I swapped out my old corroded battery cables for new ones and now everything works execpt my engine. I took a timing light to my spark plug wires and found that I have no spark. I tested if the coils are getting power and they are. I also ohm tested the coils and crank angle sensor and everything is within factory specs.

What's going on here?

 

may be connections on the cables .to the starter or ground,or battery....also if you are using an induction style timing light ,they are not very good with rotaries..sometimes they just won't read spark..edit..you said the engine doesn't work ..you will have to be more specific..does it roll over?..checked your EGI fuse.?..

 

Fixing the cables have fixed allot of things on the car, my horn, clock, and other lights and buzzers all work now. My starter even spins the engine faster. Yesterday I tried pullstarting the car, I didnt even get a pop out of it. I just smell raw gas. Besides the timing light I also tried grounding the plugs to the dynamic chamber with no results.

 

Check your connection at the starter to the battery. And when i say this i mean the whole wire not just at each point. They are not one whole wire but rather connected in the midle too. YOu might have wiggled it loose when installing new cables. I have heard of this before several times and this was always the prob.

 

Check the fuse block on the shock tower.

 

smell raw fuel?..deflood it.. and check the EGI fuse on the fuse block (as mentioned twice)..you most likely tried starting it and just kept cranking..so you flooded it..

 

Checking the fuse box, pulling the fuses to check for corrosion. All of them came out except one, the black one in the center of the main fuse panel. It shattered while I was trying to remove it and the bottom half is still stuck to the fuse panel. I'm pulling on the copper contacts directly and it still wont come loose.

To make matters worse, when using a test light across the two contacts the light comes on when the igniton is turned on. But no idiot lights and it wont turn over now.

Is this fuse a dealer item?

 

I kinda had the same problem last summer. I spent the whole weekend changing cables and went to start it it would crank but not start (like when you flood it). Charged the battery and started and when the ECU relearned itself it worked fine. Starts real well now, no problems

 

Make sure the Leading coil isnt grounded and the CAS is properly connected. Attempt to find a spark by just pulling the attempting to create a spark while the engine spins.

 

It sounds like you might have killed battery trying to start it too much. Also, fuses are universal. Just take an old one to wal-mart and get the ones that are the same amperage and the same shape, I forget the name.

 

Ok, I feel dumb, the main fuse was bolted in.....duhhh

Anyways, I'm back to where I was before, Brand new fully charged battery, new connectors, new positive and negitive cables, no spark.

Power is getting to the coils but the coils arent giving any spark to the plugs.

Do these connectors have anything to do with my problem?
http://photobucket.com/albums/f89/He...crap010mod.jpg

I had to disconnect them to replace my battery cables (the black one was a real bear to get off) I wonder I distrubing them could be the source of my problem....

 

before you look at anything else, pull the spark plugs out, plug the into the wires and rest them on the fender, crank it to see if you have spark. Verify the plugs are in good shape as well as the plug wires. Are the boots fully "clicking" on the plugs?If you are getting spark, heat up each plug with a propane torch and reinstall while they are hot and try to start it. (you probably floded the motor so spin out the extra fuel too)

If you dont have spark, is it the plugs, test the wires with ohmeter. ALso check the connections at the CAS, the T and L coils. But I have seen a couple cars have shitty connectors at the coils, it looks like it is plugged in, but it isnt, the spade slides out of the clip but still looks okay,wiggle the connector wires while they are unplugged to make sure that they are nice and snug in htere. If you are sure your coils checked out, the CAS checked out and you have power at them, you should find the issue by going through those steps.

 

I tested one plug and wire on my accord and both are in fine working order.
Triple checked all connections.
No results.

 

are you sure the battery was installed correctly??? Easy to get it backwards... the lights and everything but the engine and a few other things would still work.

 

I may be dumb but I'm not stupid.

 

C'mon, nobody can tell me what those connectors are for?