to RTV or not RTV!?!?! that IS the question!
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Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 4,658
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From: ludlow, pa
im getting ready to assemble my shortblock to a long. i was wondering the do's and dont's of RTV in certain places??
for instance:
the waterpump to water pump housing???
waterpump housing to the block??
yeah or ney??
im going to try and NOT RTV the intake manifolds so that they can be removed and replaced when needed (ya never know)
and 1 more thing. ill be running preimix. is it safe to leave the gear in there for the MOP in the front casing or does it have to be removed before i block it off?
for instance:
the waterpump to water pump housing???
waterpump housing to the block??
yeah or ney??
im going to try and NOT RTV the intake manifolds so that they can be removed and replaced when needed (ya never know)
and 1 more thing. ill be running preimix. is it safe to leave the gear in there for the MOP in the front casing or does it have to be removed before i block it off?
When I redid my cooling system I used high temp waterproof sealer in a thin film on both sides of the paper gasket.
All the mating surfaces had previously been block sanded with 320 wet/dry paper (used wet).
While you have it all apart I'd also recommend you remove the long mounting studs (which you'll have to do if you blocksand anyway), retap the holes (8mm x 1.5, IIRC) and coat the stud threads with antiseize- they live in the worst possible environment (heat, water and galvanic corrosion) and are perilously long and thin to begin with.
All the mating surfaces had previously been block sanded with 320 wet/dry paper (used wet).
While you have it all apart I'd also recommend you remove the long mounting studs (which you'll have to do if you blocksand anyway), retap the holes (8mm x 1.5, IIRC) and coat the stud threads with antiseize- they live in the worst possible environment (heat, water and galvanic corrosion) and are perilously long and thin to begin with.
I've had RTV fail on the waterpump housing three times (once after a few months, then twice in a row), and The Right Stuff fail once (after a few months)...
So I'm gonna have to say no... it takes way too long to replace a waterpump housing gasket to trust it to RTV.
OTOH, the intake manifolds would probably be OK with gaskets cut from gasket paper...
So I'm gonna have to say no... it takes way too long to replace a waterpump housing gasket to trust it to RTV.
OTOH, the intake manifolds would probably be OK with gaskets cut from gasket paper...
Do not use RTV on the oil inlet line of the turbo. You don't want pieces flaking off and going in the turbo.
I don't use RTV on the LIM and UIM because I tend to take them off an on a lot.
I use a gasket and RTV on the waterpump
I left the gear in my front cover and used 2 dimes as spacers so the gear didn't work itself out and jam. I used dimes because they are perfectly fitted.
I don't use RTV on the LIM and UIM because I tend to take them off an on a lot.
I use a gasket and RTV on the waterpump
I left the gear in my front cover and used 2 dimes as spacers so the gear didn't work itself out and jam. I used dimes because they are perfectly fitted.
I wouldn't RTV the water pump at all. Given that you utilize a spacer which replicates the thickness of the stock gasket when its crushed to the proper torque to allow it to seal to the block - I wouldn't feel RTV would give the same level of consistency, let alone the same actual thickness.
But then again I'm a gasket man
But then again I'm a gasket man
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Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 29,798
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From: London, Ontario, Canada
I put a skim coat of RTV on every gasket. Only a VERY thin coat to prevent it from squeezing out the sides. Makes gasket removal later much easier and seals any deep pits.
Most RTV/liquid gasket leaks are caused by over-torquing the bolt and squeezing all of the stuff out...
But if it's a bigger contact face like an oil pan, using a high-quality liquid gasket like The Right Stuff or Hondabond is probably OK.
But if it's a bigger contact face like an oil pan, using a high-quality liquid gasket like The Right Stuff or Hondabond is probably OK.
I took the OMP drive gear off of the drive shaft when I put my motor back together. Just figured one less moving part on the rotating assembly. It's blocked off and I am running premix anyways.
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