Running rich
07-10-11, 02:06 PM
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Running rich
I have an 87 FC NA and I just recently got it running again after my thermosensor wiring got messed up causing it to stall in seconds from a cold start. Now that I have that taken care of that it's running so rich that my exhaust is a constant, thin blue fog that chokes me. I'm not too sure how the timing works on the RX7 and I'm wondering if the ECU is still using default values (like how some car ECU's store operating data to adjust certain variables) or if there is another problem.
I was told to check the voltage on pin 2I which should be 1-3v to make sure the fuel pump was set for a cold start. Now that I fixed the wire I got spiking to 10v and then settling back to about 2.2v which it repeated in a cycle. I tried to run it as long as I could after I got it to stop stalling, I wanted to go through the Chiltons manual's guide to adjust the idle after the engine is warm but I stopped to post this first because voltage spikes concern me.
Thanks a lot.
I was told to check the voltage on pin 2I which should be 1-3v to make sure the fuel pump was set for a cold start. Now that I fixed the wire I got spiking to 10v and then settling back to about 2.2v which it repeated in a cycle. I tried to run it as long as I could after I got it to stop stalling, I wanted to go through the Chiltons manual's guide to adjust the idle after the engine is warm but I stopped to post this first because voltage spikes concern me.
Thanks a lot.
07-10-11, 03:09 PM
#2
If it's spiking then the connection/wiring is not good enough! Pin 2I is an "INPUT" signal so this ECU pin reads what is being "sent" to it and not the other way. Pin 2C is a ground wire and it provides a ground signal for the Black wire. Check pin 2C w/key to on and it should read very close to 0 volts. If it does then pin ***** the Black wire that comes out of the Thermosnsor wiring plug and see if you get the same 0 volt reading w/key to on.
If need be you could also remove the Thermosensor and stick it in cold water and take the ohm reading and see if it compares to the value stated in the FSM. You could also heat the water to specified temps and see if its ohm value is comparable to the readings in the FSM.
If need be you could also remove the Thermosensor and stick it in cold water and take the ohm reading and see if it compares to the value stated in the FSM. You could also heat the water to specified temps and see if its ohm value is comparable to the readings in the FSM.
07-11-11, 04:53 AM
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If it's spiking then the connection/wiring is not good enough! Pin 2I is an "INPUT" signal so this ECU pin reads what is being "sent" to it and not the other way. Pin 2C is a ground wire and it provides a ground signal for the Black wire. Check pin 2C w/key to on and it should read very close to 0 volts. If it does then pin ***** the Black wire that comes out of the Thermosnsor wiring plug and see if you get the same 0 volt reading w/key to on.
If need be you could also remove the Thermosensor and stick it in cold water and take the ohm reading and see if it compares to the value stated in the FSM. You could also heat the water to specified temps and see if its ohm value is comparable to the readings in the FSM.
If need be you could also remove the Thermosensor and stick it in cold water and take the ohm reading and see if it compares to the value stated in the FSM. You could also heat the water to specified temps and see if its ohm value is comparable to the readings in the FSM.
I wanted to say "thanks" everyone for helping get my car sorted! It now runs fine with no power loss, stalling or clouds of choking exhaust. I had an off the topic question quickly, 7's get a bad rap for being gas guzzlers (some claim they get worse than V8's) but mine has always gotten 30MPG+ on the highway if I keep my foot out of it. Is that typical of most 7's or did I just get lucky?
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