Rtek & SAFC
Thread Starter
Rotary Enthusiast
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 881
Likes: 0
From: Lubbock,Tx
I will probably go with the washer trick as I want to eliminate as much boost creep as I can.
Also had a thought on my radiator. It is still stock so was thinking if I didn't need my SAFC then I could sell/trade that for say a koyo radiator.
Mike
Also had a thought on my radiator. It is still stock so was thinking if I didn't need my SAFC then I could sell/trade that for say a koyo radiator.
Mike
Originally Posted by NZConvertible
So what you're saying is you don't really know at all, not even about your own car. Not exactly useful info...
The mild steel washer welded to my wastegate flap is still doing fine after well over a year of daily driving.
The mild steel washer welded to my wastegate flap is still doing fine after well over a year of daily driving.
Thread Starter
Rotary Enthusiast
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 881
Likes: 0
From: Lubbock,Tx
Well, I also know I need a front mount intercooler and thinking that I could use that more than the SAFC if the Rtek 1.7 will control the fuel for what I am doing right now.
Mike
Mike
Thread Starter
Rotary Enthusiast
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 881
Likes: 0
From: Lubbock,Tx
Well, for anybody who had been wondering the same that I was here is info directly off the rtek site.
That is what they sent me when I asked them directly about running the 1.7 and SAFC2 so looks as though the SAFC isn't a must.
Mike
Stage 1.7
Basically Stage 1.5, but for cars with 720cc (or larger) secondary injectors. The Flood Clear option has been added back in as well. For Stage 1.7, the fuel map has been corrected to compensate for larger 720cc secondaries without the need for external fuel control, like an AFC, to keep from running very rich. If you have an AFC, it will no longer have to trick the ECU to compensate for the larger injectors. The AFC can still be used for fine tuning. This also means that you CANNOT run Stage 1.7 in a car with 550cc secondaries or you will run lean. As we have demonstrated above, the less you have to 'trick' the ECU, the better. So with Rtek Stage 1.7, 720 secondaries, and a larger fuel pump, you should have a setup that can push the stock turbo to its safe limit (approximately 12 PSI).
Stage 1.7 is slightly more complicated to install so we require you send in your ECU to us.
Basically Stage 1.5, but for cars with 720cc (or larger) secondary injectors. The Flood Clear option has been added back in as well. For Stage 1.7, the fuel map has been corrected to compensate for larger 720cc secondaries without the need for external fuel control, like an AFC, to keep from running very rich. If you have an AFC, it will no longer have to trick the ECU to compensate for the larger injectors. The AFC can still be used for fine tuning. This also means that you CANNOT run Stage 1.7 in a car with 550cc secondaries or you will run lean. As we have demonstrated above, the less you have to 'trick' the ECU, the better. So with Rtek Stage 1.7, 720 secondaries, and a larger fuel pump, you should have a setup that can push the stock turbo to its safe limit (approximately 12 PSI).
Stage 1.7 is slightly more complicated to install so we require you send in your ECU to us.
Mike
Originally Posted by turbo2ltr
And I assume you are talking from experience in using both the f-con and the Rtek?
Now for some *useful* information.
The 1.7 will handle 12 PSI on the stock turbo with 720 sec and an upgraded FP. Do you need an AFC at this level? Probably not, though with it, you might be able to tune another couple of HP out if it since it runs pretty fat. (Of course use of a Wideband is always recomended to be sure)
If you are at a bolt-on level, and only planning to run 10-11 PSI (and don't plan to ever do more mods/run more boost), Rtek stage 2.0 would probably be overkill. But then again, it's very close if not cheaper price wise than the 1.7/ AFC combo, and it has more flexibility and lots of other features you don't get with the 1.7/AFC combo.
Now, maybe I missed it, but I didn't see anyplace that people were talking about NOT tuning the 2.0. so while it is a valid statement, I don't know how it applies to this conversation.
-Mike
Now for some *useful* information.
The 1.7 will handle 12 PSI on the stock turbo with 720 sec and an upgraded FP. Do you need an AFC at this level? Probably not, though with it, you might be able to tune another couple of HP out if it since it runs pretty fat. (Of course use of a Wideband is always recomended to be sure)
If you are at a bolt-on level, and only planning to run 10-11 PSI (and don't plan to ever do more mods/run more boost), Rtek stage 2.0 would probably be overkill. But then again, it's very close if not cheaper price wise than the 1.7/ AFC combo, and it has more flexibility and lots of other features you don't get with the 1.7/AFC combo.
Now, maybe I missed it, but I didn't see anyplace that people were talking about NOT tuning the 2.0. so while it is a valid statement, I don't know how it applies to this conversation.
-Mike
Yar-Har-Har
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 1,954
Likes: 0
From: Nashville, 37217
Originally Posted by turbo2ltr
And I assume you are talking from experience in using both the f-con and the Rtek?
Now for some *useful* information.
The 1.7 will handle 12 PSI on the stock turbo with 720 sec and an upgraded FP. Do you need an AFC at this level? Probably not, though with it, you might be able to tune another couple of HP out if it since it runs pretty fat. (Of course use of a Wideband is always recomended to be sure)
If you are at a bolt-on level, and only planning to run 10-11 PSI (and don't plan to ever do more mods/run more boost), Rtek stage 2.0 would probably be overkill. But then again, it's very close if not cheaper price wise than the 1.7/ AFC combo, and it has more flexibility and lots of other features you don't get with the 1.7/AFC combo.
Now, maybe I missed it, but I didn't see anyplace that people were talking about NOT tuning the 2.0. so while it is a valid statement, I don't know how it applies to this conversation.
-Mike
Now for some *useful* information.
The 1.7 will handle 12 PSI on the stock turbo with 720 sec and an upgraded FP. Do you need an AFC at this level? Probably not, though with it, you might be able to tune another couple of HP out if it since it runs pretty fat. (Of course use of a Wideband is always recomended to be sure)
If you are at a bolt-on level, and only planning to run 10-11 PSI (and don't plan to ever do more mods/run more boost), Rtek stage 2.0 would probably be overkill. But then again, it's very close if not cheaper price wise than the 1.7/ AFC combo, and it has more flexibility and lots of other features you don't get with the 1.7/AFC combo.
Now, maybe I missed it, but I didn't see anyplace that people were talking about NOT tuning the 2.0. so while it is a valid statement, I don't know how it applies to this conversation.
-Mike
the first piece of useful info in this post ... thank you!
my mods are in sig and i have the 1.7rtek and an safc
the safc is currently untuned, but if you're looking for decent power on the stock turbo/intercooler this is a VERY good setup IMO
the rtek takes care of boost up to around 11 or 12 (i currently hit 10 almost always) and it also adjusting timing which is good ..
the safc will like mike said help you get a few extra HP due to the generic (slightly richer) settings that stock with the 1.7
if you dont plan on going too much further with your power mods for a few years this is a very safe and reliable setup
im very pleased with my performance
fyi, when my TII was tuned (by a previous owner) with an rtek 1.7/safc combo, it ran a little lean around the 3500-4000 range, the safc was adding about 9% at 3900. Since then the safc was removed, and it does studder a little in that range. It also has the 3500 hesitation too, but i thought the info would help. Anybody have similar results?
the 3800rpm hessitation has nothing to do with the rtek chip and more than likely the person was adding alot of fuel around that rpm to hide the fact the car was experiancing that problem. more than likely your problems are faulty grounds at the rear iron and on the bellhousing/firewall. The rtek chip makes the secondary cut on occur at 3500rpm to reduce the problems that people have with leaning out around 3800rpm.
im gonna have to check for codes in the ECU because i have to run it pretty rich past 4500RPM ON the safcII at 10 lbs. maybe i just still have a hell of a vac leak?? it idles good though?? little popping but only once in a while... and now it gets very rich at 3000 untilo the secondaries come on....i dont know whats going on..
it's just so funny how misinformation can cause so much **** toward a certain product. Just go to www.pocketlogger.com to find out what the rtek 2.0 can do. Don't take it from people that heard it from people that heard it from someone some time on a thread a couple months back from someone else. RESEARCH!
Passenger
Posts: n/a
From: So. CaL
this is a cool thread...
i've got the rtek1.7, S5 block, 3"dp, 2.5" catback, stock TMIC, FD fuel pump, S5 turbo (which is claimed to have a T04E compressor wheel? idk for sure)... anyway, i'm rather pleased with it's performance... any clue on what kind of numbers i'm putting down?
in the near future, i'd like to be making more power... around 300 whp, hopefully just by getting a FMIC, slightly larger turbo, and maybe upgrading the rtek to version 1.8 with 720cc primaries as well... (this sound logical?)
when it comes to tuning, i'd say i'm illiterate, and so for now, i'll be staying away from the safc's, fcon, etc etc. and i'll let the rtek do all the dirty work...
i've got the rtek1.7, S5 block, 3"dp, 2.5" catback, stock TMIC, FD fuel pump, S5 turbo (which is claimed to have a T04E compressor wheel? idk for sure)... anyway, i'm rather pleased with it's performance... any clue on what kind of numbers i'm putting down?
in the near future, i'd like to be making more power... around 300 whp, hopefully just by getting a FMIC, slightly larger turbo, and maybe upgrading the rtek to version 1.8 with 720cc primaries as well... (this sound logical?)
when it comes to tuning, i'd say i'm illiterate, and so for now, i'll be staying away from the safc's, fcon, etc etc. and i'll let the rtek do all the dirty work...
all i have to say about the Rtek 2.0 is be very careful with it, the corrections are no where near where they should be (15% max fuel trim +/- iirc).
hopefully they decide to add more adjustablility to it in the near future because that just isn't going to cut it and i have the proof sitting on the floor in my shop.
hopefully they decide to add more adjustablility to it in the near future because that just isn't going to cut it and i have the proof sitting on the floor in my shop.
Originally Posted by Karack
all i have to say about the Rtek 2.0 is be very careful with it, the corrections are no where near where they should be (15% max fuel trim +/- iirc).
hopefully they decide to add more adjustablility to it in the near future because that just isn't going to cut it and i have the proof sitting on the floor in my shop.
hopefully they decide to add more adjustablility to it in the near future because that just isn't going to cut it and i have the proof sitting on the floor in my shop.
not far enough, it is no where near considered a standalone by my standards due to the lack of adjustability. i need to start playing with it but it should allow for more adjustment.
the fault with his setup was probably due to the SAFC countering the corrections, unless it was calibrated so basically i would be careful with the Rtek 2.0 if you still have your SAFC2 installed.
the fault with his setup was probably due to the SAFC countering the corrections, unless it was calibrated so basically i would be careful with the Rtek 2.0 if you still have your SAFC2 installed.
Last edited by RotaryEvolution; Jun 22, 2006 at 03:48 PM.
i figured why i was going lean up top...
im a 6 port turbo and i was told the AFM i bought was a TII...the sticker with the part number was gone so i ASSUMED (DUH) it was for a TII untill i measured the resistence with a multimeter..turns out it was for a N/A....so that problem is fixed...
NOW with the rtek 1.7 it gets VERY RICH from 3K right untill the secondaries kick in...their are at least 3 more people on this board that have the same problem....one of them IS using high omp. rotors like me also..another IS NOT..
so i dunno....
AND, after removing the turbo my washer i used for the wastegate held up fine for a year of 10LBS. + of boost
im a 6 port turbo and i was told the AFM i bought was a TII...the sticker with the part number was gone so i ASSUMED (DUH) it was for a TII untill i measured the resistence with a multimeter..turns out it was for a N/A....so that problem is fixed...
NOW with the rtek 1.7 it gets VERY RICH from 3K right untill the secondaries kick in...their are at least 3 more people on this board that have the same problem....one of them IS using high omp. rotors like me also..another IS NOT..
so i dunno....
AND, after removing the turbo my washer i used for the wastegate held up fine for a year of 10LBS. + of boost
Originally Posted by 88rxn/a
i figured why i was going lean up top...
im a 6 port turbo and i was told the AFM i bought was a TII...the sticker with the part number was gone so i ASSUMED (DUH) it was for a TII untill i measured the resistence with a multimeter..turns out it was for a N/A....so that problem is fixed...
NOW with the rtek 1.7 it gets VERY RICH from 3K right untill the secondaries kick in...their are at least 3 more people on this board that have the same problem....one of them IS using high omp. rotors like me also..another IS NOT..
so i dunno....
AND, after removing the turbo my washer i used for the wastegate held up fine for a year of 10LBS. + of boost
im a 6 port turbo and i was told the AFM i bought was a TII...the sticker with the part number was gone so i ASSUMED (DUH) it was for a TII untill i measured the resistence with a multimeter..turns out it was for a N/A....so that problem is fixed...
NOW with the rtek 1.7 it gets VERY RICH from 3K right untill the secondaries kick in...their are at least 3 more people on this board that have the same problem....one of them IS using high omp. rotors like me also..another IS NOT..
so i dunno....
AND, after removing the turbo my washer i used for the wastegate held up fine for a year of 10LBS. + of boost
an n/a afm should run richer not leaner, you had a different problem than what you thought you had.
If you want to run high boost then do it right. Save some money and sell your stock turbo electronics and buy a standalone. You can even save money by getting a used one. You'll be happier when it puts down more power at lower boost than with a chip and fuel tricks.
an n/a afm should run richer not leaner, you had a different problem than what you thought you had.
but its fine now??
got a code checker and its fine....i actually have the SAFC set a little low and its still rich all the way to 7K
Full Member
Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 198
Likes: 0
From: Rivervale, NJ, USA
I am running the Rtek 1.7 and an SAFC2, and I have not had any reason to complain yet.
The car has RC Engineering 750cc secondaries, a T-04e 60 with a Tial external wastegate running only 9psi, Nippondenso fuel pump, stock topmount IC, RB turbo back and an aggressive street port. Getting about 305hp at the wheels. I will probably get some kind of boost controller and go up to about 11psi at some point.
I've been told on here by knowledgable people that I need to go up to 720cc primaries, but Judge Ito, who built the motor, says it's unnecessary unless I go up to a standalone EMS and that it will cause me flooding nightmares (Of course the Rtek's anti-flood feature helps a lot with that). As it is I seem to be running a little rich generally.
I'm ok with the stock IC, heat soak isn't such a big issue since I'm not doing any drag racing or stoplight warrior stuff. I like the fast spool-up of the thing as it is now, and I don't intend to go for crazy boost/hp levels.
One thing I am thinking of doing is replacing the RB presilencer with a Bonez high-flow cat, I am considering moving out to CA and being able to pass visual inspections is an issue.
My biggest issue right now is traction, I am running the stock AE wheels and beat up old Potenzas. It's kind of like a skateboard with a rocket engine 8-0
Enkei RPF-1's and BFGoodrich g-Force T/A KDW 2's on the way though. I hope that big old Japanese cargo ship is hauling *** across the Pacific...
The car has RC Engineering 750cc secondaries, a T-04e 60 with a Tial external wastegate running only 9psi, Nippondenso fuel pump, stock topmount IC, RB turbo back and an aggressive street port. Getting about 305hp at the wheels. I will probably get some kind of boost controller and go up to about 11psi at some point.
I've been told on here by knowledgable people that I need to go up to 720cc primaries, but Judge Ito, who built the motor, says it's unnecessary unless I go up to a standalone EMS and that it will cause me flooding nightmares (Of course the Rtek's anti-flood feature helps a lot with that). As it is I seem to be running a little rich generally.
I'm ok with the stock IC, heat soak isn't such a big issue since I'm not doing any drag racing or stoplight warrior stuff. I like the fast spool-up of the thing as it is now, and I don't intend to go for crazy boost/hp levels.
One thing I am thinking of doing is replacing the RB presilencer with a Bonez high-flow cat, I am considering moving out to CA and being able to pass visual inspections is an issue.
My biggest issue right now is traction, I am running the stock AE wheels and beat up old Potenzas. It's kind of like a skateboard with a rocket engine 8-0
Enkei RPF-1's and BFGoodrich g-Force T/A KDW 2's on the way though. I hope that big old Japanese cargo ship is hauling *** across the Pacific...
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
