constant power ;working
Black = ground:working
Red= switch power for the Haltech ; not working
Black bundled = coils;not working
Traced the red to the interior window switch
Tried to roll down the window. Won't go down. So would this the issue ? I remember years before if I hit the automatic window switch accidentally off the car would died out. If so where should the +12 volts be run to test this theory
Yellow=constant power ;working
Black = ground:working
Red= switch power for the Haltech ; not working
Black bundled = coils;not working
Traced the red to the interior window switch
Tried to roll down the window. Won't go down. So would this the issue ? I remember years before if I hit the automatic window switch accidentally off the car would died out. If so where should the +12 volts be run to test this theory
Here's the latest guys. Got a new relay and then the fuse running to the relay blew. Rechecked the ground by running it to the battery. Ground is good. The relay is still not clicking though. So the four wires to the relay are
Yellow=constant power ;working
Black = ground:working
Red= switch power for the Haltech ; not working
Black bundled = coils;not working
Traced the red to the interior window switch
Tried to roll down the window. Won't go down. So would this the issue ? I remember years before if I hit the automatic window switch accidentally off the car would died out. If so where should the +12 volts be run to test this theory
Yellow=constant power ;working
Black = ground:working
Red= switch power for the Haltech ; not working
Black bundled = coils;not working
Traced the red to the interior window switch
Tried to roll down the window. Won't go down. So would this the issue ? I remember years before if I hit the automatic window switch accidentally off the car would died out. If so where should the +12 volts be run to test this theory
And the switched power wire could run to the B/W wire found in the Green check connector near the lead coil.
Last edited by satch; Nov 10, 2016 at 06:13 PM.