Phantomhp

Hey, not sure if this goes here or the SAFC section but... ( I did search as well)

I have a T2 with a stock turbo but I am in the process of installing 720 sec. with the 550 prim also putting in a walbro 255 high flow pump.

I have a 3" exhaust from turbo back with single exit as well with the some of the emission removed.

My main question is if I wanted to up the boost would I need to have the SAFC2 along with the Rtek or would the rtek work fine without it?

Thanks,
Mike

NZConvertible

Both with work fine with or without the other. The benefit of using both is that smaller corrections on the S-AFC will be required since you're just tuning the mixtures, not compensating for the larger injectors. This means the timing won't be affected nearly as much, which is the main downside of a fuel-only interceptor.

88rxn/a

iTrader: (6)

dont he need the safc if he is gonna turn the boost to say 10-11LBS...?

JWteknix

iTrader: (2)

yeah but supposivly the rtek 2.0 takes care of all timing and fuel changes and should be fine by itself no?

JWteknix

iTrader: (2)

isn't it basicly a stand alone system?

88rxn/a

iTrader: (6)

yep...you use a palm pilot or some sort of hand held to contorl them...
but you dont use the palm pilot for the 1.7 or 1.5

JWteknix

iTrader: (2)

oh ok cause im getting the 2.0 already have the palm

slpin

iTrader: (9)

NO.

NO.

NO.


talking about mis-information... holy ****!

88rxn/a

iTrader: (6)

why wouldnt the 2.0 take care of the timing and fuel?? thats what its for..isnt it???

and why would you not need a safc with a rtek 1.7 boosting 10-11lbs.?
dont you need to adjust the fuel??
so your saying i can put my safc to 0's accros the board and it wont go lean???

Phantomhp

Well I have the 1.7 right now and I am looking to up the boost to around the 10lb point.

I just wasn't sure if the 1.7 would take care of some of the fuel adjustments since it also retards the timing 1 degree for boost over 9lbs.

Just don't want to install something I don't need to have.

Mike

slpin

iTrader: (9)

the rtek 2.0 is also at 0 across the board until you hook up a palm pilot to change the settings.

the 550cc with a upgraded fuel pump... on stock tmic, turbo, etc is really enough for all the power it could make.

Phantomhp

I have thought about selling my Rtek 1.7 and SAFC2 to get the Rek 2.0 since it would basically be combining the two.

Just unsure if I need that kind of managment as right now I am just going for 10-11 psi boost with the upgrades listed in the first post.

Mike

88rxn/a

iTrader: (6)

it is 0's but dont have the stock maps in their and you tune off the stock maps? from 0 which is stock maps to whatever fuel and timing you need?? added you want more than stock boost...**** i dont know..guess im lost..lol
****...

Phantomhp

Yeah, I am at a small confused point.

If I had the 2.0 rtek then it wouldn't be a no brainer for me but since I have the 1.7 I am unsure on the SAFC. I would think that it could be something to use just for fine tuning with the extra boost but unsure if it would be a must.

Mike

slpin

iTrader: (9)

the rtek uses stock map.
it isnt like a f-con where it has a differnet fuel map

if you arent going to tune it, dont expect it to be any differnet just by slapping it on...

you can always get something proven like a f-con, cheaper and will work better....

Phantomhp

I will probably just go ahead and put the 1.7 on along with the SAFC2. Alittle extra work on install but sounds like a better idea to have it than not to.

Mike

Dom_C

I have the 1.5 and run 10+psi. . I also have a walbro 255. . Is your wastegate ported?

Phantomhp

No, I haven't ported the wastegate but was thinking about doing it while the car was down for all these installs.

Mike

Dom_C

definetly port the wastegate. If you ever plan on putting an intake of some form on the car you will neeeeeed to port it. I don't want to see another post in a few months about someone blowing there **** because they didn't port their wastegate. . lol It's just a good idea. goodluck with the car

Phantomhp

Yeah, I have seen the posts as well. Thats why I am trying to do my homework before just throwing stuff on and going.

As far as porting goes I have search and found how-to's and some info but is it good enough to just port the the size of the stock flap or would it be a must to weld a washer or something of the sort onto the flapper for a larger hole?

Thanks,
Mike

88rxn/a

iTrader: (6)

washer might be a bad idea... i did that and i think it melted due to the heat!!!
i cannot prove this on MINE but it has been said that others have had theirs melt or whatever....they say to use a valve form a car......they also say if you port it right you dont need to weld anything on to them!!!
but i have not seen proof of this either...

Phantomhp

I will probably just start with porting to right under the stock flap size as that should be enough from the info I have searched on.

Just unsure but I might sell the SAFC2 and look into getting the Rtek 2.0. Seems like it would just be easier to install and it's all in one unit vs having to wire up a seperate unit.

I would just have to find a cheap pda

Mike

turbo2ltr

iTrader: (1)

And I assume you are talking from experience in using both the f-con and the Rtek?

Now for some *useful* information.

The 1.7 will handle 12 PSI on the stock turbo with 720 sec and an upgraded FP. Do you need an AFC at this level? Probably not, though with it, you might be able to tune another couple of HP out if it since it runs pretty fat. (Of course use of a Wideband is always recomended to be sure)

If you are at a bolt-on level, and only planning to run 10-11 PSI (and don't plan to ever do more mods/run more boost), Rtek stage 2.0 would probably be overkill. But then again, it's very close if not cheaper price wise than the 1.7/ AFC combo, and it has more flexibility and lots of other features you don't get with the 1.7/AFC combo.

Now, maybe I missed it, but I didn't see anyplace that people were talking about NOT tuning the 2.0. so while it is a valid statement, I don't know how it applies to this conversation.

-Mike

Phantomhp

Well right now it's all mainly bolt on's. I honestly am not going for a huge amount of horsepower just wanting a daily driver with a decent amount of power.

Only reason I am asking is because I have both the SAFC and the Rtek 1.7 and if I knew I didn't have to have the SAFC I would save myself the trouble of installing it.

I plan on uping the boost anywhere between 10-12lbs but might go ahead and install the safc since it's there but if the rtek was gonna take care of the fuel then it seemed pointless to have both.

Mike

NZConvertible

So what you're saying is you don't really know at all, not even about your own car. Not exactly useful info...

The mild steel washer welded to my wastegate flap is still doing fine after well over a year of daily driving.