Picked Up A Vert 1990 Fc With Some Problems But Tell Me What U Think
07-11-11, 02:09 AM
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Picked Up A Vert 1990 Fc With Some Problems But Tell Me What U Think
first off im a nissan 240 guy never played with a rx7 or rotary...i dont know ANYTHING ABOUT THEM
picked up a 1990 vert clen title
13b na
coilovers (idk what kind)
gp wide body with sti front fenders molded in
cream white paint
knockoff bucket seat
exhaust strait piped
rims...
clean interior
PROBLEMS
cold start blows white smoke...heats up doesnt blow anything (SLIM TO NOTHING)
idle is off goes up n down like it has a cam lol but idk ANYTING about rx7 motors
also needs a throughout berring or clutch cuz i put in gear and let clutch out goes nowhere
can anyone tell me what this can be? coolent seals? apex seals? how much can i get a 13bt motor for?
ONLY PAID 900$ FOR IT!
check the pix good deal?
whats the shell worth as is?
picked up a 1990 vert clen title
13b na
coilovers (idk what kind)
gp wide body with sti front fenders molded in
cream white paint
knockoff bucket seat
exhaust strait piped
rims...
clean interior
PROBLEMS
cold start blows white smoke...heats up doesnt blow anything (SLIM TO NOTHING)
idle is off goes up n down like it has a cam lol but idk ANYTING about rx7 motors
also needs a throughout berring or clutch cuz i put in gear and let clutch out goes nowhere
can anyone tell me what this can be? coolent seals? apex seals? how much can i get a 13bt motor for?
ONLY PAID 900$ FOR IT!
check the pix good deal?
whats the shell worth as is?
Last edited by 95240Sx; 07-11-11 at 02:13 AM.
07-11-11, 02:44 AM
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13b n/a is like 500 bucks maybe even less if you buy the parts separately and start playing legos.
the white smoke could be the motor flooding or the coolant seals are going out. maybe thats why it was 900 bucks but good come up
check if there are bubbles in the coolant filler neck. if there is time to rebuild but it might last you a couple thousand miles. as long as you dont drive with a white cloud following you then your good.
the humping idle could be a vac leak. try adjusting the idle by turning that **** on top of the tb until it reaches 750. then turn the pressure sensor, right next to the left shock mount if your facing the engine bay, to the highest then re adjust the **** on top of the tb.
have fun with your fc! remember to warm her up before playing with her
the white smoke could be the motor flooding or the coolant seals are going out. maybe thats why it was 900 bucks but good come up
check if there are bubbles in the coolant filler neck. if there is time to rebuild but it might last you a couple thousand miles. as long as you dont drive with a white cloud following you then your good.
the humping idle could be a vac leak. try adjusting the idle by turning that **** on top of the tb until it reaches 750. then turn the pressure sensor, right next to the left shock mount if your facing the engine bay, to the highest then re adjust the **** on top of the tb.
have fun with your fc! remember to warm her up before playing with her
Last edited by NatAsRex7; 07-11-11 at 02:49 AM.
07-11-11, 02:49 AM
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13b n/a is like 500 bucks maybe even less if you buy the parts separately and start playing legos.
the white smoke could be the motor flooding or the coolant seals are going out. maybe thats why it was 900 bucks but good come up
check if there are bubbles in the coolant filler neck. if there is time to rebuild but it might last you a couple thousand miles. as long as you dont drive with a white cloud following you then your good.
the humping idle could be a vac leak. try adjusting the idle by turning that **** on top of the tb until it reaches 750. then turn the pressure sensor, right next to the left shock mount if your facing the engine bay, to the highest then re adjust the **** on top of the tb.
the white smoke could be the motor flooding or the coolant seals are going out. maybe thats why it was 900 bucks but good come up
check if there are bubbles in the coolant filler neck. if there is time to rebuild but it might last you a couple thousand miles. as long as you dont drive with a white cloud following you then your good.
the humping idle could be a vac leak. try adjusting the idle by turning that **** on top of the tb until it reaches 750. then turn the pressure sensor, right next to the left shock mount if your facing the engine bay, to the highest then re adjust the **** on top of the tb.
07-11-11, 02:51 AM
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im not completely ignorate with it comes to cars lol i can rebuild ka motors sr motors n stuff like that ll day long... iver never done a rotary so im lost and dont know the slightest thing
07-11-11, 02:54 AM
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ehh every kid has to start somewhere. the ex owner of my fc drove the car until coolant spat out of the engine bay. drove it home while it was over heating. it miraculously survived the heat and is in ok condition now.
im not really sure the exact temperature but im guessing as long as it doesnt go above half then your good. the first thing i would invest in any fc is a after market radiator. these engines are like boiling cup of noodle soups fresh from the microwave. if you let the noodles get soggy it might never get firm? wtf.
im not really sure the exact temperature but im guessing as long as it doesnt go above half then your good. the first thing i would invest in any fc is a after market radiator. these engines are like boiling cup of noodle soups fresh from the microwave. if you let the noodles get soggy it might never get firm? wtf.
07-11-11, 03:09 AM
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07-11-11, 03:09 AM
#8
i remember someone on my facebook had this car, maybe it was the kid you got it from or you ? i forget lol
for $900 though, that is a great looking car. bodykit and rims is easily half that. Just needs some wider wheels/lower offset, or some spacers for now since it has wide body.
If it is coolant seal, you will probably be loosing coolant from time to time, as well as seeing bubbles as suggested above.. There is videos on youtube that shows this.
There is a temporary fix trick you could probably try if that is the case.. You gotta flush the coolant really good, then use some engine seal/cooper block seal .. I forget the brand, but there is a recommended brand to use.. search the forum for block seal or something.. I read it helped some people get more life out of their until it actually failed completely.
for $900 though, that is a great looking car. bodykit and rims is easily half that. Just needs some wider wheels/lower offset, or some spacers for now since it has wide body.
If it is coolant seal, you will probably be loosing coolant from time to time, as well as seeing bubbles as suggested above.. There is videos on youtube that shows this.
There is a temporary fix trick you could probably try if that is the case.. You gotta flush the coolant really good, then use some engine seal/cooper block seal .. I forget the brand, but there is a recommended brand to use.. search the forum for block seal or something.. I read it helped some people get more life out of their until it actually failed completely.
07-11-11, 03:16 AM
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i remember someone on my facebook had this car, maybe it was the kid you got it from or you ? i forget lol
for $900 though, that is a great looking car. bodykit and rims is easily half that. Just needs some wider wheels/lower offset, or some spacers for now since it has wide body.
If it is coolant seal, you will probably be loosing coolant from time to time, as well as seeing bubbles as suggested above.. There is videos on youtube that shows this.
There is a temporary fix trick you could probably try if that is the case.. You gotta flush the coolant really good, then use some engine seal/cooper block seal .. I forget the brand, but there is a recommended brand to use.. search the forum for block seal or something.. I read it helped some people get more life out of their until it actually failed completely.
for $900 though, that is a great looking car. bodykit and rims is easily half that. Just needs some wider wheels/lower offset, or some spacers for now since it has wide body.
If it is coolant seal, you will probably be loosing coolant from time to time, as well as seeing bubbles as suggested above.. There is videos on youtube that shows this.
There is a temporary fix trick you could probably try if that is the case.. You gotta flush the coolant really good, then use some engine seal/cooper block seal .. I forget the brand, but there is a recommended brand to use.. search the forum for block seal or something.. I read it helped some people get more life out of their until it actually failed completely.
he sold it to a kid he fucked it up... i bolught it from him.... yea i know ima get wheels evenntually but im goin ka-t on my s14 and i just dumped a g on wheels on my s14 so.... cash a lil short hah
soon tho im not trippin its gona b project fun rx7
but yea im just gettin ideas what it could b cuz i wana get it to drive without smokin... or blowing up lol
07-11-11, 03:19 AM
#10
It's an S5 - if the temp gauge goes over half at all it's over heating [someone on here the other day said that the S5 gauge has only 3 stages: warmup, normal, overheating]
If the coolant seals are really going bad you'll get higher temps [sorry only know the gauge] and water getting pushed out of the overflow.
If that's the case at least one of the 3 plates will have to be replaced when rebuilding and the others should be checked for coolant channel thickness [the inner seal's coolant channel side wall is the one that breaks]
Coolant seals are ~$150-200, a good condition plate is probably $25-50.
Did you have a friend check to see if the clutch slave cylinder was pushing the fork? Hydraulics are kind of a pain in the butt.. If it's not moving the fork, try rebleeding them, if that doesn't work just replace both cylinders and the softline [unless it's braided SS or pretty new looking] - www.mazdatrix.com has ALL of the clutch hydraulics for about $110 [I even replaced the hard line on mine to be super sure]
Hmm... General rotary knowledge.. You should never rev it past 3K [or at least 3600] when it's cold. You should rev the engine up regularly [by that I mean REDLINE it at least every 2-4 times you drive it - you can also redline it as much as you wish and the engine if the coolant seals aren't failing, will thank you]
It's an S5 [89-91] so it's difficult to remove emissions equipment [aside from the cat] - specifically do not remove the air pump [it will stop opening the 5th and 6th intake ports if you do]
You probably shouldn't run a straight pipe exhaust... Police don't tend to like it, and it's probably bad for your hearing too ^_- If you want a nice, good looking, well performing exhaust, IMO Racing Beat [www.racingbeat.com] is really the way to go. Super durable, great sound, big performance boost over stock..
If you want to do a turbo swap you'll probably want to get a full drivetrain [the NA transmissions are quite a bit less durable, but if you're not boosting it like mad it will probably hold up] Engine, transmission, driveshaft, diff, halfshafts.. Will all bolt right up [well, the engine will need just a tiny bit of wiring help] you'll also need turbo ECU [engine computer], boost sensor, and throttle cable.
Yea, $900 sounds like a better deal than I got on my vert. ^_^'.. [$1400 with throughly bad coolant seals]
If the coolant seals are really going bad you'll get higher temps [sorry only know the gauge] and water getting pushed out of the overflow.
If that's the case at least one of the 3 plates will have to be replaced when rebuilding and the others should be checked for coolant channel thickness [the inner seal's coolant channel side wall is the one that breaks]
Coolant seals are ~$150-200, a good condition plate is probably $25-50.
Did you have a friend check to see if the clutch slave cylinder was pushing the fork? Hydraulics are kind of a pain in the butt.. If it's not moving the fork, try rebleeding them, if that doesn't work just replace both cylinders and the softline [unless it's braided SS or pretty new looking] - www.mazdatrix.com has ALL of the clutch hydraulics for about $110 [I even replaced the hard line on mine to be super sure]
Hmm... General rotary knowledge.. You should never rev it past 3K [or at least 3600] when it's cold. You should rev the engine up regularly [by that I mean REDLINE it at least every 2-4 times you drive it - you can also redline it as much as you wish and the engine if the coolant seals aren't failing, will thank you]
It's an S5 [89-91] so it's difficult to remove emissions equipment [aside from the cat] - specifically do not remove the air pump [it will stop opening the 5th and 6th intake ports if you do]
You probably shouldn't run a straight pipe exhaust... Police don't tend to like it, and it's probably bad for your hearing too ^_- If you want a nice, good looking, well performing exhaust, IMO Racing Beat [www.racingbeat.com] is really the way to go. Super durable, great sound, big performance boost over stock..
If you want to do a turbo swap you'll probably want to get a full drivetrain [the NA transmissions are quite a bit less durable, but if you're not boosting it like mad it will probably hold up] Engine, transmission, driveshaft, diff, halfshafts.. Will all bolt right up [well, the engine will need just a tiny bit of wiring help] you'll also need turbo ECU [engine computer], boost sensor, and throttle cable.
Yea, $900 sounds like a better deal than I got on my vert. ^_^'.. [$1400 with throughly bad coolant seals]
07-11-11, 03:27 AM
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It's an S5 - if the temp gauge goes over half at all it's over heating [someone on here the other day said that the S5 gauge has only 3 stages: warmup, normal, overheating]
If the coolant seals are really going bad you'll get higher temps [sorry only know the gauge] and water getting pushed out of the overflow.
If that's the case at least one of the 3 plates will have to be replaced when rebuilding and the others should be checked for coolant channel thickness [the inner seal's coolant channel side wall is the one that breaks]
Coolant seals are ~$150-200, a good condition plate is probably $25-50.
Did you have a friend check to see if the clutch slave cylinder was pushing the fork? Hydraulics are kind of a pain in the butt.. If it's not moving the fork, try rebleeding them, if that doesn't work just replace both cylinders and the softline [unless it's braided SS or pretty new looking] - www.mazdatrix.com has ALL of the clutch hydraulics for about $110 [I even replaced the hard line on mine to be super sure]
Hmm... General rotary knowledge.. You should never rev it past 3K [or at least 3600] when it's cold. You should rev the engine up regularly [by that I mean REDLINE it at least every 2-4 times you drive it - you can also redline it as much as you wish and the engine if the coolant seals aren't failing, will thank you]
It's an S5 [89-91] so it's difficult to remove emissions equipment [aside from the cat] - specifically do not remove the air pump [it will stop opening the 5th and 6th intake ports if you do]
You probably shouldn't run a straight pipe exhaust... Police don't tend to like it, and it's probably bad for your hearing too ^_- If you want a nice, good looking, well performing exhaust, IMO Racing Beat [www.racingbeat.com] is really the way to go. Super durable, great sound, big performance boost over stock..
If you want to do a turbo swap you'll probably want to get a full drivetrain [the NA transmissions are quite a bit less durable, but if you're not boosting it like mad it will probably hold up] Engine, transmission, driveshaft, diff, halfshafts.. Will all bolt right up [well, the engine will need just a tiny bit of wiring help] you'll also need turbo ECU [engine computer], boost sensor, and throttle cable.
Yea, $900 sounds like a better deal than I got on my vert. ^_^'.. [$1400 with throughly bad coolant seals]
If the coolant seals are really going bad you'll get higher temps [sorry only know the gauge] and water getting pushed out of the overflow.
If that's the case at least one of the 3 plates will have to be replaced when rebuilding and the others should be checked for coolant channel thickness [the inner seal's coolant channel side wall is the one that breaks]
Coolant seals are ~$150-200, a good condition plate is probably $25-50.
Did you have a friend check to see if the clutch slave cylinder was pushing the fork? Hydraulics are kind of a pain in the butt.. If it's not moving the fork, try rebleeding them, if that doesn't work just replace both cylinders and the softline [unless it's braided SS or pretty new looking] - www.mazdatrix.com has ALL of the clutch hydraulics for about $110 [I even replaced the hard line on mine to be super sure]
Hmm... General rotary knowledge.. You should never rev it past 3K [or at least 3600] when it's cold. You should rev the engine up regularly [by that I mean REDLINE it at least every 2-4 times you drive it - you can also redline it as much as you wish and the engine if the coolant seals aren't failing, will thank you]
It's an S5 [89-91] so it's difficult to remove emissions equipment [aside from the cat] - specifically do not remove the air pump [it will stop opening the 5th and 6th intake ports if you do]
You probably shouldn't run a straight pipe exhaust... Police don't tend to like it, and it's probably bad for your hearing too ^_- If you want a nice, good looking, well performing exhaust, IMO Racing Beat [www.racingbeat.com] is really the way to go. Super durable, great sound, big performance boost over stock..
If you want to do a turbo swap you'll probably want to get a full drivetrain [the NA transmissions are quite a bit less durable, but if you're not boosting it like mad it will probably hold up] Engine, transmission, driveshaft, diff, halfshafts.. Will all bolt right up [well, the engine will need just a tiny bit of wiring help] you'll also need turbo ECU [engine computer], boost sensor, and throttle cable.
Yea, $900 sounds like a better deal than I got on my vert. ^_^'.. [$1400 with throughly bad coolant seals]
can anybbody get me a exact temp cuz i have a tower temp gauge
like whats hot warm over heting ..normal?
07-11-11, 03:31 AM
#12
Originally Posted by Clokker
I have found that at speed I need no fannage and temps stabilize in the 180-190° range (OEM Mazda thermostat).
Temps in traffic/idling rise as airflow decreases and lower RPM slows the waterpump till the efan kicks in at 195°.
Temps in traffic/idling rise as airflow decreases and lower RPM slows the waterpump till the efan kicks in at 195°.
Well, you can't really over rev it unless you're hitting the rev limiter [it cuts ALL fuel to the rear rotor], when I was driving my S5 vert around after the rebuild and breakin, I shifted at 8500RPM when I wound it up B) Good times.
07-11-11, 03:34 AM
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yea well i mean when he was warming up..... the second i went over there he started it up .... revvvved the **** out of it i looked at him like wtf bro your retarded lol revving cold start wow.... common sense
07-11-11, 03:37 AM
#14
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damn you americans and your cheap cars. you bought a running convertible fc with widebody kit for 900. woulda been like 8 or 9 k in nz. nice score. i paid 3k for my rolling body gt limited
07-11-11, 03:49 AM
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07-11-11, 03:57 AM
#16
NP ^_^
Ahhh there we go - I was being stupid for a sec. Yea cold reving is bad.. For any car, esp these. ["It's unthinkable" That's my excuse XD] - btw technical reason for it being worse that I always keep in mind: you have alternating aluminum and steel for the main pieces of the engine, so it can't expand equally.
Ben.farnath>> Well technically a body kit lowers the value of an RX-7 unless it's literally show car quality..
[and here's where I mention that I hate body kits/slamming - I think Mazda's designers are far better than some aftermarket designer trying to make it look all crazy ^_-]
Ahhh there we go - I was being stupid for a sec. Yea cold reving is bad.. For any car, esp these. ["It's unthinkable" That's my excuse XD] - btw technical reason for it being worse that I always keep in mind: you have alternating aluminum and steel for the main pieces of the engine, so it can't expand equally.
Ben.farnath>> Well technically a body kit lowers the value of an RX-7 unless it's literally show car quality..
[and here's where I mention that I hate body kits/slamming - I think Mazda's designers are far better than some aftermarket designer trying to make it look all crazy ^_-]
07-11-11, 04:05 AM
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NP ^_^
Ahhh there we go - I was being stupid for a sec. Yea cold reving is bad.. For any car, esp these. ["It's unthinkable" That's my excuse XD] - btw technical reason for it being worse that I always keep in mind: you have alternating aluminum and steel for the main pieces of the engine, so it can't expand equally.
Ben.farnath>> Well technically a body kit lowers the value of an RX-7 unless it's literally show car quality..
[and here's where I mention that I hate body kits/slamming - I think Mazda's designers are far better than some aftermarket designer trying to make it look all crazy ^_-]
Ahhh there we go - I was being stupid for a sec. Yea cold reving is bad.. For any car, esp these. ["It's unthinkable" That's my excuse XD] - btw technical reason for it being worse that I always keep in mind: you have alternating aluminum and steel for the main pieces of the engine, so it can't expand equally.
Ben.farnath>> Well technically a body kit lowers the value of an RX-7 unless it's literally show car quality..
[and here's where I mention that I hate body kits/slamming - I think Mazda's designers are far better than some aftermarket designer trying to make it look all crazy ^_-]
lol
07-11-11, 04:20 AM
#18
Rotary Enthusiast
NP ^_^
Ben.farnath>> Well technically a body kit lowers the value of an RX-7 unless it's literally show car quality..
[and here's where I mention that I hate body kits/slamming - I think Mazda's designers are far better than some aftermarket designer trying to make it look all crazy ^_-]
Ben.farnath>> Well technically a body kit lowers the value of an RX-7 unless it's literally show car quality..
[and here's where I mention that I hate body kits/slamming - I think Mazda's designers are far better than some aftermarket designer trying to make it look all crazy ^_-]
07-11-11, 04:25 AM
#19
cool. yeah im a former 240 owner myself..
http://a2.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphot..._6959215_n.jpg
RX7s are behind in aftermarket support compared to 240s. You just wont see that parts development /discoveries that are still striving in the 240 community. but are rewarded with not having that theft interest rate like 240s. And an FC like yours with the kit, once it has some better wheels on it, can stand out pretty big from the 240s.
http://a2.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphot..._6959215_n.jpg
RX7s are behind in aftermarket support compared to 240s. You just wont see that parts development /discoveries that are still striving in the 240 community. but are rewarded with not having that theft interest rate like 240s. And an FC like yours with the kit, once it has some better wheels on it, can stand out pretty big from the 240s.
07-11-11, 07:10 AM
#20
i fully agree on the bodykit. its not my preference. my fc has finishline rear bumper lower, standard sideskirt copies and a front lower lip and its staying all s4 not a s4/5 mix up (i even sold my series 5 tail lights that came with the car to buy series 4) . lowered but not rediculously. factory styling for me. what i meant was he bought a whole car for 9 hundy, here in nz the kit alone woulda been more than 9 hundy.
Wow.. Yea, every time Bumpstop mentions pricing down there it sounds awful.. >_<
Body kits... Usually just look bad to me, and I don't like things that permanently modify the body [It pained me to do it just for the S5 tails..] I think the only appearance things sorely missing from an S4 are the S5 tails, and the S5 nosecone changes.
Slamming... Just isn't practical anywhere I've driven, which is why I can't understand how anyone else can do it [our roads are pretty good for the most part, but there are far too many driveways that change angle too much - once I even bottomed out on *stock springs*!]. Other than that, it just looks like it's broken [makes me think of my uncle's old towncar with blown suspension, lol...]
I try not to complain much, because at least it's still rotary. XD
Btw, your 240 looks pretty clean.. Does it still need paint on the body kit? Might be the pict but it doesn't look shiny like the rest. [It looks like you actually take care of your car - most 240s around my area are either hideous or automatic.. lol]
07-11-11, 01:01 PM
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i remember someone on my facebook had this car, maybe it was the kid you got it from or you ? i forget lol
for $900 though, that is a great looking car. bodykit and rims is easily half that. Just needs some wider wheels/lower offset, or some spacers for now since it has wide body.
If it is coolant seal, you will probably be loosing coolant from time to time, as well as seeing bubbles as suggested above.. There is videos on youtube that shows this.
There is a temporary fix trick you could probably try if that is the case.. You gotta flush the coolant really good, then use some engine seal/cooper block seal .. I forget the brand, but there is a recommended brand to use.. search the forum for block seal or something.. I read it helped some people get more life out of their until it actually failed completely.
for $900 though, that is a great looking car. bodykit and rims is easily half that. Just needs some wider wheels/lower offset, or some spacers for now since it has wide body.
If it is coolant seal, you will probably be loosing coolant from time to time, as well as seeing bubbles as suggested above.. There is videos on youtube that shows this.
There is a temporary fix trick you could probably try if that is the case.. You gotta flush the coolant really good, then use some engine seal/cooper block seal .. I forget the brand, but there is a recommended brand to use.. search the forum for block seal or something.. I read it helped some people get more life out of their until it actually failed completely.
95240sx-if u need a rb exhaust under 2k miles i got one for sale pm me
lucky7 in duarte or rotary power in gardena uhhh theres a lot more i think.
Last edited by NatAsRex7; 07-11-11 at 01:06 PM.
07-11-11, 02:16 PM
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Thx guys yea I love 240s I got 2 and yea the black one needs paint but I'm not trippin so much I have another one... Blue one torment is insane here's some pics for ya
18x9.75 20 offset with 25 mil Spacers sits me at -5 offset in the rear
18x9.75 20 offset with 25 mil Spacers sits me at -5 offset in the rear
07-11-11, 02:23 PM
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cool. yeah im a former 240 owner myself..
http://a2.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphot..._6959215_n.jpg
RX7s are behind in aftermarket support compared to 240s. You just wont see that parts development /discoveries that are still striving in the 240 community. but are rewarded with not having that theft interest rate like 240s. And an FC like yours with the kit, once it has some better wheels on it, can stand out pretty big from the 240s.
http://a2.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphot..._6959215_n.jpg
RX7s are behind in aftermarket support compared to 240s. You just wont see that parts development /discoveries that are still striving in the 240 community. but are rewarded with not having that theft interest rate like 240s. And an FC like yours with the kit, once it has some better wheels on it, can stand out pretty big from the 240s.
Clean s13 not a fan of hatches I love coupes lol but yours I actually like ... I've always been into the s14
07-11-11, 02:29 PM
#25
check it http://www.rotaryresurrection.com/ro...oolantfix.html
search the forum for irontite, seems like the sweet stuff to use.
http://www.irontite.com/ irontite ceramic, the red one is what i read people have used.
search the forum for irontite, seems like the sweet stuff to use.
http://www.irontite.com/ irontite ceramic, the red one is what i read people have used.