RPM drop under light throttle
#1
Senior Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (2)
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: KCMO
Posts: 667
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RPM drop under light throttle
88 base model
133k miles
New rebuild with <1 mile, but approximately an hour and a half of run time.
Automatic Transmission.
No mods to speak of, just the basic emissions removal, aws removed, airpump removed, acv removed.
The problem I'm having is that when light throttle is applied, the engine bogs and nearly dies, I have to blip the throttle a few times to keep it running. It seems like it does this more often under light throttle application, and with moderate to heavy throttle, the engine seems to respond somewhat normally, aside from the momentary hesitation as I pass through the "light throttle" range of the pedal.
Initially I thought it may be the TPS. Mind you the TPS was working normally prior to the rebuild,
I tried it at the last known working position - Hesitation, motor tries to die under light throttle application.
I tried it at either extreme (Screw all the way tight, and screw all the way loose) absolutely no change at all.
No vacuum leaks, of this I am sure, I have triple checked, taken the intake off, and verified that every source of vacuum is capped.
Fuel pressure has been verified after fuel filter using a fuel pressure gauge, and fuel pump is getting normal voltage, verified with multimeter.
Timing was set with the forward most mark on the main pulley aligned with the pointer attached to the front cover, and aligned the dot on the CAS gear, with the arrow on the shaft (lol, shaft) and then taking the cover off the CAS and verifying that it did not move during install.
AFM has been checked in this thread, but here are the results
-----------------------------
E2<->Vs=200ohms
E2<->Vref=200ohms
E2<->THA=2700ohms
E1<->FC= Open
E1<->FC
Door Closed = Open
Door Open = 0
E2<->Vs
Door Closed = 200
Door Open = 200
----------------------------------
Any suggestions or other areas to check?
I guess my biggest questions, is could timing cause this? I know that the timing needs to be set with a light, and I haven't been able to set it because my dumb *** keeps leaving my timing light at home when I go down there. I will be taking the timing light tomorrow.
The motor idles fine (I've had it set high at the recommendation of the rotary resurrection webiste) but it will idle at 750rpm smoothly. It's definitely lacking power, and I suppose it will until the motor is broken in, but is getting easier to start each time. It's just when the throttle is applied that I have problems.
Tomorrow will be the last chance to work on it for a week, and we've almost got it driveable. I'd like to be able to bring it home so I don't have to go out there next weekend.
133k miles
New rebuild with <1 mile, but approximately an hour and a half of run time.
Automatic Transmission.
No mods to speak of, just the basic emissions removal, aws removed, airpump removed, acv removed.
The problem I'm having is that when light throttle is applied, the engine bogs and nearly dies, I have to blip the throttle a few times to keep it running. It seems like it does this more often under light throttle application, and with moderate to heavy throttle, the engine seems to respond somewhat normally, aside from the momentary hesitation as I pass through the "light throttle" range of the pedal.
Initially I thought it may be the TPS. Mind you the TPS was working normally prior to the rebuild,
I tried it at the last known working position - Hesitation, motor tries to die under light throttle application.
I tried it at either extreme (Screw all the way tight, and screw all the way loose) absolutely no change at all.
No vacuum leaks, of this I am sure, I have triple checked, taken the intake off, and verified that every source of vacuum is capped.
Fuel pressure has been verified after fuel filter using a fuel pressure gauge, and fuel pump is getting normal voltage, verified with multimeter.
Timing was set with the forward most mark on the main pulley aligned with the pointer attached to the front cover, and aligned the dot on the CAS gear, with the arrow on the shaft (lol, shaft) and then taking the cover off the CAS and verifying that it did not move during install.
AFM has been checked in this thread, but here are the results
-----------------------------
E2<->Vs=200ohms
E2<->Vref=200ohms
E2<->THA=2700ohms
E1<->FC= Open
E1<->FC
Door Closed = Open
Door Open = 0
E2<->Vs
Door Closed = 200
Door Open = 200
----------------------------------
Any suggestions or other areas to check?
I guess my biggest questions, is could timing cause this? I know that the timing needs to be set with a light, and I haven't been able to set it because my dumb *** keeps leaving my timing light at home when I go down there. I will be taking the timing light tomorrow.
The motor idles fine (I've had it set high at the recommendation of the rotary resurrection webiste) but it will idle at 750rpm smoothly. It's definitely lacking power, and I suppose it will until the motor is broken in, but is getting easier to start each time. It's just when the throttle is applied that I have problems.
Tomorrow will be the last chance to work on it for a week, and we've almost got it driveable. I'd like to be able to bring it home so I don't have to go out there next weekend.
#4
Senior Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (2)
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: KCMO
Posts: 667
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Thanks for reassuring me on the timing. I will set it tomorrow with a timing light to be sure it's correct. Great input
I'm still open to other suggestions and input.
#5
Moderator
iTrader: (1)
I wasn't suggesting it was the cause. I just stated that setting it to 1 volt was the proper position and that sticking with the past setting would probably have to be adjusted to bring it back to 1 volt.
As far as your hesitation goes maybe it's a product of low compression resulting from the fresh rebuild.
As far as your hesitation goes maybe it's a product of low compression resulting from the fresh rebuild.
#6
Senior Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (2)
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: KCMO
Posts: 667
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I didn't know that was a symptom of low compression. If that's the case, then I hope it clears up soon. We're going to pick up 5gal of gas tomorrow so we can run it for a couple more hours.
Any idea how long it might take idling before this symptom would go away?
I'll take my compression tester with me tomorrow and get some number also. I can't imagine it's below 90psi a face at this point, but we'll see.
Any idea how long it might take idling before this symptom would go away?
I'll take my compression tester with me tomorrow and get some number also. I can't imagine it's below 90psi a face at this point, but we'll see.
#7
Smells like 2 stroke.
I had a similar problem with my car after I put my engine in. I ruled out the TPS, and it turns out it was the idle air control valve! I unplugged it and voila; problem solved. You near KCMO? PM me some time... I probably live pretty close to ya.
Trending Topics
#8
Senior Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (2)
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: KCMO
Posts: 667
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Ok, so redefining the symptoms.
I wasn't paying as close attention to it before as i thought, and was reciting mostly from memory.
It seems that when idling in neutral i can gently apply the throttle (Just barely give it any gas) and the rpms will slowly climb, but if I give the pedal a good nudge, it bogs and dies.
Going to try disconnecting the BAC tomorrow or sunday to see if it makes any difference, i can hear it going.
I was just reading through some other posts, and saw one mention that he'd had similar problems because he had the wiring to his injectors switched.
I hadn't considered this, but I suppose it is entirely possible. Is there any way to determine which wire goes to which injector when dealing with the primaries?
I wasn't paying as close attention to it before as i thought, and was reciting mostly from memory.
It seems that when idling in neutral i can gently apply the throttle (Just barely give it any gas) and the rpms will slowly climb, but if I give the pedal a good nudge, it bogs and dies.
Going to try disconnecting the BAC tomorrow or sunday to see if it makes any difference, i can hear it going.
I was just reading through some other posts, and saw one mention that he'd had similar problems because he had the wiring to his injectors switched.
I hadn't considered this, but I suppose it is entirely possible. Is there any way to determine which wire goes to which injector when dealing with the primaries?
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
CaptainKRM
2nd Generation Specific (1986-1992)
14
08-26-15 09:52 PM