I just replaced EVERYTHING clutch related, other than the slave cylinder. That includes the rear main, pilot bearing, pilot bearing seal, flywheel, pressure plate, throwout bearing, and clutch.

One problem i did have is that when i went to bolt on the slave cylinder i had to loosten the bolts on the tranny and pull it away from the engine to bolt it on. It seemed like the cylinder wasnt retracting all the way.

This leads me to think that the cylinder is keeping pressure on the throwout bearing arm and keeping the clutch from making full contact.

Am I on the right track? What else do you think it could be? Thanks guys youve always been helpful.

 

if you replaced everything EXCEPT the slave..... I'd go ahead and replace it too. Seems silly not too. My slave is going out and the pedal will just stick to the floor and not come back.

 

see if i hold mine down to the floor and keep it there for a while, it wont come all the way back up. I need to take my toe and pull the pedal back up to its normal position. I though it could have just been due to not being bleed right.

What do you think guys?

 

You should never have to unbolt/move the tranny rearward to get the slave cylinder in. Sometimes it's easier to open the bleeder screw so the piston and rod can retract enough for you to be able to start the bolts.

Once you have all of the air bled from the clutch, if you still have a pedal that won't return, and you can confirm that there is no fluid leakage from the slave cylinder, then you have a bad clutch master cylinder.

As for the slippage, make sure the slave cylinder pushrod can retract all the way in with the bleeder screw open. If not, there may be some crud buildup that is causing the piston to bind, or the piston is cocked sideways. If the master and slave are original, they're not expensive to just replace them both. A brand new oem clutch master is like $65 from Mazdatrix.

 

I really hope thats the problem. Are there any other things i should check for? I cant really think of anything that ive missed...

 

Read my response to your other post https://www.rx7club.com/showpost.php...8&postcount=25

A bad slave cylinder will NOT cause the clutch to slip, it only disengages the clutch. However if the rod inside the slave cyl. is too long it causes the clutch fork to be pushed on while the clutch pedal is not....thus slippage. Avoid driving the car until the issue is resolved, as you will only glaze over your new clutch

 

Wouldnt that mean the clutch slave was bad if the rod inside of the slave cyl. was too long? I mean i wouldnt it be going all the way back inside if it was good?

 

There is a rod on the master cyl. that hooks to the peddle that can be adjusted. Check and see if it is too long. If it checks out, then just replace the slave cyl. its not very expensive, and if it ruptures you're screwed.

 

so can i adjust where the pedal grabs the clutch with that? because right now my clutch grabs when the pedal is almost all the way out.

 

You've got too much clutch preload.

Adjusting the clutch is a very fine balance between enough preload to make shifting smooth (especially if you've got a spacer on the clutch stopper to shorten the throw), and unloaded enough to avoid 1: burning up your new clutch by letting it constantly slip (too much preload) and 2: forcing you to let the clutch pedal all the way out before the car moves (also too much preload).

You're going to have to adjust it until it's just right... OTOH, it should be easier to do on a brand new clutch since the pedal should be nice and firm, letting you know when it's engaged... the adjustment instructions from the FSM are really vague, especially with a wimpy, old NA clutch.

Also check that the total clutch throw is long enough. And I suggest getting new plastic bump stops for the clutch pedal, on both sides. The old ones are prone to exploding suddenly.

 

On my current 88 n/a car, the slave rod was to long for the turboII swap. I just removed the rod and cut a bolt a 1/2 inch shorter. Reinstalled the slave with the new rod (bolt) and everything worked. Been working for a year now.
When you install a slave cylinder on the trans it should go on easy. After the slave is on you should be able to move the clutch fork back and forth atleast a 1/2 inch or so. If you can not move the clutch fork by hand the rod is to long and will put pressure on the fork and engage the clutch.
chuck

 

A rod that is too long (I didn't realize it was a swap: you need the turbo slave cylinder) has the same symptoms as too much preload...

 

YES! I found my problem! Just like you said, i went out and bought a new turbo Slave cylinder and it worked! I also replaced the clutch master while i was at it. It turns out that the N/A Slave cylinder has the mounts about 3/4 of an inch closer to the bleeder screw. So, just like the two people above me said, the slave cylinder was preloaded on the throwout bearing arm, causing the clutch to not grab all the way!!! problem solved!!! Thanks so much for all your guys help!