running like ass after TII swap
12-06-07, 03:05 PM
#1
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running like *** after TII swap
I still need some help with this....i'll try to explain it the best i can
i checked the thermoswitch and the connection seems find...i havent had a chance to check the AFM..
when i try to start it normal- it will start for a second then die right out....or it will start but shake and sound like its only running on one rotor then would die
starting it with the pedal to the floor- it will start and i can keep it running if i hold it at 3000 rpm and i can slowly let off and it will idle on its own after a minute or so at 2000rpm but if i leave it for a minute a bit it will stall...when i have it running if i give it gas it will bogg the motor and kill it most of the time
the next day i was trying to start it and i couldn't get it to fire up at all...but it was -7celcius outside so that could have added to that..
it started for a couple seconds a few time but was running ruff like it was only goin off one rotor
the engine has good compression fuel and spark
...theres no exhaust on it though its just a 3" downpipe to nothing....i know that could make it run alittle shitty
could you guys name some stuff off i could check over ...i wanna get this thing running good
heres a video of it running when i put the peddle to the floor to start it ....and i messed with the gas a bit and you can hear it wants to die
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4mGlUB_yH7o
i'm goin to try switching coils and plug wires to see if that might help but can you guys list some stuff off that it could be....if anyones ran into a similiar problem
it has decent vacuum but i never got it idling lower to see but it was still sitting over the 10mhg
i checked the thermoswitch and the connection seems find...i havent had a chance to check the AFM..
when i try to start it normal- it will start for a second then die right out....or it will start but shake and sound like its only running on one rotor then would die
starting it with the pedal to the floor- it will start and i can keep it running if i hold it at 3000 rpm and i can slowly let off and it will idle on its own after a minute or so at 2000rpm but if i leave it for a minute a bit it will stall...when i have it running if i give it gas it will bogg the motor and kill it most of the time
the next day i was trying to start it and i couldn't get it to fire up at all...but it was -7celcius outside so that could have added to that..
it started for a couple seconds a few time but was running ruff like it was only goin off one rotor
the engine has good compression fuel and spark
...theres no exhaust on it though its just a 3" downpipe to nothing....i know that could make it run alittle shitty
could you guys name some stuff off i could check over ...i wanna get this thing running good
heres a video of it running when i put the peddle to the floor to start it ....and i messed with the gas a bit and you can hear it wants to die
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4mGlUB_yH7o
i'm goin to try switching coils and plug wires to see if that might help but can you guys list some stuff off that it could be....if anyones ran into a similiar problem
it has decent vacuum but i never got it idling lower to see but it was still sitting over the 10mhg
Last edited by FC3Sdrift; 12-06-07 at 03:10 PM.
12-06-07, 04:59 PM
#2
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Is that a series five AFM on the end of that cone filter???
Try this. Since the engine seems to start up right away. Try removing the two trail sparkplug wires and starting it again to see if there is anything different.
Try this. Since the engine seems to start up right away. Try removing the two trail sparkplug wires and starting it again to see if there is anything different.
12-06-07, 05:03 PM
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i'll give that a try tomorrow.....what are you thinkin might be up
yeah its a S5 TII n370 afm it came with an apexi air filter on it
lol i don't have my intercooler yet...i have the piping goin directly toturbo so the u bend is where my airfilerter will sit so its stickin out for now
my g/f is gettin me the intercooler for christmas...and my exhaust is commin shortly after
yeah its a S5 TII n370 afm it came with an apexi air filter on it
lol i don't have my intercooler yet...i have the piping goin directly toturbo so the u bend is where my airfilerter will sit so its stickin out for now
my g/f is gettin me the intercooler for christmas...and my exhaust is commin shortly after
12-06-07, 06:44 PM
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***i'll give that a try tomorrow.....what are you thinkin might be up******
Just making sure the lead plugs are firing. Also you might have the trail plugs crossed b/t rotor one and rotor two, but not likely.
The way it starts up right away is a good sign. Do you know the ECU number? N
340? N350? N370?
Just making sure the lead plugs are firing. Also you might have the trail plugs crossed b/t rotor one and rotor two, but not likely.
The way it starts up right away is a good sign. Do you know the ECU number? N
340? N350? N370?
12-07-07, 03:28 PM
#6
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its a jdm N374 tom's racing tuned ecu that came with the engine
i have the L1 and T1 going to the front rotor, L2 and T2 to the rear...
its gotta be something i've hooked up wrong ....i'm still getting familiar with all the sensors and switches
i checked the trailing coil spark right at the coils and it was orange i don't know if its normal but to me that sais weak spark ....so i'm goin to just switch to the coils and plug wires off my GX because i know for sure they worked good
i have 2 other sets but i don't know about them
as for a vacuum leak i'm not 100% sure yet i want to try out the propane trick but the first time the engine ever started there was open vacuum lines nothing intake wise on it and it was running solid till i shut it off.....i was just working on the wiring and tested it and it fired right up
it was shitty out last sunday so i didn't get much done.... i got my new trans crosmember and mount so i can take out my home made tranny mount and try to pull start it too.
would haveing nothing but a down pipe for an exhaust contribut to it running like ***?
does it sound like its running good other than the stalling part in the video????
i have the L1 and T1 going to the front rotor, L2 and T2 to the rear...
its gotta be something i've hooked up wrong ....i'm still getting familiar with all the sensors and switches
i checked the trailing coil spark right at the coils and it was orange i don't know if its normal but to me that sais weak spark ....so i'm goin to just switch to the coils and plug wires off my GX because i know for sure they worked good
i have 2 other sets but i don't know about them
as for a vacuum leak i'm not 100% sure yet i want to try out the propane trick but the first time the engine ever started there was open vacuum lines nothing intake wise on it and it was running solid till i shut it off.....i was just working on the wiring and tested it and it fired right up
it was shitty out last sunday so i didn't get much done.... i got my new trans crosmember and mount so i can take out my home made tranny mount and try to pull start it too.
would haveing nothing but a down pipe for an exhaust contribut to it running like ***?
does it sound like its running good other than the stalling part in the video????
12-07-07, 04:15 PM
#7
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Exhaust should not hurt a thing. Not a problem.
I suggested the pullin of the trail wires to see if the engine was actually running on the lead wires or just on the trail wires.
A trail coil/wires do little for starting and normal running of the engine. The tach won't work if the trail coils are not working and that is about the only bad side to the trails not working
In other words I don't see it being trail coil related in any way at all...........unless you were actually running on just the trail coils and the leads were not working. THEN the engine would run crummy (only trails working).
I really don't have any good ideas about this. Air leaks? Or maybe a injector not working? Sorry, I listen to the audio and can't tell much. In some ways it does not sound that bad, but then again I really can't tell from the audio. Don't get me wrong, the audio on your clip is ok, I just can't tell much listening. My problem.
Do you think it's running on one rotor????? Seems you said that.
I suggested the pullin of the trail wires to see if the engine was actually running on the lead wires or just on the trail wires.
A trail coil/wires do little for starting and normal running of the engine. The tach won't work if the trail coils are not working and that is about the only bad side to the trails not working
In other words I don't see it being trail coil related in any way at all...........unless you were actually running on just the trail coils and the leads were not working. THEN the engine would run crummy (only trails working).
I really don't have any good ideas about this. Air leaks? Or maybe a injector not working? Sorry, I listen to the audio and can't tell much. In some ways it does not sound that bad, but then again I really can't tell from the audio. Don't get me wrong, the audio on your clip is ok, I just can't tell much listening. My problem.
Do you think it's running on one rotor????? Seems you said that.
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12-07-07, 04:44 PM
#8
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not in that the video but it was before just starting it normal......
my leading coils and wires are the ones that came in the car maybe its just a simple thing like a shitty plug wire ....i was just lazy and never changed the wires
thats on a cell phone so the adio is pretty shitty....i have a video from an actual camera i'll post up tomorrow
my leading coils and wires are the ones that came in the car maybe its just a simple thing like a shitty plug wire ....i was just lazy and never changed the wires
thats on a cell phone so the adio is pretty shitty....i have a video from an actual camera i'll post up tomorrow
12-08-07, 05:19 PM
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i'm not 100% sure but i think i've narrowed it down to crappy fuel in the tank and dirty fuel system... i should have took the drain plug out before buti just ended up dumpin in more gas ..... when i've been running it you can smell stale fuel
i got it running again today i pull started it to first get it goin in the morning
when i start it i have to get it over 2000 rpm to keep it running ...it'll idle on its own nice and steady at 2k but if i let the clutch out it doesn't have the power to turn the tranny over and it dies.... i can have it out if i give it some gas to keep it running
i put some fuel line antifreeze and water remover in the tank and some more gas and it was getting better throttle response ( it went from stalling the engine out when i give it gas to sluggishly revving up)
it took a couple mins to work its way through the system but i noticed it was going a bit better i only got to run it for bit after i put that stuff in the tank though (pissin the neighbors off lol)
it would idle at about 1700rpm after i got it running..it'd want to die if i gave it gas till i got it reving over 2k then it would half *** rev up
tomorrow i'm gonna toss a can of seafoam in the tank or do you guys think i should just use some injector cleaner and i'll but more gas in it to try and dilute the crud in it...and spray a can of throttle body cleaner in the intake
i've got it so it'll start with out puttin the pedal to the floor at first ...it fires then i have to flutter the gas pedal to keep it running and get it over 2k
one thing i was wondering about when i got this engine it had the plugs in backwords...tthe trailing in the leading and leadin in the trailing .....has anyone ever heard of doin this or is it just dumb engine importers?
when i look at the spark plugs too the front rotors are black and the rear are pretty clean
i was usin some starting fluid before and i think thats what the black soot on the plugs was from but not 100%
i switched the coils and plug wires from my GX so those i know are all good
the vacuum at 2000rpm idle was a steady 15 in-hg on my after market boost gauge and it was down towards the 20 on the stock boost gauge so i think its safe to say i don't have a vacuum leak
I'm goin kick myself in the *** if after all i've done....i'm havin problems because i was too lazy to drain out the old gas that was in the tank
i got it running again today i pull started it to first get it goin in the morning
when i start it i have to get it over 2000 rpm to keep it running ...it'll idle on its own nice and steady at 2k but if i let the clutch out it doesn't have the power to turn the tranny over and it dies.... i can have it out if i give it some gas to keep it running
i put some fuel line antifreeze and water remover in the tank and some more gas and it was getting better throttle response ( it went from stalling the engine out when i give it gas to sluggishly revving up)
it took a couple mins to work its way through the system but i noticed it was going a bit better i only got to run it for bit after i put that stuff in the tank though (pissin the neighbors off lol)
it would idle at about 1700rpm after i got it running..it'd want to die if i gave it gas till i got it reving over 2k then it would half *** rev up
tomorrow i'm gonna toss a can of seafoam in the tank or do you guys think i should just use some injector cleaner and i'll but more gas in it to try and dilute the crud in it...and spray a can of throttle body cleaner in the intake
i've got it so it'll start with out puttin the pedal to the floor at first ...it fires then i have to flutter the gas pedal to keep it running and get it over 2k
one thing i was wondering about when i got this engine it had the plugs in backwords...tthe trailing in the leading and leadin in the trailing .....has anyone ever heard of doin this or is it just dumb engine importers?
when i look at the spark plugs too the front rotors are black and the rear are pretty clean
i was usin some starting fluid before and i think thats what the black soot on the plugs was from but not 100%
i switched the coils and plug wires from my GX so those i know are all good
the vacuum at 2000rpm idle was a steady 15 in-hg on my after market boost gauge and it was down towards the 20 on the stock boost gauge so i think its safe to say i don't have a vacuum leak
I'm goin kick myself in the *** if after all i've done....i'm havin problems because i was too lazy to drain out the old gas that was in the tank
Last edited by FC3Sdrift; 12-08-07 at 05:31 PM.
12-08-07, 05:34 PM
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i figured i'd do that once i can keep it running with the clutch out lol
this is a built engine ....i never touched anything on the timing ...so it should be set alright.....when its running it runs nice and strong....no missing or backfiring
this is a built engine ....i never touched anything on the timing ...so it should be set alright.....when its running it runs nice and strong....no missing or backfiring
12-10-07, 09:32 AM
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i'm not 100% sure but i think i've narrowed it down to crappy fuel in the tank and dirty fuel system... i should have took the drain plug out before buti just ended up dumpin in more gas ..... when i've been running it you can smell stale fuel
i got it running again today i pull started it to first get it goin in the morning
when i start it i have to get it over 2000 rpm to keep it running ...it'll idle on its own nice and steady at 2k but if i let the clutch out it doesn't have the power to turn the tranny over and it dies.... i can have it out if i give it some gas to keep it running
i put some fuel line antifreeze and water remover in the tank and some more gas and it was getting better throttle response ( it went from stalling the engine out when i give it gas to sluggishly revving up)
it took a couple mins to work its way through the system but i noticed it was going a bit better i only got to run it for bit after i put that stuff in the tank though (pissin the neighbors off lol)
it would idle at about 1700rpm after i got it running..it'd want to die if i gave it gas till i got it reving over 2k then it would half *** rev up
tomorrow i'm gonna toss a can of seafoam in the tank or do you guys think i should just use some injector cleaner and i'll but more gas in it to try and dilute the crud in it...and spray a can of throttle body cleaner in the intake
i've got it so it'll start with out puttin the pedal to the floor at first ...it fires then i have to flutter the gas pedal to keep it running and get it over 2k
one thing i was wondering about when i got this engine it had the plugs in backwords...tthe trailing in the leading and leadin in the trailing .....has anyone ever heard of doin this or is it just dumb engine importers?
when i look at the spark plugs too the front rotors are black and the rear are pretty clean
i was usin some starting fluid before and i think thats what the black soot on the plugs was from but not 100%
i switched the coils and plug wires from my GX so those i know are all good
the vacuum at 2000rpm idle was a steady 15 in-hg on my after market boost gauge and it was down towards the 20 on the stock boost gauge so i think its safe to say i don't have a vacuum leak
I'm goin kick myself in the *** if after all i've done....i'm havin problems because i was too lazy to drain out the old gas that was in the tank
i got it running again today i pull started it to first get it goin in the morning
when i start it i have to get it over 2000 rpm to keep it running ...it'll idle on its own nice and steady at 2k but if i let the clutch out it doesn't have the power to turn the tranny over and it dies.... i can have it out if i give it some gas to keep it running
i put some fuel line antifreeze and water remover in the tank and some more gas and it was getting better throttle response ( it went from stalling the engine out when i give it gas to sluggishly revving up)
it took a couple mins to work its way through the system but i noticed it was going a bit better i only got to run it for bit after i put that stuff in the tank though (pissin the neighbors off lol)
it would idle at about 1700rpm after i got it running..it'd want to die if i gave it gas till i got it reving over 2k then it would half *** rev up
tomorrow i'm gonna toss a can of seafoam in the tank or do you guys think i should just use some injector cleaner and i'll but more gas in it to try and dilute the crud in it...and spray a can of throttle body cleaner in the intake
i've got it so it'll start with out puttin the pedal to the floor at first ...it fires then i have to flutter the gas pedal to keep it running and get it over 2k
one thing i was wondering about when i got this engine it had the plugs in backwords...tthe trailing in the leading and leadin in the trailing .....has anyone ever heard of doin this or is it just dumb engine importers?
when i look at the spark plugs too the front rotors are black and the rear are pretty clean
i was usin some starting fluid before and i think thats what the black soot on the plugs was from but not 100%
i switched the coils and plug wires from my GX so those i know are all good
the vacuum at 2000rpm idle was a steady 15 in-hg on my after market boost gauge and it was down towards the 20 on the stock boost gauge so i think its safe to say i don't have a vacuum leak
I'm goin kick myself in the *** if after all i've done....i'm havin problems because i was too lazy to drain out the old gas that was in the tank
12-13-07, 07:17 PM
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hey, my car is having a very similar problem and i it looks like the "fuel pump resistor relay" is causing it. if we ground out a pin it will idle fine. i'll try to keep you updated dude.
12-14-07, 12:19 AM
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My N/A is having a very similar problem, actually just about the same.. When I start it up, I have to cutoff the fuel, put the gas to the floor, turn fuel back on, then keep the rpms up till it warms up, then it's still sluggish, idling like ****, and smokin a lot...
12-14-07, 08:20 AM
#17
Displacement Replacement
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mine was a noob mistake .....when i was hooking everything back up i hookd the injectors up backwords
hahahaha
figured it out the other day .....its a night and day differance
hahahaha figured it out the other day .....its a night and day differance
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