Rotor position
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Rotor position
Is there anyway to easily determine the position of the rotor. I had a serious case of carbon lock and then the car sat for about a year. I have now freed the engine and it turns easily. I imagine the apex seals and springs are really gunked up and I would like to position one apex at a time in the straight down position and flood the chamber with carburator cleaner and let it soak. I've disconnected the exhaust from the manifold so all the crap doesn't flow into the cat.
Thanks for any advice.
Jim
Thanks for any advice.
Jim
#4
Engine, Not Motor
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Don't waste your time. Doubtfull that it will run again.
That said, it's pretty easy to look at the apex seals through the exhaust ports with a small mirror. Lots of light helps. Use a wrench to turn the engine.
However, as soon as (or shortly after) you start the engine, it will most likely lose a seal.
That said, it's pretty easy to look at the apex seals through the exhaust ports with a small mirror. Lots of light helps. Use a wrench to turn the engine.
However, as soon as (or shortly after) you start the engine, it will most likely lose a seal.
#6
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Let's see. When the first mark on the pulley is aligned with the pointer.....thats 5 degrees AFTER Top Dead Center.
The next mark is fifteen degrees AFTER top dead center.
So if you eyeball the distance b/t those marks, you should be able to turn the crankshaft around again, but this time instead of stopping on the first mark, stop prior to the first mark by what you figure is five degrees before the first mark. Make sense?
Then remember that for every one third turn of the Rotor, the eccentric shaft turns one full turn. So you pour the oil in at that place you determined to be top dead center, then the next time you just turn the eccentric shaft one full turm to the same place. Do it three times. You might want to turn it to a place, say five degrees BEFORE top dead center for what you want to do.
I hope the above is true. Never done it myself. I buy a car and immediatley rebuild the engine so I don't suffer so much at a latter date.
The next mark is fifteen degrees AFTER top dead center.
So if you eyeball the distance b/t those marks, you should be able to turn the crankshaft around again, but this time instead of stopping on the first mark, stop prior to the first mark by what you figure is five degrees before the first mark. Make sense?
Then remember that for every one third turn of the Rotor, the eccentric shaft turns one full turn. So you pour the oil in at that place you determined to be top dead center, then the next time you just turn the eccentric shaft one full turm to the same place. Do it three times. You might want to turn it to a place, say five degrees BEFORE top dead center for what you want to do.
I hope the above is true. Never done it myself. I buy a car and immediatley rebuild the engine so I don't suffer so much at a latter date.
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