hey hey for once could there be an answer other than...... Ight blown out H20 thermosesor will make me foul out my plugs?? If so at idle car runs like **** , BUT won't shut off so plugs or waterthermo?? Its become a problem because it happens over and over again. Is going with a new fast idle control valve better than just the sensor itself???

 

what would a waterthermosensor have to do with plugs? nothing. what do you mean the car runs like **** but wont shut off? if your car runs like **** yuou probly need to adjust your TPS and idle

 

I'm having a hard time understanding your question...

A failed water thermo sensor (the engine coolant temp sensor on the back of the water pump housing) will cause the car to run rich. That can foul out plugs fairly easily.

But this is a random guess because I don't know what you are asking. Car not shutting off? Running poorly? What about the fast idle solenoid (which could mean BAC or ASV)?

 

this has nothing to do with cold start or could cold start **** up the fast idle solonoid? essentially the cold start started ******* up at the same time my car started to kinda run like ***.....it sputters....

 

yeh it runs like **** way to rich I can have flames come out the back if I rev it up to high. It has no power and its not the TPS. It can still adjust except its missing like crazy. ITs the thermosensor connected to the fast idle control valve on the throttle body for locations incase "some" peeps dodn't know. It happens on cold starts sometimes but now antother set of plugs has fallen victom. Could it be the sensor or the control valve?

 

... could be the infamous fuel mixture threostat has tuned to "rich"

 

HUH?!?!?!?!?

 

The ASV is the primary device responsible for the 3K cold start. The BAC also opens to a degree.

If the ASV is leaking or stuck, it can cause the car to run poorly.

How do you know it's not the TPS?

Black smoke out of the exhuast when it misses? Have you checked for ignition problems like worn wires, an arcing coil, etc.?


There's no thermosensor on the ASV or BAC. There is a thermal switch on the bottom drivers side of the radiator that activates to tell the ECU to do the 3K startup.

Proceedures for checking the sensor are in the factory service manual. If the sensor checks out, look for ignition issues as I mentioned. You can cap off the input to both the BAC and the ASV as a troubleshooting measure.

 

That only effects idle. It's not a rheostat, it's a variable resistor. A rheostat is also a variable resistor, but it is one designed to control large currents and is generally large and wire wound on a ceramic body. We don't have those.

 

so back to what we do have...im going to ground my car out and see whats going on because MY personal hesitation happends all throughout after 3800 so i mean its not JSUT as they kick in...unless 3800 hesitation also includes 3800 and up?

 

You have a blown engine. Call the wrecking yard and pay them fifty bucks to take it off your hands.

 

Can I block off the ASV??

 

My car did the exact samr thing when my water temp sender was broken. It is grren and located nrext to the t-stat right behind the ALT. I would check that first.