Rtek 1.7 review and more
Rtek 1.7 review and more
I just got the car back after completing a few mods and repairs.
The Rtek 1.7 ECU and GReddy 720cc's are now in and the computer functions exactly as expected (i.e. seamlessly). The transition from primary to secondary is super smooth and the entire range is free of anything that may detract from driveability. No hiccups, no hesitations, and no lumpiness to the powerband. It seems that 5K and up is the best part of the powerband (I assume a characteristic of the streetport).
The next step is to install the profec B spec II boost controller to combat the boost dropoff in the high rpm range...it drops off to about 7psi now. I'm anxious to see what 13psi feels like up top
We also got some other important stuff done including installation of fender liners and a belly pan cover (as mine were all missing). An R-magic radiator panel was also thrown into the mix...to anyone who may be interested in the piece do NOT buy it. The fitment is horrible and the panel required a LOT of trim work. Cut-outs also had to be made for the overflow bottle as the R-magic panel is closed over that area.
The most important work I had done was a fairly involved repair. My fuel lines in the driver's side wheel well area were rotted and damp with fuel. Rather than replacing the bad sections with rubber FI hose, I chose to replace the entire section from the tank to the motor with high pressure aluminized metal line. I have to compliment J&R rotary for the job as it would have been FAR too difficult to do without a lift (we do everything on stands @ Z-1).
Next up is a manual rack and a fresh re-spray on the front bumper/lip as mine has gotten chewed up over the past 2 years. I'll post pics/info when we get her in the shop for that...
The Rtek 1.7 ECU and GReddy 720cc's are now in and the computer functions exactly as expected (i.e. seamlessly). The transition from primary to secondary is super smooth and the entire range is free of anything that may detract from driveability. No hiccups, no hesitations, and no lumpiness to the powerband. It seems that 5K and up is the best part of the powerband (I assume a characteristic of the streetport).
The next step is to install the profec B spec II boost controller to combat the boost dropoff in the high rpm range...it drops off to about 7psi now. I'm anxious to see what 13psi feels like up top

We also got some other important stuff done including installation of fender liners and a belly pan cover (as mine were all missing). An R-magic radiator panel was also thrown into the mix...to anyone who may be interested in the piece do NOT buy it. The fitment is horrible and the panel required a LOT of trim work. Cut-outs also had to be made for the overflow bottle as the R-magic panel is closed over that area.
The most important work I had done was a fairly involved repair. My fuel lines in the driver's side wheel well area were rotted and damp with fuel. Rather than replacing the bad sections with rubber FI hose, I chose to replace the entire section from the tank to the motor with high pressure aluminized metal line. I have to compliment J&R rotary for the job as it would have been FAR too difficult to do without a lift (we do everything on stands @ Z-1).
Next up is a manual rack and a fresh re-spray on the front bumper/lip as mine has gotten chewed up over the past 2 years. I'll post pics/info when we get her in the shop for that...
ive been reading into this mod to. Just waiting to have enough for the rebuild first. but im for sure going to do this after what ive read. really i havent seen any realy bad things about the r-tek chip.
I'm glad you had a good experiance with the rtek chip! It's been a good chip for me as well the only problem is that I have an upgraded turbo and had to go really rich on top for now because I don't want to detonate due to the rtek chip being for stock turbo. All I can say is the transition to secondary cut on is smooth and the real reason I got the chip was for the timing retard built into the chip. However I can't comment on how it worked with a stock turbo and the 720's. I can tell you though that jon88se at 13lbs of boost its going to kick ***! I have mine set at 13psi right now and man does that thing fly! I had a guy try to race me in his riced honda civic the first day I went for a test drive and I blew him away like he was standing still! I love boost
Man i cant wait until i get everything i have going on caught up so i can get this chip and see what's it about. So far i haven't herd a bad thing about this. one guy was saying that the sound of the car changed alittle bit from this, did u also notice this?
i have a friend that had a chip put into his gti and man it really let that car breath felt like another 10hp was released from it. just makes me think if this rtek will do the same for the rotary
i have a friend that had a chip put into his gti and man it really let that car breath felt like another 10hp was released from it. just makes me think if this rtek will do the same for the rotary
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Originally Posted by ninjaracing13
i got the 1.7 and still tend to get some hesitation in the midrange. not sure whats going on with that, the a/f leans out in a few different spots during light to med throttle
how many mods do you need before the 1.7, the car im looking at is bone stock.
what to i need???
3'' exhaust
fmic
slightly larger turbo?
(i have a walbro sitting in my room)
(i have a msd 6a in my room too)
what else?
what to i need???
3'' exhaust
fmic
slightly larger turbo?
(i have a walbro sitting in my room)
(i have a msd 6a in my room too)
what else?
Originally Posted by jon88se
The next step is to install the profec B spec II boost controller to combat the boost dropoff in the high rpm range...it drops off to about 7psi now. I'm anxious to see what 13psi feels like up top 

Originally Posted by jon88se
Unless you've got a wideband, you really don't know what it's doing. Try pulling the plugs, see whats up.
Help! Thanks in advance.............chuckles
i would have to say that if your getting a hesitation ,, what seemed to work well for me( although i dont have the r-tek installed yet is to clean all your grounds. that seems to be the solution to about 70 percent of the hesitation causes
Originally Posted by Chuckles
I cleaned the 550cc for the primaries, bought new 750cc for the secondaries, and installed the 1.7, but still get the 3800 rpm hesitation although now it is at 3300rpm. As a NooB, please explain the 'pull the plugs, see whats up'. Do mean look to see if its running too rich with fuel on the plugs?
Help! Thanks in advance.............chuckles
Help! Thanks in advance.............chuckles
what kind of hesitation is it? is it a big JERK or is it just a slight drop in power?
Originally Posted by jacobcartmill
what kind of hesitation is it? is it a big JERK or is it just a slight drop in power?
Originally Posted by alwayssideways
i would have to say that if your getting a hesitation ,, what seemed to work well for me( although i dont have the r-tek installed yet is to clean all your grounds. that seems to be the solution to about 70 percent of the hesitation causes
Run one from the negative batt. to the alternator adjust bolt (or one of the long screws holding the case together). Run another from the negative batt. to the intake manifold and another to the firewall.
First off the Rtek doesn't get rid of the hesitation problems.
All it does is lower the point in which the injectors turn on to help keep you from maxing them out and going lean.
I have the v1.5 and had a HUGE hesitation. It didn't go away until I grounded the boost sensor to the fender. I saw the status of my ground wire and found that thw wiring itself had gotten old and corroded.
All it does is lower the point in which the injectors turn on to help keep you from maxing them out and going lean.
I have the v1.5 and had a HUGE hesitation. It didn't go away until I grounded the boost sensor to the fender. I saw the status of my ground wire and found that thw wiring itself had gotten old and corroded.
Im gutted that i cant use the rtek chip, I have a N318 and a N340 ecu both S4 JDM, but emailed the shop and they said no, only N332 and N333. so i will have to find an alternative or standalone.
Originally Posted by Digi7ech
First off the Rtek doesn't get rid of the hesitation problems.
All it does is lower the point in which the injectors turn on to help keep you from maxing them out and going lean.
I have the v1.5 and had a HUGE hesitation. It didn't go away until I grounded the boost sensor to the fender. I saw the status of my ground wire and found that thw wiring itself had gotten old and corroded.
All it does is lower the point in which the injectors turn on to help keep you from maxing them out and going lean.
I have the v1.5 and had a HUGE hesitation. It didn't go away until I grounded the boost sensor to the fender. I saw the status of my ground wire and found that thw wiring itself had gotten old and corroded.
Originally Posted by Chuckles
Thanks guys for the feedback. I am going to ground the system and clean up the OEM grounds. Rotary Resurrection has a good writeup on it, so will start there.
hey dont for get to let us kno how you made out with this...
Just got off the phone with digital tuning. Told him that I'd just installed 750cc secondary injectors from RC Eng. and about the hesitation at 3200-3300 RPM. He asked if it sounded lean or rich. I said rich for sure. Asked him about the >720cc secondaries quoted on their website as required. He said the 1.7 map was for 720cc injectors. Obviously, we will have problems with 750cc. Ask him for suggestions. He responded that there were two:
1. Go back to 720cc secondaries
2. Control the air/fuel mixture with something else like a SAFC, etc
I suggested that they revamp the info on the 1.7 to consistently state that the map is for 720cc secondary injectors only. He understood what I was saying.
Sooooooooooo, I am going to buy some Greddy 720cc secondaries. They say they are low impedence (sp?) and I need high impedence with an 88 TII. RX7store said that no one puts resistors on the low imp. 720's., but I find that hard to believe as it will burn them up. Right???
Or are there other 720cc high impedence injectors out there? If so, can you point me in the right direction?
Still going to do all the grounding with #4 wire per above posts, but need some feedback on the 720's, resistor question, and/or other alternative injectors.
Thanks,
Chuckles
1. Go back to 720cc secondaries
2. Control the air/fuel mixture with something else like a SAFC, etc
I suggested that they revamp the info on the 1.7 to consistently state that the map is for 720cc secondary injectors only. He understood what I was saying.
Sooooooooooo, I am going to buy some Greddy 720cc secondaries. They say they are low impedence (sp?) and I need high impedence with an 88 TII. RX7store said that no one puts resistors on the low imp. 720's., but I find that hard to believe as it will burn them up. Right???
Or are there other 720cc high impedence injectors out there? If so, can you point me in the right direction?
Still going to do all the grounding with #4 wire per above posts, but need some feedback on the 720's, resistor question, and/or other alternative injectors.
Thanks,
Chuckles
Last edited by Chuckles; Jan 3, 2005 at 11:35 AM. Reason: more
Well it has been stated through MANY threads and I think even on their site about it being mapped for 720's.
Companies do not make high impedance 720 injectors. Almost all will be low imp.
To make your High impedance harness work with low impedance injectors you will need a 10ohm/10watt resistor per low imp injector.
Without this resistor you will overload the injector and fry it.
You can put the resistor on either of the wires for the injector.
Companies do not make high impedance 720 injectors. Almost all will be low imp.
To make your High impedance harness work with low impedance injectors you will need a 10ohm/10watt resistor per low imp injector.
Without this resistor you will overload the injector and fry it.
You can put the resistor on either of the wires for the injector.


