alritzer

I just re-installed my ecu after I had the Rtek1.8 installed at the factory.

Now my S5T2 will not start. Doesn't even seem to be firing. Has anybody ever heard of a bad Rtek chip?

I can't think of anything else. I had the upper intake off to swap out the injectors but nothing else has changed.

Ideas?

RotaryEvolution

iTrader: (30)

removing the UIM isn't something you should rule out as the cause of your no start issue. the injector clips on the TII engines often times get cooked and the pins get pushed back into the connector when you reinstall them. you could also have inadvertantly forgotten to plug the CAS back in, the TPS or the AFM... or a hundred other things.

K-Tune

iTrader: (26)

they normally test the functions of the ecu before they send it back to you... i havn't personally heard of one being bad.

alritzer

Thanks, I'll pull the UIM and double check these things.

Bjeralds

iTrader: (1)

My Rtek 1.5 self install appears to have gone bad. My injector drivers aren't working. It worked fine for the first 3 or so weeks then it started having trouble starting. Then it quit starting all together. Turned out my primary injectors weren't firing. I plugged in my stock chip and injectors work fine now. They said send it back and they'd replace the chip for $10 so I think that's what I'm gonna do.

Bamato

iTrader: (6)

There's always the chance Rtek made a simple mistake. When I did my self install, I had trouble too. Turns out Rtek used the wrong chip (but used the right code) when they burned the chip. Simple mistake, and it passed their testing machine because the software was written correct... They took care of me though, and fixed me right up. Nice thing about them being local for me

RotaryEvolution

iTrader: (30)

that's pretty bad though and not a mistake they should be making often.. alot of people rely on their cars to be done by a certain time and issues like that are very frustruating.

Bjeralds

iTrader: (1)

So true. For instance, once my car started having trouble starting, I had to get jumped almost every night after class. And sometimes it'd take 15 minutes or more of sitting there playing with it to get it started. And there were two occasions on which I had to get towed home. After about two months I finally found my injector drivers were the issue. But sometimes things just happen.

JustJeff

iTrader: (13)

I'm planning on getting an Rtek 1.7 so I'm definitely paying attention to this thread

alritzer

I just found out that when my friend was helping me top off the engine coolant, that he added coolant to the wrong hose. He says there is a good chance that he dumped coolant in the large vac hose toward the back of the motor.

If he did, what do I need to do? Would that keep it from starting? I think I've checked everything I can without removing the UIM.

jjwalker

Uhmmm, yes. Thanfully coolant has rust inhibitors.

Pull the spark plugs and start turning it over.

alritzer

Thanks. I'll pull the plugs and hope for the best.

misterstyx69

iTrader: (142)

#1: keep JugHead away from your Car!
#2.pull the plugs and roll the engine over to get the coolant out of the housings.(that should do it Fairly well)
you should put oil in the housings so it can mix with anything that is in there and Expel it out through either the exhaust or the Plug holes.
Once that is done,you should be able to start up with Fresh Plugs(cleaned plugs).
Btw,I have no problems with the Rtek 1.8.
I have had 2 RTEK 1.8's..also the RTK 2.1.
I am currently on the Second RTEK 2.1
I just can't make my Mind up about ECU's and keep on going back to "old Reliable"!(which is the Rtek based ECU).

RotaryRocket88

iTrader: (7)

Some friend! It's usually a good idea to start with the simple things rather than jumping to the conclusion that your ECU may be bad. Checking for vacuum leaks caused by not replacing intake gaskets, and removing a liter of coolant your friend poured into the engine would probably be good starting points.

Bamato

iTrader: (6)

It was very frustrating actually. I ended up finding a new ECU thinking mine was fried because I did something wrong... And it pushed the time my car was in pieces out an extra few weeks. When I finally decided to call Rtek and see what was up, he had me come down to the shop so he could take a look. I was hoping worse case scenario was that I mucked the chip up and would just buy a replacement. But like I said, after he diagnosed for hours, he figured out the wrong chip was used. It was stand up customer service to be honest. He could have just said I screwed up and sent me on my way. But he took time to help me out. And in the end, I was fully refunded for my trouble. There isn't a doubt in my mind that Rtek handled the situation as best they could, and it was an honest mistake. It's a shame there aren't more vendors out there that have that kind of customer service these days.

hungery4rice

iTrader: (7)

I've been running rteck 1.7 for years with no problem, I'm about to upgrade to the 1.8.

Bamato

iTrader: (6)

Why not make the jump to the 2.x?

alritzer

Before I pull the UIM, I'm getting spark to the plugs. The motor will run on starting fluid until the fluid is used up. The motor backfires through the exhaust occasionally. Timing should be close enough to make it run. Seems like its not getting enough gas.

alritzer

I'm getting spark to the plugs. The motor will run on starting fluid until the fluid is used up. The motor backfires through the exhaust occasionally. I pulled the CAS, checked timing marks and re-installed it so the timing should be close enough to make it run. Seems like its not getting enough gas but I can hear the fuel pump running. I can't find any vacuum hoses not hooked up.
I've been reading old posts for hours. Anybody have any ideas.

ashley

Digi7ech

iTrader: (1)

Check you're TPS. Maybe it's set to WOT/unplugged which will mean fuel cut at starting to the Rtek.

Go through the basics.
Check for Spark and fuel. Are the spark plugs firing if you crank? Are the primary injectors firing if you crank? Are you getting signal from the CAS?