rotten fuel lines
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rotten fuel lines
I got an 88 GXL. Since i got it the ECM replaced and got it running i found a leaking fuel line. after patching the leaking section more leaks popped up. So im betting every bit of fuel line needs to be changed out. Whats the size of the lines and about how much will i need. Im betting noone makes prebent lines anymore.
#2
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Depending on what your future plans are for the car, changing the factory 5/16" lines to 3/8" would be real cool. for my work's track car we bought alluminum hard line and flared the ends with an fittings. The alluminum is nice and easy to bend, it comes in a roll. It wont be compatable with e85
I wouild consider rockauto.com if you wanted to stay stock, but I never tried checking. If they dont carry it, I doubt anyone else would.
I wouild consider rockauto.com if you wanted to stay stock, but I never tried checking. If they dont carry it, I doubt anyone else would.
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are we talking the rubber line or the hard line? Napa auto or any local shop has both. I picked up hard line in a roll, but was able to clean mine out with other methods.
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i honestly dont know what im doing with it yet. so ill probally just keep it stock size. will i need to drop the diff to change the lines? it looks a bit snug under there.
Ive never bent lines before. what tools should i get when i order the lines
Ive never bent lines before. what tools should i get when i order the lines
#5
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Use EFI hard line rated for at least 200psi. Depending on how you make the connections, you may need tube nuts & tube sleeves, hose clamps, and/or AN fittings. Your hard line material choices are:
- Aluminum: Easy to bend and flare, but vibration causes fatigue over time so it doesn't last all that long. Be really careful not to use the cheap 25psi line.
- Steel: Moderately difficult to bend and flare, but it should last 20 years in a normal environment.
- Stainless steel: Really difficult to bend and flare, but great for areas with salted roads or sea spray.
Use EFI-rated rubber hose like SAE 30R9 or equivalent. Note that "universal" hose is usually SAE 30R6 low-pressure carb hose that is not sufficient for your application, so check the rating before you buy anything.
You will need some tools, such as a vice, tubing cutter, flaring tool, bending tool, deburring tool, etc., depending on how you want to accomplish the project. Search Youtube for "How to bend fuel line" to see what will work best for you.
Easy rule of thumb for fuel line sizing from A. Graham Bell:
1/4" OD (-4 AN) - 165bhp EFI, 110bhp Carb
5/16" OD (-5 AN) - 300bhp EFI, 200bhp Carb
3/8" OD (-6 AN) - 500bhp EFI, 335bhp Carb
1/2" OD (-8 AN) - 1000bhp EFI, 675bhp Carb
- Aluminum: Easy to bend and flare, but vibration causes fatigue over time so it doesn't last all that long. Be really careful not to use the cheap 25psi line.
- Steel: Moderately difficult to bend and flare, but it should last 20 years in a normal environment.
- Stainless steel: Really difficult to bend and flare, but great for areas with salted roads or sea spray.
Use EFI-rated rubber hose like SAE 30R9 or equivalent. Note that "universal" hose is usually SAE 30R6 low-pressure carb hose that is not sufficient for your application, so check the rating before you buy anything.
You will need some tools, such as a vice, tubing cutter, flaring tool, bending tool, deburring tool, etc., depending on how you want to accomplish the project. Search Youtube for "How to bend fuel line" to see what will work best for you.
Easy rule of thumb for fuel line sizing from A. Graham Bell:
1/4" OD (-4 AN) - 165bhp EFI, 110bhp Carb
5/16" OD (-5 AN) - 300bhp EFI, 200bhp Carb
3/8" OD (-6 AN) - 500bhp EFI, 335bhp Carb
1/2" OD (-8 AN) - 1000bhp EFI, 675bhp Carb
#7
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It could be done that way but I don't think it would meet DOT or any racing standards because the rubber lines would be more prone to damage from rocks and other debris. Also, it would require a lot of tie-down points to keep it from drooping, and rubber tubing isn't so great with abrasion points.
Then, there is the money issue. EFI rubber hose is typically about $5/ft, stainless steel hard line is about $3/ft, aluminum EFI fuel line is about $2/ft, and zinc-plated steel hard line is about $1/ft. Prices vary depending on the diameter, how many feet you buy and where you can find a sale, but that is a relative comparison in pricing between the different materials.
Then, there is the money issue. EFI rubber hose is typically about $5/ft, stainless steel hard line is about $3/ft, aluminum EFI fuel line is about $2/ft, and zinc-plated steel hard line is about $1/ft. Prices vary depending on the diameter, how many feet you buy and where you can find a sale, but that is a relative comparison in pricing between the different materials.
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ok..well seeing how i want to autoX this car... that might be a bad idea...
Steel it is. If im going to put it back in the stock holders, about how much would i need? and im think stock is 5/16, is that right?
I also see there are different types of flares, what would i need for this car?
Steel it is. If im going to put it back in the stock holders, about how much would i need? and im think stock is 5/16, is that right?
I also see there are different types of flares, what would i need for this car?
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I got a 25 foot roll and ..meh..tried shaping the lines myself.
I found it was a real snot bag to do especially with the overall length of it.
(almost made me wanna drink..!)
I had the whole subframe out so it wasn't too hard to access stuff,but really if you can salvage as mush old line as you can and tie into it where it is still good,then you may be want to consider that.
Shaping around the bottom of the car at the diff is a little "fun" shall we say.
If cost is an issue then you may want to think about just steel line and a couple feet of EFI hose..and some clamps.
If not then the easier way may be to use some braided line.
I found it was a real snot bag to do especially with the overall length of it.
(almost made me wanna drink..!)
I had the whole subframe out so it wasn't too hard to access stuff,but really if you can salvage as mush old line as you can and tie into it where it is still good,then you may be want to consider that.
Shaping around the bottom of the car at the diff is a little "fun" shall we say.
If cost is an issue then you may want to think about just steel line and a couple feet of EFI hose..and some clamps.
If not then the easier way may be to use some braided line.
#10
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I got a 25 foot roll and ..meh..tried shaping the lines myself.
I found it was a real snot bag to do especially with the overall length of it.
(almost made me wanna drink..!)
I had the whole subframe out so it wasn't too hard to access stuff,but really if you can salvage as mush old line as you can and tie into it where it is still good,then you may be want to consider that.
Shaping around the bottom of the car at the diff is a little "fun" shall we say.
If cost is an issue then you may want to think about just steel line and a couple feet of EFI hose..and some clamps.
If not then the easier way may be to use some braided line.
I found it was a real snot bag to do especially with the overall length of it.
(almost made me wanna drink..!)
I had the whole subframe out so it wasn't too hard to access stuff,but really if you can salvage as mush old line as you can and tie into it where it is still good,then you may be want to consider that.
Shaping around the bottom of the car at the diff is a little "fun" shall we say.
If cost is an issue then you may want to think about just steel line and a couple feet of EFI hose..and some clamps.
If not then the easier way may be to use some braided line.
but was 25 feet enough to do both lines?
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i did a little research. seems like the easiest thing to do is to get a double flaring tool and just do the first step and it should be fine to slip the hose over it and it should be fine.
#17
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i had the same problem with mine, a friend told me there was an rx7 at the pull a part. i lucked up and they were all there and no rust what soever so i swapped them all out fuel and break (if one is that bad then they all are)
you may want to check out your pull-a-part you may just luck out
you may want to check out your pull-a-part you may just luck out
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